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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 



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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 






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Amy and Marion's Voyage 
Around the World. 



BY 






SARAH B. ADAMS. 




BOSTON: 
D. LOTHROP AND COMPANY, 

FRANKLIN ST., CORNER OP HAWLET. 



7f 7P7. 

■¥■ 



COPYRIGHT BY 

D. LOTHROP & CO. 
1878. 



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CONTENTS 



PAGE. 

CHAPTER I. 

THEY EMBARK 7 

CHAPTER II. 

OFF CAPE HORN 81 

CHAPTER III. 

SAN FRANCISCO . . . .56 

CHAPTER IV. 

CROSSING THE PACIFIC ... 76 

iii. 



IV. CONTENTS. 



PAGE. 

CHAPTER V. , 

HONG KONG . . . . 105 



CHAPTER VI. 

TEIP TO CANTON 138 

CHAPTER VII. 

CANTON 171 

CHAPTER VIII. 

EETUPtN TO HONG KONG . . . 196 

CHAPTER IX. 

SAIGON AND SINGAPORE . . . 219 

CHAPTER X. 

SHANGHAI AND AMOY . . . 257 

CHAPTER XI. 

MACAO — HONG KONG . . . . 286 

CHAPTER XII. 

MANILA 319 



CONTENTS. 



PAGE. 

CHAPTER XIII. 

EXCURSION TO PAGSANJAN . . . 353 



CHAPTER XIV. 

HOMEWARD BOUND .... 373 




AMY AND MARION'S VOYAGE 
AROUND THE WORLD. 



CHAPTER I. 

THEY EMBAKK. 




HE long summer vacation was over, and 

Mr. Clinton's school for young ladies was 

reopened in No. 63 street, Boston, on the 

last Monday of September, 18 — . That day was 

given up to the arrangement of seats and classes 

for the year, and no brain-work was done except 

by the gentleman who was preparing to resume 

his task, his life-work, which might be compared 

to the cultivation of thirty-two pieces of ground ; 

some fertile and ready for the seed that should 
(7) 



8 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

be sown, some naturally good, but choked with 
gaudy, useless weeds, and all different. 

The weight of his responsibilities pressed so 
heavily upon Mr. Clinton as he reorganized his 
old classes, and found out how much knowledge 
the new pupils possessed, that when half-past 
eleven came he was glad to ring Ms bell and 
announce a half-hour recess. 

The hubbub that ensued Was worse than if 
ten beehives had been upset all at once. 

"Where have you been all summer?" "Oh! 
at the Shoals. I had such fun!" "Newport 
is ever so much nicer, don't you think so?" 
"Isn't it dismal to come back here and grind 
all winter ? " Questions and answers grew more 
and more emphatic, until one question seemed 
to prevail among a group of girls who were 
perched upon their desks, consuming cookies 
and doughnuts. "Where is Marion Gilmer? 
Isn't she coming back this year ? " 

"Marion Gilmer is down stairs,, and says 
she has only come to get her books and say 



They Embark. 9 

good-bye," said one who had come from the 
lower entry. A cry of disapprobation arose, 
and the said Marion entered in time to be 
complimented by it. 

"Not coming here to school any more, 
Marion! Why not? You're not going to 
Miss Leighton's instead, you naughty girl ? " 

"Friends, do be quiet," said the favorite 
Marion. "Let me announce my solemn news. 
No more Virgil for me ! Farewell to composi- 
tions upon the relation of the universe to the 
soul of man ! I am going around the world in 
a great ship. I start next week for Cape Horn 
and the Antarctic Zone." 

Her bewildered hearers could only entreat for 
further particulars. 

"Why, the whole story is this: My cousin, 
Amy Roslyn, has a sailor brother, captain of 
the 'Lyra,' who is going to take her on his 
next voyage, and he asked Papa to let me go 
also, to keep her from being homesick. Papa 
meditated upon the subject, and wisely concluded 



10 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

that I might gain from the heathen world some 
education that would not be found in this 
House of Instruction and Correction, so he 
consented. Gussie Knowles knows all about 
it, for she is Amy's friend as well as mine, but 
I told her not to breathe a word of it to any 
of you, because I wanted the fun of coming 
in and making you stare." And Marion drew 
a long breath, while her face beaming with 
satisfaction implied that the fun had exceeded 
all her hopes. 

Everybody congratulated and envied her, 
and commented variously upon Marion's great 
expectations. 

"A voyage round Cape Horn to San Fran- 
cisco, then to China and the East Indies ! How 
romantic!" said Clara Hayes. "Won't you 
write to us, Marion? " 

" Oh, dear girls ! it would keep me writing 
the whole time to correspond with all of you ; 
but Gussie Knowles will get long journal letters 
from us both, and she will read them to you; 



They Embark. 11 

but, oh ! there's the bell, and I have not taken 
leave of Mr. Clinton. Good-bye, dear creatures." 
And Marion, escaping from overwhelming hugs, 
shook hands with her kind teacher, and left 
the halls of learning behind her with no regrets, 
but bright anticipations of the future. 

Marion Gilmer and her cousin Amy Roslyn, 
were well adapted for a long voyage in each 
other's company, for there was a "harmonious 
difference" of character between them that 
is apt to form the basis of a true friendship; 
each admiring and depending upon the qualities 
in the other lacking in herself. Their letters 
and journals will give a better idea of each 
one, perhaps, than could any formal description ; 
and a word sketch of Marion's round, merry 
face, short, solid figure, changeable gray eyes ; 
of Amy's slender, graceful form, and sweet, 
pale face lighted up by brown eyes that could 
sparkle brilliantly with fun, or grow soft and 
hazy with musing, will give the outside view 
of these two girls who were about to enter 



12 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

together upon a chapter of their lives that was 
to be entirely different from any preceding 
one. 

Their delight in the prospect of a voyage 
to strange, eastern lands nearly turned their 
heads during the weeks of preparation. With 
the assistance of sober-minded and practical 
friends, however, they managed to accomplish 
the necessary shopping and packing, and at last 
came a day when these helpful ones had per- 
formed their last offices for the young travellers, 
and were wandering mournfully about their 
deserted rooms, while in the clear October 
weather, with hopes as gay and bright as the 
autumn leaves, the girls went out to sea. 

Ship " Lye A," Atlantic Ocean, 
October 30th. 
I begin to-day, dear old Gussie, my part of 
the joint journal-letter that Amy and I threat- 
ened to inflict upon you, for she says I shall 
describe the horrors of our first three days' 
experience in a far more graphic and touching 



They Embark. 13 

manner than she ever could, and I do not 
consider it worth while to contradict her. 

But first, I want you to realize how blissful 
we are at this present moment. Storms, Gulf 
Stream, and sea-sickness are things of the past ; 
their memory only increases our comfort, for 
we are sailing through smooth blue waters; 
my ink-bottle stands safely on the wooden 
skylight that serves me as a writing table, 
and you may judge from that how calm the 
"wild Atlantic" is to-day. 

Amy is stretched out in a great chair under 
the shadow of the " mizzen mast," for we are 
on "the house," (the roof of our large cabin 
which, is sixty feet long, and the favorite resort 
of passengers), and every now and then she 
turns from her rapturous gazing at the quiet 
sea to take a bite of an apple, and exclaim: 
" Marion, this is truly bliss ! This is worth that 
awful Gulf Stream ! " Now I must really begin 
to tell you what our experience has been 
thus far. 



14 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

The " Lyra " went out of New York harbor 
with a rousing breeze, and we were ready to 
scream with joy until we got near the Highlands 
of Navesink, for everything seemed perfect as 
possible, — our ship was such a fine one, — and 
the idea of our voyage grew more romantic 
with every mile, — or knot, for do let us be 
nautical in our terms. 

Finally, Amy said: "Marion, I'm going 
down into the cabin to get another apple." 
"You will never come up if you do," was my 
solemn warning,; but the rash girl departed, 
and when I reluctantly went in search of her, 
some time after, there she was, flat on her back 
in her berth. The first sight of her aroused 
within me feelings which, as Mark Twain says, 
were " peculiar, but not entertaining," but I put 
them down with stern determination, and went 
to the dinner-table, where the captain received 
me with commendations. 

"You are a brave girl, Marion, and will 
make a fine sailor. Have some stewed onions ? " 



They Embark. 15 

(advancing a spoonful of what looked like 
greasy seaweed). A silent shake of the head 
was the only answer on the part of the " brave 
girl and fine sailor." " Miss Gilmer looks pale," 
remarked Mr. Duncan, the mate, with a mis- 
chievous glance. " Nonsense ! she isn 't going 
to be sick. Why, Marion, my girl ! " But the 
heroic young female was departing with more 
speed than dignity, and burst into her state- 
room, crying to the prostrate sufferer in the 
lower berth: "Oh! Amy, I am sick! Oh! 
is n't it dreadful ! What shall I do ? " " Climb 
up into your berth, and lie down flat ; the 
motion is growing worse and worse." So all 
that day there were two doleful beings in those 
narrow quarters, trying to comfort each other. 
The stewardess is Irish, and of all the funny 
women she might take the prize. Every little 
while she would enter, and balancing herself 
against the wall would observe: "Well, young 
ladies! I've come to see how ye was gettin' 
along," and then would come some anecdote 



16 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

of captains' wives and daughters whom she 
had attended through the most unheard of 
experiences, until, sick as we were, we had 
to laugh. The captain heard us, and shouted : 
" Well ! I never heard seasick passengers make 
such cheerful sounds before. Girls, come out 
of that room. You are only — i making believe,' 
I know." 

There was not much laughter in the " Lyra's " 
cabin on the following day, you may be assured, 
for we had a lively experience of the Gulf 
Stream under the influence of "a stiff nor'- 
easter " and enough queer things happened to 
amuse any girls not ill and half-scared as we 
were. I made a desperate venture, and in some 
ungraceful manner succeeded in reaching one 
of the cabin sofas (of which there are two in 
opposite alcoves), and clutching the mahogany 
ridge at the top to keep from sliding off, I 
lay all through that day, while the ship rolled 
in a way that any decent vessel would be 
ashamed of, except in the Gulf Stream. 



They Embark. 17 

Now and then a general crash enlivened 
me. I saw through the door that leads to the 
"forward cabin," our dining-room, various strange 
performances, such as a sugar barrel prome- 
nading the floor, and the stewardess falling 
down with a dish of pickles that bounced far 
and wide. Amy's state-room door opened, and 
a dishevelled" maiden looked forth, longing to 
gain the opposite sofa, but fearing to attempt 
the passage across the cabin, which slanted like 
Somerset street hill, first in one direction, then 
in the other. She made a rush at last, and 
was thrown violently upon the sofa, from which 
soon after she was forcibly impelled, and fell 
with a startling thump upon the cabin floor 
as an unusually big wave struck the ship. At 
the moment of Amy's fall, everything that 
could follow her example did so ; chairs upset, 
books tumbled out of the captain's shelf, and 
I was edified to behold Doddridge's " Rise and 
Progress" coasting across the cabin, pursued 



18 Amy and Mariorfs Voyage, 

by an empty bottle and half-a-dozen apples 
from a plate on the sideboard. 

T was not sick enough to want to be thrown 
into the sea, though I have a lurking suspicion 
that such was the case with poor Amy, but 
I felt very uncomfortably, and when a tall, 
shaggy-coated figure stood before me, and a 
cheery voice said : " Miss Gilmer, the captain 
says you must come on deck, for you are not 
sick enough to stay down here, and he won't 
allow it," I groaned in reply : " I can't think 
of such a thing." 

Our first officer is a man of determination, 
and he at last succeeded in getting me on deck, 
where I sat on a wooden thing they call " the 
bumpkin," and held on for dear life to a 
" belaying pin," while I saw the great, green 
billows towering behind us and breaking in 
showers of spray; the vessel all the while 
prancing up and down like a rocking-horse. 
It was glorious, and I began to revive as the 



They Embark. 19 

strong salt wind blew in my face, nearly taking 
my breath away. 

Amy was longer than I in recovering, but 
now we are in a region of pleasant, moderate 
winds, where we can begin to enjoy sea-life 
in earnest. - She tells me I have written enough 
for the present, and must let her take up 
the pen. 

November 29£A. 

Dear Gussie: I thought I would not 
continue this narrative till I had gained a more 
settled experience of sea-life, and now we are 
as much at home on this noble vessel as if we 
had sailed in her for months. I wish you could 
look in upon us and see how comfortable we 
are. Marion's account of our seasick days may 
lead you to think that we share one state-room, 
but it was only so at first, because " misery loves 
company." The captain has fitted up a separate 
room for her, and has taken away the upper 
- berth from my room to give me plenty of light 
and air. The carpenter made me a set of 



20 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

shelves for books, and one small shelf for a 
kind of dressing-table is fastened to the wall 
under my looking-glass. I have pictures of 
all kinds adorning my walls, and some of the 
ferns that you and I gathered and pressed last 
summer, droop gracefully above them. 

Our parlor, or " after-cabin," is quite a large, 
pleasant room, lighted by two windows and 
a skylight. Its walls are of a dark, polished 
mahogany ; and a cabinet-organ, marble-topped 
centre-table, velvet sofas, easy chairs, and a 
Brussels carpet (very much faded), give it 
a homelike aspect. There are cupboards in the 
wall where we keep our work and boxes of 
sewing materials. Spare state-rooms are places 
of general stowage, and the captain has a little 
office leading from the parlor cabin, which is 
furnished with a great hair-cloth sofa, a desk, 
and many nautical instruments. 

Thus you see, dear, that we can be very 
comfortable at sea, and I do not believe your 
imagination ever pictured such a view of cosi- 



They Embark. 21 

ness on board of a ship as our cabin presents 
on a rainy evening when the swinging lamp 
sheds a soft light upon the captain in his 
reclining chair, listening to Amy playing on the 
organi or to Marion reading aloud, while the 
pattering rain on the skylight and the dash of 
waves against the vessel's side, make us exclaim 
occasionally : " How comfortable we are ! Where 
are the anticipated hardships of a sea-life?" 
My brother smiles significantly, as he replies : 
" They will come in time. We are not round 
the Horn, or near it yet." 

We seldom have to spend an evening in 
the cabin, for moonlight or starlight nights are 
far more frequent than rainy ones, and we sit 
upon the house hearing the sailors' songs, when, 
at half-past seven the order " pump ship " is 
given, or we watch the stars, or the phospho- 
rescence in our wake, or promenade the deck 
together. I must confess, though, that our chief 
occupation on pleasant evenings is to converse 
with the first and second mates, whichever hap- 



22 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

pens to be " standing his watch " on deck, and 
you will doubtless hear enough of these worthies 
before our voyage is ended, to be glad of a 
description of their characteristics now, before 
I proceed with my narration. 

Alexander Duncan, the first mate, is a 
very tall, broad-shouldered Scotchman, with a 
pleasant, sun-burnt face, whose frank blue eyes 
make you sure he is a person to be* trusted. He 
is not very Scotch in his ways or accent, — 
rather Western, perhaps, for nearly all his life 
has been spent in Iowa when not at sea, and 
though he does not appear to have had the best 
educational and social advantages, he is so 
truly one of nature's noblemen, that a lack of 
external polish might be readily pardoned 
him. 

Our second officer, Ned Fordyce, is a much 
more stylish individual than Mr. Duncan. He 
is the son of a wealthy Philadelphia merchant. 
Having completed his junior year at college 
he was obliged to give up study on account 



They Embark. 23 

of severe headaches ; therefore, as the sea had 
been his passion from boyhood, he chose a 
sailor's life, and rapidly worked his way up from 
the lowest position of a seaman to that which 
he now occupies. He is full of fun, and so 
entertaining that I wish we could have him at 
our table instead of the graver first mate ; but 
it is the custom for the latter dignitary to eat 
with the captain, and there must always be one 
mate on deck to look after the ship. 

Of our dear captain you need no description, 
for you know almost as well as I do, that no 
sister was ever blessed with a better brother 
than he has been to me, although during my 
childhood our intercourse was only occasional, 
because of his roving life. It is a great pleasure 
now to be with him all the time, gaining a more 
intimate friendship with the elder brother to 
whom my childish eyes used to look up as to 
the personification of everything noble and 
manly. I shall endeavor to let Marion do all 
the affectionate raving about him after this, for 



24 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

it will not sound so badly from a cousin as 
from his own sister. 

Now the warm weather has come. We 
crossed the equator on the twenty-second of 
this month, and are in a region of pleasant 
breezes, which bear us gently on through the 
bluest water, specked here and there with 
foam. An awning over the deck where we 
sit makes a pleasant shade, and I am so lazy 
that to swing in a hammock and gaze at the 
fleecy clouds which float above the far horizon, 
is all that I am inclined to do a great part of 
the time, while my energetic cousin, whose 
faculties become stronger as the weather grows 
hotter, studies Latin with the captain, knits 
worsted garments for all her infant relatives (to 
be sent by mail from California when we arrive 
there), and reads to me when her eyes will 
allow it. The light on the water seems to affect 
them disagreeably, so she can not read or study 
long at a time ; but I read to her generally, and 
she manages to entertain herself with something. 



They Embark. 25 

There is one hour of the clay, Gnssie, when 
I give my mental powers some work to do, 
whether they like it or not, — and that is from 
nine to ten A.M., at which time I take my seat 
at the table in our dining-room, and instruct 
Bob, the cabin-boy, in spelling, grammar, writing, 
and arithmetic. You know I always had a 
penchant for teaching, and if I should ever find 
it a necessity to earn my own living, that 
employment would be my choice. I find much 
enjoyment in this occupation, therefore, except 
on these warm, dreamy days, when it is a little 
hard for me to apply myself readily to 
anything. 

I suppose you wondered how we kept 
Thanksgiving-day at sea. It was a very delight- 
ful day to me, for I never had more reason 
for thanksgiving. After long and frequent 
separations from my brother, to be sailing 
around the world with him and dear Marion 
seemed more like a dream of joy than a 
reality. 



26 Amy and MariovC* Voyage. 

Our steward did himself credit by a dinner 
that was worthy of the day. Among the courses 
appeared salmon and green peas (canned), 
which, with the warm air, might have led us 
to think we were celebrating the fourth of July 
rather than the last Thursday in November. 
That evening was one of the most enchanting 
I ever knew. The golden and rosy clouds in 
the west were hardly faded when the full moon 
in the east threw a sheen over everything. Its 
light was not spectral, as we see it in our 
northern latitude, but something between golden 
and silvery, and it made the sails almost daz- 
zling, while the intricate ropes were reflected 
on them with delicate tracery. We could see 
to read with the greatest ease. Being becalmed, 
there was scarcely a ripple on the sea, and we 
could discern a nautilus floating quietly along 
in the moonbeam's track, " trimming its lateen 
sail." All was breathless, seemingly, while the 
voices of the men came like the far-off sounds 
of a village when the day's work is ended. The 



They Emharh. 27 

night was what one might call intoxicating, and 
a wild ecstasy took possession of me, making 
me feel like doing almost anything extraordi- 
nary ; so, to Marion's horror, I climbed out on 
the " channels " and sat there looking down into 
the water. 

I do not know if I can make yon understand 
what the channels are, but suffice it to say they 
look somewhat like shelves fastened to the 
outside of the ship, and to get out on them was 
a rash act more suited to Marion than to the 
quiet Amy. I took advantage of my brother 
being in the cabin in order to perform this great 
feat, but was interrupted in my pleasure by the 
alarmed Mr. Duncan who sprang forward, and 
begged " Miss Eoslyn " to let him help her out 
of her dangerous position. 

The sailors on the main deck were indulging 
in various sports, such as "hunt the slipper," 
or trotting out an imaginary horse, — one of 
the men on all fours, covered with sail-cloth, 
and ridden by another, who belabored his sides 



28 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

unmercifully. The stentorian voice of the 
boatswain would occasionally rise above the 
tumult in the refrain of some good Methodist 
hymn, for this man, a strong, fine-looking fellow, 
and one of the jolliest of the crew, is much 
addicted to hymn-singing, and sits in his room 
during many of his spare hours with his feet 
up on his blue chest, a pipe in one hand and a 
Wesleyan collection of hymns in the other, 
making melody that sadly interferes with the 
slumbers of those sailors who are taking their 
"watch below." 

On Sundays every man in the ship (except 
the one at the wheel and the officer who is on 
duty), comes into the dining-room to attend the 
morning service, and an interesting sight it is, 
that row of men and boys, some rough, hard- 
looking characters, some with very intelligent 
faces, — with scarcely an exception, giving ear- 
nest, respectful attention to their young captain 
as he stands before them to read and explain 
the Word of God. Marion and I have to start 



They Embark. 29 

the tunes, and I wish you could hear those 
men join in with all the strength of twenty-five 
pairs of lungs ! I haye always disliked the 
operatic singing by quartettes in many of our 
churches, as a mockery of the minister's words, 
when he rises to say "Let us praise God by 
singing the one hundred fifty-second hymn;" 
but when our sailors burst out with " I'm glad 
salvation's free," as if they know it is, and are 
glad of it, I think it comes nearer the right 
kind of worship. 

We have passed many vessels since we left 
New York, and when they come near enough 
their captains carry on conversation with our 
captain by means of signal flags which are 
numbered. For example, a vessel sends up 
six, two, two, four, and by referring to our 
signal-book we see that those numbers indicate, 
"The Sovereign of the Seas;" then we tell 
them the name of this ship, and a great deal 
of information respecting the ports to which 
they are bound; from what port, how many 



30 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

days out, with what cargo, etc., is signalled 
between the ocean wayfarers, sometimes ending 
with the numbers six, three, eight, nine, from 
one vessel, that is, "Wish you a pleasant 
voyage ; " and five, seven, eight, three, in reply, 
meaning " Many thanks." 

Our great ensign was torn soon after we left 
New York, and I generously offered to devote 
my time and strength to its repairing, not 
realizing its size, for it doesn't look so mon- 
strous when floating on the breeze far above 
us ; but they all laughed when they saw me on 
a low stool with yards of red, white and blue 
bunting spreading from my lap far over the 
cabin floor, while I toiled with needle and 
thimble, feeling that I had undertaken quite 
a serious piece of business ; and Marion, for a 
wonder in a lazy fit lay on the sofa watching 
my progress and declaring that she wouldn't 
take so many stitches to save every flag in the 
United States from ruin. 




CHAPTER II. 




OFF CAPE HOEN. 
MARION'S STORY. 

December 8th. 

E are beginning to have cold weather 
now, although we still sit on deck 
nearly all the time, but in a few days the cabin 
will be our abiding place when we are engaged 
in our regular employments. Do you wish to 
hear what some of mine are ? An account of 
yesterday's doings will give you a fair specimen 
of the way in which many of my days have 
been spent. 

Directly after breakfast I burdened myself 
with the first volume of Prescott's " Ferdinand 
and Isabella," and swallowed my daily dose 
of history ; then with my Latin books I went 
up to sit on the house and freeze my mortal 

(31) 



32 Amy and Marioris Voyage. 

frame in the sharp wind, while my mental 
powers combated with Virgil and the dic- 
tionary. I hope by the time I see my native 
shores to know more of Latin than I did in 
the intelligere non possum days, — which our 
schoolmate rendered " the possum is not an 
intelligent animal" — if the "pluck" which 
Mr. Fordyce compliments (after seeing me pore 
over my books with a visage like a thunder 
cloud,) will only hold out. 

When that labor was over, finding that 
Arthur and Amy had left the cabin I went 
down to indulge in the rare opportunity of 
practising on the organ without any one to be 
agonized by the wails my uncultivated genius 
draws out of that small instrument. It isn't 
too sweet-toned at any time, and being used by 
mice as a boarding-house since it left Mason 
& Hamlin's Organ Rooms, has not improved its 
natural gifts. When I begin to blow I am not 
at all unlikely to see a long-tailed boarder rush 
out from under my feet; but I am not to be 



Off Cape Horn. 33 

deterred by mice from learning to play my 
favorite tune, (the one in "Hymns Ancient 
and Modern," set to "Jerusalem the Golden"). 
Cousin Arthur comes in and watches my 
struggles with the keys and the bellows, pats 
me on the shoulder with the encouraging 
remark: " You'll learn some time, Breezie, don't 
despair;" but compassion for his and Amy's 
musical ears soon causes me to stop. 

After dinner I allow myself the relaxation 
of reading Cooper's "Water Witch," or we 
gather in the captain's office, he reading aloud 
to us while we sew or draw. The evenings are 
growing very long as we come near the Cape, 
for December is midsummer with the Patago- 
nians, and in two weeks I 'm afraid it won't 
be dark enough for us to wish to go to bed 
all night long. 

December 20th. 

I am writing under very comical difficulties 
to-day, my dear, and does it not seem as if all 
the worst features of sea-life fall to my share 



34 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

in writing to you, leaving Amy only the 
descriptions of peaceful days and moonlight 
nights? The existing difficulties are that the 
low easy chair in which I have established 
myself takes an occasional promenade of about 
four feet from the table, which is fastened by 
iron staples to the floor, and has my inkstand 
tied upon it in a way that no one but our 
Captain Arthur would have thought of. There, 
now ! a great roll of the ship ! I hastily take 
a penful of ink and slide off in my chair, 
writing all the time ; the next roll will bring 
me back to the table in time to dip my pen 
into the ink again. 

A penetrating cold and dampness prevails, 
and the rolling and pitching will increase I 
suppose, till we are safely past Cape Horn. 
We have the funniest little stove imaginable 
in our parlor ; eighteen inches in height, and 
eight in width, by actual measurement. There 
was an uproar of laughter from the passen- 
gers when the captain brought it out of 



Off Cape Horn. 35 

obscurity to be our comfort in this cold 
region, and we soon found that we needn't 
expect much comfort from it, for it will not 
keep a fire alive more than ten minutes at a 
time, if not attended to as often as that, and 
the flame goes out like a flash on the slightest 
provocation. Now it is an impossibility for 
any mortal to remember every ten minutes to 
throw in two lumps of coal ; consequently, we 
have n't attempted often to keep it up, and 
when the after-cabin becomes very chilly, we 
go into the dining-room and thaw by a generous 
stove that gives all the heat any frigid person 
could want. There we girls take no end of 
comfort, sitting cosily by the stove with our 
sewing, or writing by the table. One of the 
officers generally comes in when we are there 
(the one whose turn it happens to be to take 
his watch below), and spends an hour in 
playing chess with Amy, or I read aloud from 
a volume of Dickens while he sews. " While 
he sews ! " I seem to hear you repeat in 



36 Amy and Mariorfs Voyage, 

wonder. Yes ! Mr. Duncan brings an old raisin 
box, wherein are collected divers implements 
of needle-work, and sits down with the utmost 
gravity to darn stockings, or put in patches, 
looking not a bit less manly than when he 
stands on deck to order the sailors, though 
I thought I should never stop laughing when I 
first saw him at that employment. The mother 
and sisters of Mr. Fordyce have fitted him out 
in style with a handsome sewing-case, but he 
doesn't handle his needle so skilfully as Mr. 
Duncan does, not having been obliged for so 
many years to take Ms own stitches. Do you 
think I am hard-hearted to let these poor fellows 
do their own darning and patching? Well, I 
do sew for them sometimes, and Mr. Duncan, 
not being used to have girls help him in these 
trifles, is so grateful when I propose it that I 
would sew for him oftener, but the other youth 
is rather cool and easy in his ways, — one of 
the lords of creation who consider it perfectly 
right and natural to have us wait on them, 



Off Cape Horn. 37 

and I don't think it is worth while to make 
my services too common. 

We are carrying out some jolly plans for 
Christmas. Amy called me into her state-room 
a few days ago and shut the door with an air 
of mystery. She then proposed that we should 
make Christmas presents for the three young 
men, and hang up their stockings on Christmas 
Eve, filled with whatever we could manufacture 
within a fortnight. Her capacious rag-bag 
furnishes stores of silk and ribbon for neckties, 
and we make many other things of which I will 
give you a list when they are completed. Of 
course we have to retire from public life while 
we are working, and for an hour or two every 
day I go into Amy's room and sit on the floor 
with her, planning, sewing and having lots of 
fun, greatly to the captain's mystification. He 
declares we are plotting something, perhaps a 
mutiny against him because he doesn't fully 
gratify our incessant craving for olives and 
sardines. 



38 Amy and MariorCs Voyage. 

On the ninth of this month we passed the 
mouth of the Rio de la Plata, and encountered 
a severe storm with thunder and lightning. I 
woke up in the night hearing the deep rumble 
of thunder, but saw no lightning, for some one 
had thoughtfully closed the heavy wooden 
shutter outside my window. A stream of 
water was trickling down the wall into my 
berth from a leaky place in the deck overhead, 
and at first I was rather non-plussed by such 
a novel experience ; then remembering that my 
mattress was too narrow for my berth, and 
consequently there was a nice little gutter for 
the rain to flow into, I resigned myself to 
slumber, trusting that the water would not 
collect fast enough to float me out into the 
cabin before morning. 

That storm was the introduction to a change 
in our circumstances and mode of life. Cool, 
bracing weather, and bean-bag exercises, and 
brisk walks on deck take the place of quiet 
hours under our awning, yet sometimes we 



Off Cape Horn. 39 

can sit up on the house, or on the "bitts" 
(wooden posts near the wheel) with warm 
wraps, watching the ocean's increased excite- 
ment as it comes near the ends of the earth. 
At these times a verse of Celia Thaxter's 
always comes into my head : 

" Those splendid breakers ! How they rushed, 
All emerald green and flashing white, 
Tumultuous in the morning sun 

With cheer and sparkle, and delight ! '» 

December 29th. 

I 've such things to tell you now, Gussie ! 
Experiences really worth ink and paper are 
these which have come to us since I wrote 
last in this journal. First let me tell you 
what happened on December twentieth, the day 
before we passed the Horn. 

Early in the morning, Nora, the stewardess, 
came to tell me that land was in sight, and 
going on deck I saw mountains several miles 
away, and, what was almost as interesting to 
us, a barque. As the sea was calm, the captain 



40 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

had one of his boats made ready, and sent 
Mr. Duncan and the boatswain to board her, 
carrying a bag of buckwheat,- New York papers 
(only two months old), and a bundle of tracts 
as a present to her captain. I was half wild 
with desire to go too, and so was Amy, but 
Arthur thought it would be difficult for us 
to do the climbing necessary to such an under- 
taking, and I agreed with him when I saw them 
swing themselves over the ship's side by a 
rope. Although there were no waves at all 
that day, the great ocean-swells would some- 
times almost hide the little boat, as we watched 
it rather anxiously. It reached the barque 
after less than an hour's pull, and they brought 
back from her captain a box of fine raisins. 
She was on her way from Malaga to San Fran- 
cisco. In the afternoon we caught up with 
her, and sailed so near that the two captains 
shouted a conversation back and forth. Arthur 
said to us: "Now, girls, put on your scarlet 
jackets, so they can see more plainly that I 



Off Cape Horn. 41 

have ladies on board the ' Lyra.' I want them 
to know what a happy man I am." 

It was queer to be so near a little company 
of strangers far at sea, and they stared at us 
and we returned the compliment as if the 
queerness was fully appreciated on both sides. 
Before we were out of their sight the " Lyra's " 
bean-bag club (t. e. Amy, Mr. Fordyce and I) 
felt the need of doing something to keep warm, 
and began to toss the bags about. Mr. F. said 
he had no doubt that the lonely captain and 
officers of the barque were watching our fun 
with envious eyes, and wishing they had some 
young lady passengers to enliven their mo- 
notony. Generally, we play with great precision 
and skill, but that evening we felt rather wild, 
I think, and carried on a disorderly warfare, 
the chief aim of which seemed to be the 
heaving of two bags at once against some 
unhappy being. Mr. Fordyce unintentionally 
sent one at my " starboard eye " with such 
force that for a moment I feared it would be 



42 Amy and Mariorfs Voyage. 

my sad fate to go through the rest of my 
life with only one. 

Later in the evening we took a long walk 
on the main deck with Arthur. I think we 
must have walked three miles altogether, for 
we kept it up from nine to eleven not caring 
to go in while rosy sunset streaks remained in 
the sky, and at last we grew too sleepy to 
wait any longer for darkness to come. These 
Antarctic evenings are strangely fascinating. 
Think of our reading large print by twilight 
at ten o'clock P. M., in December, when you 
at home have had the gas lighted for five 
hours. 

The next morning, December twenty-first, 
we entered the straits of Le Maire. I looked 
out of the cabin window with a vague idea 
that there might be land in view, and saw 
mountains rising out of the sea, apparently 
very near. That was a startling sight for eyes 
grown accustomed to the vast watery plain, 
and we rushed on deck to look through the 



Off Cape, Horn. 43 

marine glass at the constantly changing view. 
We were favored with a fair wind, and sped 
through the straits at the rate of thirteen 
knots an hour, so that when I had provided 
myself with paper and pencil, hoping to get 
some poor memento of the scene, the rapid 
changes in the landscape . made me almost 
despair, while with numb fingers I worked 
laboriously, every moment resolving to lay 
down my pencil and enjoy Nature to the 
utmost, without trying to reproduce it on 
paper. It was not until my paper was covered, 
though, and the white rail by which I stood 
disfigured with scrawls that I gave myself up 
to full enjoyment of the mountains. 

The weather was chilly, and the sky rather 
cloudy, especially in the direction of Staten 
Land on our left, which we could only see 
indistinctly looming up behind the fog, but 
the coast of Tierra del Fuego on the oppo 
site side was not more than three miles 
away. 



44 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

As we went through the straits, mountain 
after mountain came into view, of all shapes 
and sizes, a continuous line : their prevailing 
character bare and rugged, being almost 
destitute of trees, and sprinkled with snow- 
patches around their tops, but some had a 
greenish hue, as if- covered with moss. How 
lonely they looked as we sailed by them ! 
Water-fowl rising in flocks from the sea were 
the only signs of life among those solitudes. 

After dinner the land was in the distance, 
and I stayed on -deck only long enough to see 
how we were beating a whaler, and catching 
up with an iron English ship, which we soon 
left far "behind, greatly to Captain Roslyn's 
exultation. 

At eight o'clock he called us to come directly 
on deck to see the celebrated Cape Horn ; so, 
well protected against the rain with water- 
proofs, we went up to see what will make 
that evening one to be remembered for a 
life-time. 



Off Oajye Horn. 45 

Not far off was a bleak line of coast, with 
curious groups of rocks in the water near it ; 
the farthest point in the line a pyramidal 
rock, much higher than the rest. That was 
Cape Horn, and we were sailing quietly where 
I thought tempests always raged. It looked 
lofty, as we came near enough to see the 
streaks of lichens or seaweed on its black, 
barren sides, and when the " Lyra " sailed 
abreast of it, I thought it was almost high 
enough to be called a mountain. There was 
grandeur in that picture of utter desolation, 
and it seemed the most natural thing in the 
world for us to burst out as we did in 
the doxology, "Praise God from whom all 
blessings flow," for there we were, literally at 
the land's end, our great ship like an egg-shell 
compared with the mighty deep around and 
beneath us, and we had been led from our 
homes and preserved amid many dangers by 
our Father's hand. I wondered if Cape Horn 
echoes were ever roused by a doxology before. 



46 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

Arthur's voice behind me said, as if to him- 
self: "All the ends of the earth shall see the 
salvation of our God." 

We were two hours in passing Horn Island, 
and though it was broad daylight till ten, 
the rain began to fall so heavily that we felt 
obliged to go down, after a parting look at 
the dark sentinel of the continent, half- 
shrouded in mist. By the cabin-stove we 
warmed ourselves, saying : " Is it possible that 
we are past Cape Horn ; that place so feared 
and dreaded by us since we sailed ! " and 
all agreed that the evening's pleasures had 
not been surpassed even by those of moonlight 
in the tropics. 

The day before Christmas was the roughest 
we have ever known, and I am grateful that 
we survived it without any broken bones ; yet 
there was fun in it, as we were not at all 
seasick. It is not exactly convenient, t can 
assure you, when standing before the glass 
arranging my locks, to be kept in perpetual 



Off Cape Horn. 47 

motion, hurled from my position, and dashed 
against the door with brush in hand, then back 
to the glass again, but it entirely prevents 
unnecessary prinking, and is, no doubt, good 
for my character, even if it does make me 
late for breakfast. 

The important business of filling the stock- 
ings had to be attended to on the twenty- 
fourth, in spite of all such inconveniences as 
those I have mentioned, and many of the 
presents being too large to go into a stocking, 
had to be hung on the outside. The book of 
"Familiar Quotations" was brought into use 
to supply mottoes for some articles which were 
put in more as jokes than gifts. The hosiery 
we had to steal from the captain, of course, 
and as he has unusually small feet for a 
man, the stockings were not so capacious as 
we could have wished. By the way, I must 
tell you of Nora's astonishment at Captain 
Roslyn's shoes, which she saw when she was 
" fixing up of his room one day ; and, Miss 



48 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

Amy, child, I says to myself: 'How can a 
man with such small feet have any consti- 
tution to learn anything ! ' " Amy said she 
supposed Nora must have thought that his 
understanding was limited. 

Excuse this disgression from the important 
matter in the foreground. We gave our captain 
two neckties, a shoe-case made of duck (which 
we inveigled Mr. Fordyce into getting for us, 
out of the ship's stores), and bound with scarlet 
braid ; an illuminated text, painted by Miss 
Marion Gilmer, under the greatest difficulties, 
and a pen-wiper; also a pin-ball shaped like 
a flying-fish, the scales marked in ink, and 
a row of pins ornamenting his dorsal fin. 
This article was made in reference to some 
joke of ours about a dead flying-fish which 
an unseen hand propelled through Amy's 
window one day. 

The stocking destined for Mr. Duncan 
contained a shoe-case like the captain's, a 



Off Cape Horn. 49 

necktie, a lace bag full of lumps of sugar, 
and labelled " Cape Horn confectionery," and 
a pin-cushion. 

But Mr. Fordyce's stocking was a triumph 
of art and genius. Amy made him a brush 
and comb case, resplendent with pink bows, 
and I a brown silk necktie. We also presented 
him with a bottle of lemon syrup (stolen, I 
grieve to say, from the pantry, but the theft 
was afterwards confessed, and pardoned), and 
a tiny bean-bag as a reminiscence of our club, 
with B. B. C. printed on it, and the written 
motto attached, was : " Let all your aims be 
high," — a gentle reminder for him to avoid 
throwing his bag at my eyes in future. A 
hideous pen-and-ink sketch of Poe's Raven, 
"sitting on the bust of Pallas," was the last 
of our favors toward this undeserving youth. 

We had to sit up late on Christinas Eve, 
in order to hang the loaded stockings on the 
door handles without fear of discovery, and 
the motion of the vessel caused us to stagger 



50 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

about the dark cabin as if intoxicated, until 
they were safely suspended, and then we went 
to our respective rooms, after a loving embrace 
and mutual congratulations upon the success 
of our undertaking, and were lulled to sleep 
by a Cape Horn breeze sighing and shrieking 
through our windows. 

Great was the excitement the next morning 
over the visit of Santa Claus, and we found 
he had not forgotten us ; a jar of pickles being 
tied by a cord to Amy's door handle, and one 
of olives to mine, with the sentiment : " O live 
forever." 

Arthur said Mr. Duncan had come to him 
in high glee, reporting the appendage on his 
door, and Mr. Fordyce appeared after breakfast 
with my necktie on, Amy's brush and comb- 
case slung on his back like a knapsack, the 
bottle of syrup stuffed into his breast pocket, 
and the likeness of the "Raven" in his hat 
band, to make grateful acknowledgments of 
the young ladies' kindness. Captain Arthur 



Off Cape Horn. 51 

did not discover his flying-fish, and we, sus- 
pecting as much from the absence of allusion 
to what we considered our chef a" ceuvre, found 
it in the toe of his stocking, and set him 
off into fits of laughter when we showed it 
to him. 

January 5th. 

I ought not to write another word in this 
joint letter, haying already gone beyond due 
limits ; but never mind, Gussie, for I really 
must tell you about the close of the old year, 
and opening of the new one. 

On the last afternoon of 18 — , we attempted 
a candy scrape, whereof the molasses wouldn't 
boil as it was expected to, and we tried hard 
to relish a mixture of sour molasses and nuts, 
eaten with spoons, but it took a deal of 
imagining to make us believe we were eating 
candy. 

Amy and I resolved to see the year out, 
and at a few minutes before twelve, we went 
on deck. There, in the quiet starlight, we 



52 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

welcomed 18 — , and thoughts of past and 
future made me feel unusually reflective. Just 
as the " for'ard" bell gave eight strokes for 
midnight, a great din arose in that part of the 
ship among the sailors, who rang the bell 
violently, drummed on tin pans, shouted and 
exchanged New Year's greetings, while above 
all rose the voice of the boatswain singing his 
favorite melody : " Shall we gather at the 
river ? " All this took away much of the 
solemnity of the time, for though I was ready 
to welcome the new year with a song of praise 
in my heart, such riotous proceedings were 
hardly in accordance with my feelings. 

Like two silly girls, as we doubtless are, we 
took it into onr heads to stay on deck for 
a few hours and see the sun rise, but were 
beginning to shiver in our seats on the " bitts," 
when Mr. Duncan asked us if we could trust 
him to make us very comfortable, which he 
did by spreading shawls and cushions on the 
deck, and. wrapping us up as if for a sleigh- 



Off Cape Horn. 53 

ride, in a warm rug of his own. Then he sat 
by us on the sky-light, and we had a delightful 
talk, learning to know and respect our usually 
reserved first officer more than ever, as he told 
us what we had only gathered before from 
scraps of conversation — of his early life in 
the West, where he struggled hard to conquer 
his love of the sea, for he knew his duty was 
to remain upon his widowed mother's farm, and 
it was not easy to throw all his energies into 
work that he hated, yet he did it for three 
years; then his mother was relieved by second 
marriage from fear of poverty, and he left 
free to be led by his own preferences. His 
aim in life, he said, is to be a faithful Christian 
captain, like Arthur, a kind of sailors' mis- 
sionary, and to take with him on his voyages 
a little sister, now in a boarding school, whose 
delicate health causes him some anxiety, for 
she is the only one Jiving in whom he can 
feel the right of possession. 

We talked on all sorts of subjects grave and 



54 Amy and Mariorfs Voyage. 

gay, and speculated on the strange foreign 
scenes through, which the new year might lead 
us. The starlight was beautiful, but at three 
o'clock, just as a faint light was dawning in 
the east, a bank of clouds from the horizon 
mounted up and spread a dull grey curtain 
over the whole sky. Our chance of seeing any 
sunrise was gone, and I began to feel rather 
blue, for this dawn of 18 — , was not enlivening. 
More chilly and stiff than romantic, were the 
girls who crept down to their staterooms, and 
all day we were so stupidly sleepy as to excite 
Arthur's wonderment that merely sitting up 
till midnight should have had such an effect 
upon us. At last we exposed all our folly, 
and were well laughed at for our pains. 

Now, I really am not going to write any 
more in this journal till we get to San 
Francisco, except to tell you that it would 
rejoice your heart to see how well and happy 
Amy is looking. She seems as strong as I 
am now, (such a contrast to what she was six 



Off Cape Morn. 55 

months ago, when I thought we were going 
to lose her ! ) and has such high spirits that I 
sometimes look at her in amazement, asking 
myself: "Can this be my Amy?" That 
serene, pale face of hers, that we both love so 
well, is flushed like the inside of a sea-shell 
by the rough winds of the Cape, and her brown 
eyes sparkle with life and gaiety all the time. 
This voyage is a success so far, certainly, in 
'doing her good, and as for me, I was well 
enough before I left home, and now I am 
growing so fat on duff, baked beans, and " salt 
horse," that Arthur makes me the subject of 
his frequent merriment, declaring that my face 
resembles the reddest side of a russet apple. 

You will think I have not acquired the art 
of leaving off, whatever may be my other 
accomplishments, so I will say good-by, my 
dear old girl, hoping that you are not entirely 
out of patience with 

Your loving Mamon. 




CHAPTER III. 



SAN FRANCISCO. 



AMY'S STORY. 







February 12th, 18 — , 
At Anchor in San Francisco Bay. 



^UIl voyage of one hundred and ten days 

*^>&Jcanie to an end this morning; but as 

we do not go up to the wharf till evening, I 

can add a few closing words to you, my dear. 

All our friends when they read in the Boston 

Transcript to-morrow: "Ship 'Lyra' Captain 

Eoslyn, arr'd, at San Francisco, after a passage 

of one hundred and ten days," will say with 

great relief: " Those poor girls weren't drowned 

off the Horn after all, then ! How glad they 
(56) 



San Francisco. »57 

will be to set foot on dry land ! " It is true 
that I am deeply grateful for the way in which 
we have been led through the perils of the 
sea to the western coast of our native country, 
yet there is such happiness in a sea-life, that 
I am loth to exchange it for the bustle of a 
city, even for a while. 

On the evening of the eleventh, the captain 
told us that at ten o'clock, or soon after, we 
should see Farr alone Light outside the Golden 
Gate, and we on deck in the damp darkness 
shivered with cold and excitement, while 
straining our eyes to catch a glimpse of the 
distant spark. It was not more than twenty 
minutes past ten when from the mast-head a 
sailor cried : " Light, ho ! " The accuracy of 
calculation by which a captain, after sailing 
thousands of miles, could predict within half 
an hour the time when a light should appear, 
made me respect the science of navigation. 

Just at sunrise we went through the Golden 
Gate, and gazed with rapture at the verdant 



58 Amy and Marlon's Voyage. 

hills that guard the entrance to San Francisco's 
great harbor, among whose vessels the " Lyra " 
sailed proudly, and dropped her anchor at last 
with a vibrating ring of the great iron chain 
that seemed like an exultant " amen " to a 
prosperous voyage. 

There are friends in the city to whose house 
we shall go to-night, — the Wildings; friends 
as yet unseen by us, (with one exception) , but 
long known by reputation. Mr. Wilding and 
my father were close comrades in their boy- 
hood, and in their early manhood studied law 
in the same office. Then the former went to 
San Francisco and settled there, and when 
father died he wrote Arthur a letter of most 
affectionate sympathy, saying that if ever he 
could render any service to Herbert Roslyn's 
children for the sake of his love to their 
father, nothing would gratify Mm more. 
Therefore, when Arthur first thought of 
taking Marion and myself on a voyage he 
wrote to Mr. Wilding that we should hope to 



San Francisco. -. * 59 

see him in California some time in the month 
of February, and an answer soon came with 
a cordial invitation for us to make his house 
our home as long as we could remain in 
San Francisco. 

This answer only came a few days before 
we sailed, and I did not think of telling you 
about it, for was not a long experience of 
ocean life between ourselves and the kind 
welcome awaiting us on the Pacific coast, 
causing it to seem very distant and unreal? 
Now, it is a pleasant reality, and Mr. Wilding's 
son came on board this morning soon after 
we anchored, to assure us of it. To tell the 
truth, in the excitement of our arrival, I had 
almost forgotten that there were any such 
people as the Wildings, when I suddenly espied 
a stout young man with a brown moustache 
shaking hands with Marion, to whom the 
captain had just presented him, and bidding 
her welcome to San Francisco with the cor- 
diality of an old acquaintance. He brought 



60 Amy and Marlon's Voyage, 

us our letters, which had been sent to his 
father's care, and we were so anxious to hear 
from all our friends at home, that we were 
not very polite to him, I 'm afraid. He con- 
siderately took himself off, promising to return 
at tea-time in the steam-tug which is to convey 
us to the wharf, and we were at liberty 
to read the news. So many letters and 
everybody alive and well! What cause for 
thanksgiving we have ! Your letter of forty 
pages absorbed our united attention for an 
hour, during which time we forgot where we 
were, and lived through the winter with you ; 
going to lectures, symphony concerts, oratorios, 
painting-class, sewing-schools and tenement 
houses where your poor friends congregate. 
You have lived a more useful life lately 
than that of your sea-faring friends ; but 
perhaps they have laid up health and 
glad memories that will make them better 
workers for others in days to come. We 
will hope so. 



San Francisco. 61 

I am sorry we missed the grand wedding 
of the season, — Sophie Moore's, — and Marion 
is especially so, for she remembers making 
mud-pies with her when they were next-door 

neighbors in K street, and says they " used 

to fight like two cats." Such memories would 
add interest to a wedding ceremony. 

I must close this letter and mail it when we 
land, which I almost dread to do. Can you 
believe that, after nearly four months at sea? 
A congenial company have been the captain, 
officers and passengers of the " Lyra," and who 
can tell if we shall all sail again together 
from this port? Mr. Duncan will take com- 
mand of a ship if he can find one here, I 
suppose, and if Mr. Fordyce gets a summons 
from his home he will go there by rail ; but 
I trust these " ifs " will not become stern 
facts to break np the " Lyra's " pleasant circle. 
I hear the shrill whistle of the steam-tug, 
and we must get ready to go ashore. Already 
we have* donned costumes that are suitable to 



62 Amy and Marion's Voyage, 

an appearance in city streets, and the brown 

faces reflected in the glass certainly harmonize 

better with onr sea-dresses of soft, dark flannel, 

than with these light grey ruffles and loopings. 

Marion fears the Wildings will take us for 

descendants of the Digger Indians. 

We will write more by and by, but not quite 

such a volume as this, which now closes, with 

love from both your friends, 

Amy Roslyn. 
Marion Gilmer. 

San Francisco, March 12th, 18 — . 

Dear Gussie, — A long drive to-day has 
left me rather too tired this evening to accom- 
pany Marion and the others to a concert, and 
the rarity of such quiet hours as this one, 
induces me to make the most of my time in 
writing to you. 

If Marion and I had been two long-absent 
daughters of the Wilding family, they could 
hardly have given us a heartier welcome when 



San Francisco. 63 

we came from the "Lyra" to more spacious 
quarters in this elegant mansion. Western 
people know how to make their guests feel 
at home, without doubt ; stiffness and formality 
are unknown to them, if I may judge from 
my short acquaintance with San Franciscans, 
and we know more people now, after being 
here three weeks, than Mrs. Grantly, our 
hostess, would know after a three months' 
visit with us in Boston, I am convinced; for 
their free and easy ways, if they do sometimes 
astonish a stranger, have a tendency to make 
the most reserved person descend from stateli- 
ness, and meet them half-way. 

Mrs. Grantly is a young widow, — - Mr. Wild- 
ding's only daughter, — a tiny creature with 
wavy hair, and eyes that remind me of a 
kitten's in their expression, — roguishness and 
innocence being so singularly combined. 

Mrs. Wilding died years ago, and the head 
of the family is a man whose genial nature is 
expressed by every look and tone. His eldest 



64 Amy and Marion's Voyage, 

son, Robert, our first San Francisco acquaint- 
ance, devotes himself to us as if he had no 
other object in life than to see that our impres- 
sions of this city are of the most favorable 
kind, and from morning to midnight he would 
escort us up and down these hilly streets, if 
our strength was equal to his good-nature. 

The only member of the family whom I have 
not yet described is " Jim/' the youngest son. 
He is a real boy, aged thirteen, and you can 
easily form your opinion of him from these 
particulars. Of course he is Marion's faithful 
knight, — boys of his age always are, in return 
for her undisguised interest in them. 

So much for the family. As to the city, I 
like it in spite of its steep hills, and the 
scarcity of trees. There is some quality in 
the air that causes such an effervescence of 
my spirits that I am in a mood to be pleased 
with everything. 

Only think of calla lilies lifting their creamy 
heads by hundreds in yards that separate the 



San Francisco. 65 

houses only a few feet from the sidewalks! 
and across the bay in Alameda there is the 
rich verdure of our June grass, blossoming 
fruit trees, and a wilderness of ivies and flowers 
about the houses, although the weather is cool 
enough to remind us of autumn forests, rather 
than of spring gardens. We spent a day or 
two there with some pleasant people, and drove 
over to Oakland, also gay with young green 
leaves and flowers. A lady with whom we 
took lunch gave me a little century plant, 
which I shall carry with me on my future 
travels in memory of the freshness and joy 
of that spring day; however the others may 
laugh at me for setting my affections on 
a thing so devoid of any "soft, attractive 
grace." 

To-day Robert Wilding drove his sister, 
Marion, and myself, out to the Cliff House, 
where we sat on the piazza and surveyed the 
wide Pacific, rolling almost from our feet far 
out beyond the Golden Gate. Most people 



66 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

are interested in watching the slimy-looking 
seals that bob their round heads ont of the 
water, and swarm over the rocks near the 
hotel ; but I did not appreciate them, for the 
sight of the ocean makes me oblivious to every- 
thing else. For once, though, I was willing 
to turn from it to look at the beautiful green 
hills through which our onward road wound. 
They were bright with red, yellow, and blue 
flowers, — not hiding shyly among the grass 
and brushes like our fringed gentians, or the 
trailing arbutus, but each one large and erect, 
nodding its gay head to us as the breeze 
swept by, and the hills looked as if they were 
covered with variegated carpets. 

I turned back and saw between them a 
blue strip of sea ; then my forward gaze met 
a grand view of the city and harbor of San 
Francisco, as we suddenly came around the 
shoulder of a hill. In one of the quiet lanes 
we left the horses tied to a fence, and spreading 
the carriage robes in a verdant field, camped 



San Francisco. 67 

out among the scarlet poppies to eat our 
lunch. I remembered while sitting there that 
on the twelfth of March one year ago I was 
yery ill with diphtheretic sore throat, and 
outside the house snow and ice prevailed with 
bitter winds. To-day, with health restored, 
the happy memory of one hundred and ten 
days of sea-life behind me, and a prospect of 
much good in store, I thought " Truly, 4 He 
maketh me to lie down in green pastures,' and 
1 What shall I render unto the Lord for all 
His benefits toward me V " In all hours of 
life that are marked by a peculiar depth of 
any experience, either of sorrow or joy, how 
the Bible words come into the minds of those 
who love them as the truest expression of 
their feelings ! We do not find it so with 
uninspired words. 

You ask in your last letter if we have seen 
much of the Chinese element in San Francisco. 
We have seen numbers of Chinamen in the 
streets, but knowing that the " Lyra's " bow 



68 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

will soon be pointed toward the Celestial 
Empire, we thought it would be better to 
receive our first impressions of the idolatries 
and the social life of the heathen in their 
own country. 

Many churches here have Chinese Sunday- 
schools connected with them, and it is inter- 
esting to see the scholars with their loose 
blue sacks and long queues, listening to some 
bright young girl, or thoughtful man, as they 
try to show them the way of Life. 

It surprises me to find how the people 
in San Francisco interest themselves in the 
vessels that come here. One of them that 
is remarkable for anything, — speed or hand- 
some cabins, for instance, — is sure to be 
visited by crowds; and several times when 
Marion and I have gone down to the 
"Lyra" with friends to whom we wished 
to exhibit " our home " (as we really feel 
it to be), we have encountered curious strangers 
prying about the cabins, and evidently regret- 



San Francisco. 69 

ting that our state-rooms were locked, which 
we considered a matter for self-congratulation. 

One afternoon we took a long walk with 
Robert Wilding and Mr. Fordyce, and decided 
for novelty's sake to take tea on board the 
ship, and go to a lecture afterward on our 
way back to Mr. Wilding's house. The sound 
of pouring rain on the cabin roof assured us 
that we had no need to anticipate the lecture, 
and might as well make up our minds not to 
leave the ship before morning. The captain 
came in, and rinding us as composedly settled 
as if we were on a long voyage, instead of 
being moored to Vallejo street wharf, looked 
somewhat astonished, but laughingly bade us 
welcome to his ship, and proceeded to make 
himself as comfortable as we were. 

He had two pieces of news to impart, and, 
after teasing us a long time, announced that 
we were to take a passenger to the Sandwich 
Islands on our way to China, and we may 
be able to make a visit of a few days at 



70 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

Honolulu. Our delight was great at this 
unexpected addition to the list of foreign 
ports at which we were hoping to touch in 
the course of our voyage ; but a passenger ! — 
that would be a donbtful blessing. Some 
disagreeable person, perhaps, to break up onr 
harmonious party. 

" Now, don't borrow trouble, girls," said the 
captain, " before you know whether he is. dis- 
agreeable, or the concentration of all manly 
virtues. ' A young man ? ' Yes, Marion, he 
is rather young; about the age of your 
respected cousin, the captain of the ' Lyra.' 
4 Where am I going to put him ? ' In the 
state-room opposite Amy's, of course." 

" But that is our store-room ! " 

" I should judge so," said Arthur, opening 
the door, and taking an inventory of its 
contents. " Rag-bags, magazines, waterproof 
cloaks, guitar-case, old hats and boots lying 
about promiscuously ! This place has got to 
be fitted up for Mr. Lewis Curran's state-room, 



San Francisco. 71 

although chaos reigns here now; and, by 
the way, he must be two inches longer than 
this berth. What shall I do about that?" 

"Cut a hole in the wall at the end of it 
for each foot, and let him extend them into 
the pantry," suggested Mr. Fordyce. 

" When are we going to see the creature ? " 
asked Marion. 

"We will give a party down here on the 
ship when the moon is full, and ask every one 
of our San Francisco friends to be present. 
Mr. Curran can come too, and see how he 
likes his accommodations and his fellow- 
passengers." 

Arthur's plan met with approval, and we 
proceeded to write a list of those who were 
to be favored with an invitation to this 
novel entertainment, — a moonlight party at 
Vallejo street wharf. I will keep my letter 
for a few days, and let you know how it 
passed off. 



72 Amy and Marion 9 % Voyage. 

March 16th. 

The moonliglit last night was all we could 
wish, and soon after a six o'clock dinner, 
Marion and I started for the wharf, with Mrs. 
Grantly, Robert and Jim. A small crowd of 
friends came trooping over the gangway, half 
an hour later, and we had a very funny, 
informal kind of a party. In the lighted 
cabins our guests amused themselves with 
music and photograph albums, or inspected 
our pretty state-rooms, and wished it had been 
their happy lot to go on a long voyage in 
such a ship as the " Lyra." On deck, romantic 
couples paced up and down, or sat in the 
bows, looking over the harbor, whose fleet of 
anchored vessels, as well as the surrounding 
hills were brought into soft distinctness by 
the flood of moonlight; and a party of seven 
mounted the "spanker-boom" and sat there, 
making the night vocal. 

Marion was enjoying herself upon this 
elevated perch, when she saw a solitary figure 



San Francisco. 73 

ascend the gangway steps, and she sprang 
down to tell me that " the passenger," t that 
much dreaded character, was coming on 
board. 

Robert Wilding and Mr. Fordyce were with 
us when Arthur advanced with a very tall 
young man, whom he introduced as " Mr. 
Curran, our fellow-passenger." 

We had just enough uncomfortable conscious- 
ness of the remarks passed two nights before 
upon this gentleman, to make us exceedingly 
stiff in responding to the introduction, and some 
time after the captain called me to account 
for it, begging me not to act as if I grudged 
him a fortnight's passage on our ship. There- 
fore I expressed contrition, and took pains to 
be pleasant to Mr. Curran when I found a 
minute to speak to him. He had met our stiff- 
ness with an equal amount of the same ; but 
when I tried to make amends for our share 
of it, he unbent, and we had a friendly chat 
until supper was announced. 



74 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

% Now San Franciscans know what good living 
is, and I was well aware that ship cookery 
needs sea appetites; accordingly I sat down 
to our loaded table with a heart full of mis- 
givings. The supper looked as if it were good, 
the people seemed hungry, and my courage re- 
vived, until, glancing at Marion, I met her eyes 
fixed on me with a look that said unutterable 
things. " If anything is wrong, it must be the 
crab-salad," I thought, a cold perspiration 
coming out upon my brow as I watched the 
faces of those who helped themselves to that 
delicacy, and noticed that no one took more 
than two mouthfuls, and that the first one 
caused a look of surprise, the second of disgust. 
At last I ventured to taste it myself. My first 
impulse was to exclaim: "kerosene ! " for there 
was a strong flavor of something entirely 
foreign to the usual ingredients of salad, and 
it seemed as much like that as anything. 
Persevering until six mouthfuls were dis- 
patched, I found the flavor was of raw onions, 



San Francisco. 75 

and slightly rancicl oil. Mr. Curran was 
watching me, and as I met his amused glance 
we both laughed so much that it was half 
a minute before I could regain my yoice to 
tell him that there was yet time for him to 
give up his passage on the "Lyra," if he 
feared a ' frequent repetition of onion salad 
during his voyage to Honolulu. 

Some of our guests went home directly after 
supper, and the rest of them, with ourselves, 
left the ship a little before midnight, every one 
saying : " How much more fun this has been 
than any commonplace drawing-room party! " 

In a few days we sail, and Mr. Duncan still 
retains his post of first officer, for he did not 
find in San Francisco any vessel that he could 
take command of, and he told me he had 
not taken a great deal of pains, being very 
well satisfied at present where he is. 

This is my last letter until we send our 
mail from Honolulu. 

Ever yours, lovingly, Amy. 





CHAPTER IV. 

CROSSING THE PACIFIC. ' 
MARION'S STORY. 

Ship " Lyra," Pacific Ocean, 
April 6th, 18—. 

PEAR Gussie, — Our ship is speeding 
'toward the Hawaiian islands, but she 
bears a third less of me than she did when we 
came to the shores of California. The missing 
third remains in. that blissful country, and 
never did it cause me such a wrench of my 
feelings to leave any place. Leaving home 
was nothing to it, for then "the world was 
all before me, where to choose," and the 
prospect of seeing it sustained me; but I 

sailed from San Francisco with a settled con- 

(76) 



Crossing the Pacific. 77 

viction that never more, in heathen or Christian 
lands, should I be likely to have such a good 
time as I had there. 

The day before we sailed, the " Lyra " left 
the wharf and anchored a little way down the 
harbor, where we had to go out to her in a 
row-boat. That dear boy, Jim, went with 
us to enliven me to the last possible moment. 
He and his brother Robert spent the night on 
board, making, with Mr. Curran, the officers, 
Arthur, Amy and myself, quite an array at 
the tea-table, and we were not a funereal 
party, although I am sure that to more than 
half of our number an often recurring thought 
of the next morning's sailing came somewhat 
like the shadow of the guillotine upon the 
merry-making of the prisoners, who tried to 
forget what their morrow would surely bring. 
Every one was so kind to us in San Francisco 
that it was hard to say good-bye, knowing that 
we are not likely to see any of them again for 
j^ears, if ever ; and as you have heard me long 



78 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

for a brother just a few years younger than 
myself, you can understand my regret when, 
haying found Jim Wilding the exact pattern 
after which I should cut one out if it were 
possible, I had to see him borne from me by 
a cruel steam-tug, which carried out of our 
sight about thirty esteemed friends. They came 
off in the tug, these cordial souls, to do us 
honor, and enjoy a sail down the harbor, as the 
tug went ahead about a hundred feet, drawing 
the ship after her by a long hawser, and we 
stood in the bows to be as near them as 
possible. 

The sky became overcast, and the water 
so rough that it was not easy for us to 
stand where we did, heartlessly laughing at 
the suffering of the passengers on the little 
tug, which had begun to toss about like a 
shuttle-cock. I didn't feel merry, but that 
sight was too much for me. A dozen ladies 
were kneeling in a row by the rail, gazing 
intently, with pallid countenances, upon the 



Crossing the Pacific 79 

cold, gray waves, and the anguish of their 
expressions made me sure they were saying 
to their inmost souls : " Oh ! why did this 
wretched ' Lyra ' ever come to San Francisco 
to bring us into such misery ? " And they 
were on a pleasure party! I was justly 
rewarded for laughing at them, for soon the 
steam-tug drew in her rope from us, and turned 
back, the gentlemen giving shouts of farewell, 
and some of the ladies, who were not wholly 
incapacitated, feebly waving their handker- 
chiefs ; and before I had watched them quite 
out of sight, I began to feel " kind of funny," 
as our stewardesss says when she is mildly 
seasick, and sought my state-room, only stopping 
a moment to speak a few words of cheer to 
our new passenger, who was sitting on the 
hatchwajr, with the dejected expression of one 
who is in the iron grip of homesickness. I do 
not mean Mr. Curran; didn't you know we 
had two new passengers ? The second one is 
Jim's yellow cat, the darling of his heart, 



80 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

which he insisted on giving me as a parting 
gift, or "legacy," he said, to help me always 
to remember him. I realized the precionsness 
of the gift, and couldn't bear to deprive the 
boy of his " Yaller," as he euphoniously calls 
her, and only consented to take her when I 
saw two bright hazel eyes grow dim at my 
refusal. With her natural charms embellished 
by a lavender neck-ribbon, " Yaller " became 
one of the " Lyra's " passengers, but whether 
she has gone down into the hold to indulge 
in silent melancholy, or has become a victim to 
Neptune, I cannot discover, for ever since our 
first day out, when she seemed terrified at the 
heaving of the cabin floor, we have seen no 
trace of her but her blonde hairs scattered 
over the green sofa cushions. 

On that first day I sought my berth, and 
lay there until evening, less affected by sea- 
sickness than by low spirits, and a weariness 
quite natural after six weeks of sight-seeing, 
company, and late hours. Before tea I aroused 



Crossing the Pacific. 81 

from my lethargy, and went to inquire after 
Amy's condition. She was " in medias res" her 
misery being such that even I could do her no 
greater favor than to let her alone, and I 
despondently went upon deck, half-clreading to 
see the dull, gray ocean that was just sepa- 
rating me from the land of my affection. 

Hearty welcomes greeted me from the captain 
and Mr. Duncan. " Where have you been all 
this time, little girl ? " said the former ; " not 
seasick, surely ? " 

"Suffering from mal de la terre, if there is 
such a thing, much more than mal de mer" 
I answered, listlessly. " The sea does not seem 
as beautiful to me now as it did six months 
ago. How dark and dreary it is ! " 

" You are looking in the wrong quarter, Miss 
Marion," said Mr. Duncan. " Turn around to 
the west." There I saw a broad band of 
orange sky, and waves tinged with a bronze 
light; a bracing wind blew my hat off, and 
my dolefulness went with it. How much good 



82 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

it does to look in the right direction when we 
have the bines ! (A moral reflection that yon 
will do well to remember, Gnssie.) After all, 
I had as much to be thankful for as ever ; 
the same pleasant company as on our last 
voyage, with the addition of an intelligent 
young lawyer and a yellow cat from San 
Francisco, and what was I moping about ? 

A strain of music from the forecastle made 
us aware that one of our new sailors possesses 
a concertina, and knows how to play on it 
very nicely. " Love among the roses," was the 
air he gave us then, and Mr. Curran felt some 
secret chord thrilled by the familiar strain, I 
think, for he went to the taffrail and leaned 
upon it, gazing in the direction of land. It was 
my duty to try if I could cheer him a little, 
I suppose, but I was rather afraid of him ; 
perhaps because he treated me as if he con- 
sidered me very young, and a scatter-brained 
individual into the bargain. It is depressing 
to know that any one has a bad opinion of 



Crossing the Pacific. 83 

you, and for a while I was nearly as stiff with 
him as in the hour of our introduction. 

The next day was dark, and the vessel 
rolled, and creaked her timbers in a way that 
made me feel vicious. Amy was in her state- 
room, from which all my persuasions were of 
no avail to bring her out, and after fairly 
tipping over in a low, easy chair, when a 
prolonged roll dislodged all movable things, I 
climbed into my berth, as the only secure place, 
and sat curled up there like a kitten in a 
hay-loft. The window of my state-room is 
on a level with the berth, and when sitting 
close to it, as I was thee, every word of mine 
could be overheard by those on the starboard 
side of the deck, but I did n't take that into 
consideration as I opened " Paradise Lost," 
and began to commit to memory a part of 
Satan's address to Beelzebub, for a few frag- 
ments of it had been wandering in the dusty 
corners of my brain, and I knew the only 
way to drive them out was to learn the 



84 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

lines connectedly. Therefore, just imagine the 
absurdity of my exclaiming in our revered 
preceptor's own manner : " If thou be'est he ! 
But oh, how fallen, how changed ! " and " Fallen 
cherub, to be weak is miserable, doing or 
suffering," etc., and of hearing, when I paused, 
the voice of Mr. Curran saying in a low tone : 
"What can she be talking about, Fordyce? 
Lamenting a change in some friend, it appears. 
Has she left her heart in San Francisco, 
I wonder?" 

Indignation made me as stony as if I had 
had a vision of the Gorgon's head with snaky 
locks, and my book dropped from my hand 
over the side of the berth, hearing which, the 
young men had the manners to move off and 
finish their remarks at a safe distance. 

At dinner I made some mischievous allusion 
to the ease with which conversation on deck 
could be heard in the state-rooms, and had the 
gratification of seeing Mr. Curran change coun- 
tenance, and regard me with an inquiring look, 



Crossing the Pacific. 85 

as if seeking an explanation, which we had 
afterward with a good deal of fun, and we 
soon found ourselves on a more sociable 
footing. 

Amy gave us her ever-welcome presence 
before night, for seasickness had fled, leaving 
her weak and pale, but even more than usually 
bright, and she checkmated our passenger in 
a deep game of chess during the evening 
while I sat by them with nry attention riveted 
upon the board. After this mental combat 
they felt the need of refreshment, and we 
opened a great box of candy, a gift from 
Robert Wilding, and took it into the forward 
cabin to treat the officers. There must have 
been six pounds of the choicest candy in that 
box, but there is not a crumb left now, after 
about ten conferences held over it by us all 
since it was opened. Every night we have 
placed the box in the centre of the dining- 
room table, and all knelt around it on the 
settees, discussing the merits of its contents, 



86 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

and each one fixing an eye upon the pieces 
of candy he or she desired, — then five hands 
made a sudden grab, and the captain bore off 
the precious box to its locker, proclaiming 
the candy conference adjourned till the next 
night. 

There has been a good deal of unpleasant 
weather since we sailed, and the idea of 
arriving so soon at Honolulu makes me feel 
quite unsettled, as if it were not worth while 
to start on any of our old routines of reading 
and study. On damp evenings very good 
concerts have been held in the " Lyra's " cabin, 
for Mr. Curran is a fine performer upon the 
flute, and plays duets with Arthur, or else he 
gives us a flute solo with an organ accompani- 
ment by Amy, and when clear skies make it 
pleasant for us to be on deck, we have vocal 
music there, with the guitar. We shall be 
sorry on this account to leave Mr. Curran at 
Honolulu, and he has really been an agreeable 
addition to our party during the short time we 



Crossing the Pacific. 87 

have sailed together. I don't know how well 
he would wear on a long voyage. To any 
one who wants to choose a friend — as the 
Vicar of Wakefield's wife chose her wedding 
gown — "for qualities that wear well," I can 
recommend our first mate, and one is always 
sure of finding him just the same, never 
brilliant, and never dull. 

There has been only one moonlight evening 
thus far on our passage, and that was so 
beautiful that all the sailors, as well as the 
passengers, were out till past midnight enjoying 
themselves. It is comical to see what grown 
men will do to amuse themselves on a ship ! 
Finding Mr. Curran's talk on crvil and common 
law too prosaic for such an evening, I wandered 
away from the group on the house, and 
looked down on the main deck to see how 
the sailors were passing the time, for a clat- 
tering of something on a tin pan, and frequent 
bursts of laughter aroused my curiosity. One 
of the men had a wooden Jim Crow, whose 



88 Amy and Marion's Voyage, 

movable joints were fastened by rivets made 
out of our hairpins, as I was informed after- 
wards, and lie was dancing it on a pan for the 
general entertainment. 

In two days these feet of mine, that have 
trodden the paths of learning in your company 
hundreds of times, will press Hawaiian soil ! 
I shall recline under the spreading palms, 
eating " poi " with my forefinger from a cocoa- 
nut shell like a native Kanaka, and bananas 
will be so plenty that I shall think no more 
of them than if they were corn cobs. Imagine 
my bliss, then, if you can ! 

I think I will stop writing, for, on looking 
over these pages, I see there is neither wisdom 
nor profit in them, and being doubtful if I am 
likely to improve just now, my narrative shall 
be cut short, to be continued when I reach 
the shores of Asia. 

Ever yours, Mahion. 



Crossing the Pacific. 91 

AMY'S STORY. 

Pacific Ocean, May 2nd, 18 — . 

This letter was to be made especially 
interesting to you, dear Gussie, by a full 
description of what we enjoyed in Honolulu, 
and as Marion and I did not go there after 
all, I fear you will read it with disappointment 
almost as great as that experienced by us, 
when the bright visions upon which we had 
been living for a fortnight proved hardly more 
substantial than a fading mirage. 

Ah, well ! it was one of the slips " 'twixt 
the cup and the lip " so common to all, and 
after the great mercies that have attended 
us, we must not be ungrateful enough to 
complain if one pleasure is withheld. Perhaps 
you will find some interest in an account 
of how we did nH visit Honolulu. 

On the ninth of April we drew near to the 
Hawaiian group, seeing Molokai first of all 
in the distance; then we had a near view 
of Oahu, whose aspect was most forbidding, 



92 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

suggestive of volcanic fires, and our ideas of 
tropical beauty received a shock as we looked 
at it, but, rounding the corner of the island, 
there came in sight a landscape of surpassing 
loveliness. The town of Honolulu, with its 
white church spires, and houses shaded by 
rich foliage, is in a recess formed by the 
mountains, which curve around it almost to 
the water's edge. Many of them are extinct 
volcanoes, curiously shaped, and relieved from 
barrenness by a soft blending of green, brown, 
yellow and crimson hues. The soil in some 
places is so red that we thought the color 
was caused by fields of brilliant flowers, and 
with the beach of dazzling sand, the rows of 
cocoa-nut palms beyond it, and the translucent 
blue sea breaking upon it in a white fringe 
of foam, there were enough elements of beauty 
to form a rare picture. 

The captain gave orders that the anchor 
should be dropped, and prepared to go on 
shore with Mr. Curran, telling us if he found" 



Crossing the Pacific. 93 

there that he could obtain enough cargo for 
China to justify a few days' detention, he would 
come back for us, and let us spend every 
moment of the time in Honolulu. There was 
a slight shade of doubt cast upon us by 
Arthur's proviso, soon removed, however, for 
the pilot who boarded the vessel told him 
some commercial facts that made him turn 
back, as he was going down the gangway, to 
call out that we must be all ready to go 
ashore after dinner. Mr. Curran said he would 
be on the beach to welcome us, and went off, 
not even deeming it necessary to say farewell 
leaving us to pass several hours in a state of 
joyous expectancy, while we surveyed the 
picturesque town before us with the marine 
glass, by help of which equestrians on the 
beach could be plainly seen ; and we planned 
a horse-back ride for ourselves at sunrise the 
next day. 

With the afternoon came a gathering cloud 
of misgivings. The wind had risen and there 



94 Amy and Marion's Voyage, 

were two miles of rough water between the 
" Lyra's " girls and the land they longed to 
visit. A coral reef, over which the waves were 
tossing up foam, must be passed in a little 
boat, and we anxiously watched one that was 
pushed off from the beach and rowed toward 
us, for it danced about in a way that made 
me tremble at the thought of returning 
in it. 

" Why ! Arthur is n't there," Marion cried 
at last. " There is only a crew of half-clothed 
heathen." 

" The Sandwich Islanders are not heathen ; " 
I suggested, but when the boat was near, I 
hoped that the real heathen would not appear 
more outlandish than the dark-skinned men 
who rowed it. They brought a note from 
Arthur. 

"Dear Girls, — No cargo worth waiting 
for. I should be unfaithful to the owners 
were I to detain the ship for our own gratifi- 
cation, so we sail to-night at ten. This boat 



Crossing the Pacific. 95 

will bring back Mr. Curran's luggage, and if 
the sea grows smoother by three o'clock, you 
may come on shore and spend a few hours. 
I would have sent Mr. Fordyce to the ship as 
an escort for you if I could have spared him 
from my business here ; but you need n't fear 
the natives, they are not as wild as they 
look." 

"With the blankest disappointment we looked 
at each other — at the boat heavily weighted 
with trunks, and noticed several inches of 
water in it, — at the sea which had grown 
rougher since Arthur wrote his letter — and 
we pondered. Mr. Duncan could not leave 
the ship in her captain's absence, and I hope 
the Kanakas will pardon me if I do them 
injustice in saying that, to my unaccustomed 
eyes, they appeared almost uncivilized enough 
to have killed and eaten us on our way to 
their island. Moreover, as Marion said : " "We 
should be wetter than two mermaids by the 
time the boat touched the beach, and where 



96 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

would be the fun of stalking about the streets 
of Honolulu for a few hours in a dripping 
condition? " 

It was with many a pang that we let the 
boat return without us, and sat on deck 
watching the increased loveliness of Oahu, 
as a golden glow touched the mountains, and 
the sea grew purple with reflected sunset 
clouds. 

Before dark, Arthur came back, and brought 
with him one of the missionaries, who stayed 
to tea, and told us that unknown friends in 
Honolulu were disappointed in not welcoming 
us to their homes, for a visit of two young 
ladies from Massachusetts would have been 
an unusual pleasure to them. One gentleman 
had his carriage and horses waiting on the 
beach, meaning to give us a drive the moment 
we should land, so that we could have seen 
a good deal of town and country, even in two 
or three hours, but as we could not have 
arrived there with dry clothing his carriage 



Crossing the Pacific. 97 

cushions would have been ruined by salt water, 
and that thought tended to alleviate our 
feelings of regret for what we had lost. The 
missionary brought us some flowers — spider- 
lilies, he called them, with long, slender petals 
of purest white, and a strange, delicious odor. 
The land breezes that came to us' had much 
of the same perfume, and the next day when 
I went on deck, soon after sunrise, a breath 
of sweet wind seemed to be following us 
from the depths of cool, rain-sprinkled forests. 
I ventured to ask our guest if the only 
specimens of Sandwich Islanders we had seen 
might be taken as fair samples of the native 
population, and he replied with a smile that 
some of the boatmen were rather hard char- 
acters, and to judge of all their countrymen 
by a few of this class would lead us to doubt 
if missionary labors had improved them, out- 
wardly, at least. Then he told us about the 
work of missions in this group of islands, and 
though we were familiar with the well-known 



98 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

fact that a more wonderful change has been 
wrought here within fifty years than can be 
accounted for merely by the labors of a little 
band of men and women, without a mighty 
power which we believe worked with them, 
I never quite realized before how great it was. 
Before he left us, we gathered around the 
organ and sang the hymn, 

" Blest be the tie that binds 
Our hearts in Christian love." 

and then, with messages from us to all the 

mission circle, whom we loved without seeing, 

he went away. 

On deck, where the moonlight gave us a 

clear view of the peaceful town and its 

protecting mountains, I stood after he had 

bidden us farewell till the splash of his oars 

became inaudible, and tried to imagine Oahu 

as it was of old, the scenes of slaughter there, 

and fiery offerings to idol gods, but it was 

not easy to do so while I saw the moonbeams 

glistening on the roofs of Christian homes, 



Crossing the Pacific. 99 

and the white spire of a house of prayer 
plainly visible above the dark palms. 

My nmsings were broken np by the noisy 
confusion preparatory to the heaving of the 
anchor ; and the rattling of the chain, with a 
loud tramping of feet and calls to the men, 
sent me down into the cabin, after one farewell 
look of lingering regret at Honolulu. 

Since that night we have had the true 
poetry of sailing. Day after day the Pacific 
is smooth as a lake, and from early morning 
until late in the evening we are on deck 
enjoying ourselves, and drawing comparisons 
between this ocean and the Atlantic that are 
unfavorable to the latter. I wonder if any one 
ever had four consecutive weeks of such 
weather as this on the ocean that washes our 
native shores. The afternoons are especially 
beautiful, for then we sail into a wide golden 
path of sunlight, and the sails keep off all 
glare from the deck, where we read aloud 
to each other, play chess, study, and write 



100 Amy and Marion's Voyage, 

with no fear of the ink upsetting, and feast 
on oranges and bananas, mementoes of the 
Sandwich Islands, of which Arthur laid in a 
generous stock. It seems to us that we have 
never eaten real oranges before — the juice 
runs out of these in streams, and nearly half 
of it is lost, yet more remains than I ever 
saw in oranges purchased at home. 

Who should appear the day after Mr. Curran 
left us but passenger number two, Marion's 
yellow cat, as gaunt as a famished wolf; but 
she did not appear to be very hungry, and 
after eating and drinking, she wandered around 
the ship in great uneasiness of body or mind, 
uttering mournful cries. It made Marion feel 
badly to see her Jim's favorite in such a 
state ; and I was glad when the creature 
vanished again, for there was really something 
ghostly about her. 

To-day we are becalmed. The sea is like 
pale blue satin, unbroken by the little waves 
that generally splash up out of the level surface 



Crossing the Pacific. 101 

as if excited by a sudden impulse of joy. 
The sun is scorching, and we are all so thirsty 
that frequent visits are made to the pantry 
for the purpose of concocting such mild bev- 
erages as water and citric acid, or lime-juice 
or syrups of various kinds, — all bad, to my 
taste, but an improvement on plain warm 
water flavored by the cask that has held it 
for a month. Compassion for the man at the 
wheel moved me this afternoon to offer him 
a glass of imitation lemonade, for he looked 
ready to melt under the hot sun, and while 
waiting for him to hand me back the glass, 
I saw two sharks following in our wake. I 
notified the second mate of their appearance. 
Harpoons were made ready, and hurled at 
the stealthily gliding monsters, missing their 
aim and only frightening them away, for which 
I was not sorry, as it takes them so long to 
die that my courage might have failed me at 
the sight of one of them squirming on deck, 
showing his cruel teeth. 



102 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

Yesterday, we passed the Bashee Islands, 
and were impressed with the resemblance of 
one of them to a great stone image. It is a 
tall, narrow rock, standing quite alone, and the 
dark spots and crustations of shell near its 
summit led us to imagine a face. We called 
it an idol guarding the entrance to the China 
sea. As we sailed by it we bade farewell to 
the dear Pacific, where we had passed such 
happy days and felt we were drawing near 
to heathendom. 

In the evening Mr Duncan asked us if we 
would like to go "for'ard" into the bows, and 
see the reflection of the moon on the sea 
ahead of the vessel. Marion, reposing on the 
skylight, with no better pillow for her head 
than a wooden box, said she was too happy to 
move, and Arthur was sleepy, but I went with 
Mr. Duncan past the forecastle and groups 
of respectful sailors, climbed the ladder to 
the "top-gallant-forecastle," and sat where I 
could see the spray flying up to wash the 



Crossing the Pacific. 103 

feet of the nymph with a lyre in her 
arms, — our figure-head — whose calm, white 
face looks steadily onward, with the same 
undaunted gaze, over wild billows or shining 
ripples. The golden track in which the ship 
had been sailing all the afternoon was changed 
to a sheet of pure silver, and my eyes followed 
it far away toward the great empire where a 
few more days' sailing will bring us. I seemed 
to be looking into the future, as I lost con- 
sciousness of myself and my companion in a 
reverie on what was before us, — experiences 
and acquaintances, perhaps, that will have a 
lasting influence upon my life and Marion's. 
Mr. Duncan's request that I would sing, 
brought me out of my dream, and he went 
to the cabin for my guitar. Marion came back 
with him, and assisted me in making melody 
that rang through the ship. Song after song 
was called for, when. Arthur and Mr. Fordyce 
were added to our audience, and the proximity 
of the musical nymph must have inspired us, 



104 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

for you know our voices are not naturally 
powerful, and we sang that night as if possessed 
with the spirit of Euterpe. Our programme 
ended with Arthur's favorite " Gondolier," 
and I think the evening's entertainment was 
appreciated by all on board the " Lyra." 

To-morrow we must begin to get ready 
for port, by packing sea-garments away, and 
bring out every thin dress we own, in prepara- 
tion for intense heat, and if the present fair 
wind continues, the captain says we shall see 
China in two days. 






CHAPTER V. 

HONG KONG. 

MARION'S STORY. 

Hong Kong Harbor, Mag 18th, 

AM so full of longing to begin at 
lonce to tell you about this wonderful 
China, that going back a few days to connect 
this chronicle with what Amy last wrote 
requires some self-denial, though I am deter- 
mined it shall not be my fault if you lose 
one of our experiences tJ_u£. nay be of interest 
to you. Therefore you must know that last 
Thursday morning the row of islands between 
Hong Kong and the ocean came in sight, and 
our captain committed the daring act (as it 
seemed to us), of going through the Kap-Sin^ 

(105) 



106 Amy and Marioris Voyage. 

Moon Pass, instead of entering the harbor by 
the Yat-Moon Pass, according to the general 
custom of navigators. These passes are rather 
narrow channels that separate the islands, and 
as the winds baffled his attempts to go through 
the Yat-Moon, Arthur announced his determi- 
nation to try the other, although it has a 
dangerous name; a hidden rock lies in the 
middle of it, they say, and he went aloft with 
his glass to see if destruction was ahead, as 
the "Lyra" slowly sailed through Kap-Sing- 
Moon into safe waters. 

I was not the only one on board who drew 
a long breath as we looked back and saw how 
narrow the channel was, and how easily a 
sudden gust of wind might have met and 
turned us back upon the rocks. 

Soon two pilot-boats bore down upon us. 
They were Chinese sampans where families 
reside, knowing no other home than the little 
craft where they cook, eat, sleep, and worship 
their household gods as composedly as if four 



Hong Kong. 107 

square feet of room for each person was an 
ample allotment. They were racing with each 
other, these two pilots, and the one who 
reached his goal first, climbed up to our deck 
like a squirrel, and made fast his floating habi- 
tation to the ship's stern, where two American 
girls leaned over with curious looks to gain 
their first idea of boat life in China. A woman 
sat near the rudder of the boat, and a baby 
hung at her back with a head that bobbed and 
rolled in a manner that threatened dislocation 
of the neck whenever his mother worked the 
scull oar, as she did from time to time, until 
her spouse had made a negotiation with Capt. 
Roslyn, and threw down a rope for her to 
attach to the sampan. 

Early that morning my dear "Yaller" 
emerged from parts unknown after an absence 
of three or four weeks, more grievously 
afflicted than ever, it appeared, for incessant 
were her cries, and her exceeding leanness 
convinced us that she had not come from a 



108 Amy and Marion'' s Voyage. 

region of plenty. Cousin Arthur, the most 
patient and forbearing of men, lost all patience 
with that unreasonable cat, and after mews in 
the saddest minor key had rung for hours in 
his ears, and he, with the rest of us, had 
wasted food and caresses upon the melancholy 
beast, his wrath broke forth: 

" Girls ! I don't know how long you can 
stand this sort of thing, but I am sure that 
Jim's cat and I have been shipmates long 
enough. Shall I give her to the pilot, 
Breezie?" 

"Why, yes," I replied with a pang, at the 
idea of Jim's favorite becoming a stew, pos- 
sibly, for a Chinese family. "If 'Yaller' 
refuses to stop this noise — which is chronic 
now, I 'm afraid, she had better entertain those 
children in the sampan with it; but won't 
they eat her?" 

"I pity them if they do," said the captain, 
emphatically. u Here, John ! You wantchee 
cat?" (holding up my pet by the neck,) 



Hong Kong. 109 

John nodded, and pointed to his children as 
if to say that such a gift would be accept- 
able to them. 

"Don't eat her, then," was the captain's 
warning, as he tied a rope to the cat and 
lowered her into the sampan, where two little 
boys and a girl held out their arms to receive 
their visitor. A grimace passed over the yel- 
low visage of pilot John at the thought of 
the extremities to which his family must be 
reduced ere they should seek to appease the 
cravings of hunger by the bony frame of 
" Yaller," and he shook his head so vehemently 
that I was reassured. The cat settled herself 
on a coil of rope, as her young admirers sur- 
rounded her, and astonishment made her silent 
for a time. Such deeply seated grief as hers 
was not to be appeased by sudden change 
of circumstances, however, and late in the 
night I heard those piteous lamentations 
coming up from the darkness that enveloped 
the sampan. 



110 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

The city lights were visible from our anch- 
orage at one end of the harbor, where we 
stayed until daylight, then moved up among 
a fleet of vessels, and took a position directly 
opposite the city of Victoria. 

Hong Kong Island consists of a chain of 
mountains. The highest of them, Victoria 
Peak, rises to an almost perpendicular height 
of eighteen hundred feet above the settlement 
which bears the same name, and the houses 
are built in regular terraces from the water's 
edge half way up the mountain, where they 
are scattered, and low-roofed bungalows nestle 
under the steep cliff. 

This harbor seems entirely shut in by hills 
like a beautiful lake, for from our station we 
cannot see the pass by which we entered it, 
and I can hardly believe we 'are not land- 
locked by these curious hills. Those in the 
direction of the mainland abound in sand and 
decayed granite, and when the sunlight falls 
clearly upon them they have as many tints as 



Hong Kong. Ill 

a painter's palette. There are few trees to 
be seen anywhere, yet the mountains behind 
the city are saved from rnggedness by a soft, 
grassy covering, and they are deeply indented, 
as if a great hand had stroked them from 
their summits downward, leaving finger-marks. 
On the sparkling green waters of the harbor 
are vessels of every size and nationality. Tall- 
masted clipper ships, English, French and 
German steamers, men-of-war, clumsy junks 
with bamboo sails, row-boats with passengers 
from some vessel to the city, or visitors from 
the city, several of whom favored the " Lyra " 
at an early hour after her anchor had been 
dropped. Amy and I agreed that there could 
not be a brighter, gayer scene than that of 
Hong Kong harbor on the morning of our 
arrival there, and in the bewilderment of 
having so many strange objects to look at 
we saw everything confusedly, as if Aladdin's 
lamp had suddenly raised up a vision of 
enchantment, of which every point must be 



112 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

taken in by eye and mind at once, before it 
should fade as suddenly as it appeared. 

Several gentlemen came on board to pay 
their respects, and one of them brought us 
a kind of Chinese fruit, the lai-chee, which 
he tried to persuade me was eminently re- 
freshing; but I, after taking one of them, 
(about the size of a horse chesnut), breaking 
off the thin reddish shell, and tasting it, was 
much inclined to throw it overboard. I have 
some lingering sense of propriety, however, 
if my friends do not credit me with it, and 
I sta}^ed my hand. 

" You don't like it ! " said our visitor, in 
astonishment. 

"I did n't say so." 

" There was no need to say more than your 
face expressed," he said, laughingly. " In time 
you will prefer the lai-chee to one of your 
American pears." 

"I can never compare it to anything but 
a very sweet onion," I answered, and Amy, 



Hong Kong. 113 

though always more courteous than I in 
making known her opinions, could not help 
showing that in this case they coincided with 
mine. 

" To-morrow I will send you some mangos," 
said the gentleman, " and I want you each to 
eat a whole one before you condemn them, 
for these eastern fruits are unsurpassed by any 
in the world, and only require an educated 
taste to be highly appreciated." 

"I am afraid to promise you that I will 
eat a whole one, if they are very large," said 
I, wishing our acquaintance would keep his 
foreign fruits for himself, if his taste is 
educated to appreciate them. 

The appearance of Chinamen with large 
boxes saved me from making any more uncivil 
remarks. They opened them on the -deck, 
and displayed sandal-wood fans, brooches and 
ear-rings of delicately carved ivory, rice- 
paper pictures, bamboo watch-chains, lacquered 
boxes, and a dozen other things. 



114 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

"How can we speak to them?" I inquired 
of Mr. Day, the gentleman who bestowed the 
lai-chees upon us. 

" You must talk pidgin-English, or in other 
words talk as silly nurse-maids do to little 
children ; put an " ee " on the end of half 
your words, and leave out all your articles 
and prepositions. I will trade for you, and 
show you how to beat down a Chinaman. It 
is quite an art." 

" Please ask Mm, then, how much that little 
carved box is worth." 

" How muchee pricee ? " demanded our inter- 
preter, pointing to it. 

" One dollar quart " ($1.25). 

" One dollar quart ! No can do, John. That 
b'long too muchee pricee. My give you 
fifty cents." 

" How can you " — (have the impudence to 
beat him down to less than half of what he 
asks, was the unspoken part of my sentence, 
and as usual it was written on my face.) 



Hong Kong. 115 

"Oh! you must learn to beat down these 
traders. A Chinaman always asks at least 
half as much again as he knows an article is 
worth, and does not expect to get his price 
unless he has a green customer. He really 
would not respect you if you gave him what 
he demanded at first, "Fifty cents" he re- 
peated with emphasis." 

" One dollar," said the Chinaman, coming 
down a little. " Fifty cents ! " " Seventy-five 
cents ? " said the trader pathetically, but a 
stern repetition of " Fifty cents," reduced him 
to submission. "All light! You takee," was 
his concession, and I felt as if I had robbed 
him when he handed the box to Mr. Day, 
who put it in my hand. 

"You need not be troubled," he said. No 
Chinaman would ever lose by a bargain of this 
kind, and as he lets you have it for fifty 
cents, you may be sure he makes a profit 
on it. 

"I don't see how I can ever bring myself 



116 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

to ' grind the faces ' of the heathen in that 
manner," was my rejoinder. 

"You will be cheated out of a great deal 
of cash if you do not," said Mr. Day, evidently 
considering me the most obstinate and intract- 
able of young women. 

The captain and mates joined the group 
around the box of "curios," (everything that 
a foreigner in China would be likely to buy 
for presentation to friends at home is called 
" curio "), and Mr. Fordyce, with his usual 
recklessness, seemed inclined to buy half the 
man's stock, and to lavish it upon Amy and 
me, reserving some trinkets to take home to 
his sisters ; but with the sternness of a judi- 
cious parent I bade him save his money for 
sensible purchases, and refused to accept any- 
thing but a tiny charm for my watch-chain. 

The noontide heat made us realize that we 
were indeed in China, and sent "Amy down 
into the cool cabin, while I stayed on deck to 
enjoy it. The great wall of mountains seemed 



Hong Kong. 117 

to reflect the absorbed beat of months upon 
the harbor ; and Victoria Peak, where the 
grass grows scantily near its summit, and a 
ledge of rock shines with moisture from some 
little rill, resembled a giant with perspiring 
forehead. 

All sorts of characters came on board that 
day; shoemakers, tailors, washerwomen, mer- 
chants or clerks from the great business 
houses ; captains from neighboring vessels, 
and we had no chance to go ashore, even if 
we had been allowed to do so. "You shall 
see enough of Hong Kong," our captain 
promised us, "but I do not want_ you to 
go about in the city before you are somewhat 
accustomed to Asiatic heat which, even here, 
with the harbor breeze, makes Amy look like 
a wilted white petunia. To-morrow you shall 
ride to church in a sedan-chair." With this 
novel prospect we retired on that Saturday 
night when our last caller had departed. He 
was a middle-aged captain, and discoursed to 



118 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

Arthur of jib-booms and studding-sails, while 
I lost consciousness of him in a bamboo 
reclining chair, and mortified my cousins by 
two startling snores. 

Sunday morning was bright and hot, and 
every vessel had on its gayest attire of flags. 
A Bethel flag floated from the "Lyra's" 
mast-head as a notice to our neighbors that 
religious services were to be held on board, 
and the captain and second mate of the 
barque " Hazelton " were added to our usual 
audience. At ten, we girls with Arthur and 
Mr. Fordyce were rowed ashore to attend 
church. On one of the many stone landings 
that are built upon the Praya (a wide street, 
by the waterside), we encountered a crowd 
of coolies with bare legs and great hats, and 
their sedan-chairs ready to receive us. Imagine 
a cane seat in a box, shaded by a canopy ; two 
long poles, of which the ends rest upon the 
shoulders of Chinamen (after the occupant 
has walked into it backward, as a horse goes 



Hong Kong. 119 

into the carriage-shafts), and yon know what 
a sedan-chair is; but the delights of riding in 
one can never be approached by the imagina- 
tion. Two pidgin English commands mnst be 
employed for this mode of travel. If yonr 
bearers are pattering along at too lively a pace, 
yon call " Man-man ! " and they slacken their 
speed ; if you want them to go faster, yon say 
" Chop-chop ! " If yonr desire is to stop, yon 
pound on the side of the chair that is nearest 
the place where they shall halt, and repeat 
" Man-man " in a tone of decision. 

We wended our way up, up, up, to Dr. 
Leggs's beautiful chapel on one of the higher 
terraces, passing through narrow streets, where 
the noise of business went on as though there 
were no such day as Sunday, and when seated 
in the marble-paved building, through whose 
stone arches the song of birds and the rustle 
of leaves stole in, a quiet accompaniment to 
the minister's voice, I heard also a far-off hum 
of heathen life from the toiling world below. 



120 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

" God is our refuge and strength, a very 
present help in trouble. Therefore will not we 
fear though the earth be removed, and though 
the mountains be carried into the midst of 
the sea." That psalm was read from the pulpit, 
and never before had the words impressed me 
with such solemnity, and at the same time as 
such a cause for rejoicing. 

After church we found our coolies in 
attendance with the chairs, and they carried 
us down from the peaceful chapel under the 
mountain's shadow to the boat landing, whence 
our " Skimmer," propelled by its crew of 
boys, shot over the half mile of water to 
the " Lyra's " anchorage. 

In the afternoon Arthur invited me to 
attend the Chinese service with him in the 
same church, Union Chapel, it is called, and 
we made the voyage to the city in a sampan 
for the sake of novelty. Arthur hailed one 
that was floating near us, and asked the 




Hong Kong Woman. — Page 120. 



Hong Kong. 123 

proprietor how many he had on board, — 
meaning the number of oarsmen. 

"Seven piecee man," was the prompt 
rejoinder, and we thought that so many 
pairs of arms would take us ashore in good 
time, but found when we were seated in the 
cabin (a square hole in the deck sheltered 
by a bamboo awning) that " seven piecee man " 
included the mother of the family, with her 
infant slung around her neck, a girl of about 
eighteen years, and two small boys, beside 
the man himself and his elder sons. Our 
progress was not rapid, and when a heavy 
yellow sail was hoisted, the sampan lay over 
so far that I kept sliding off my seat, and 
the water splashed up on the deck. Novelty 
atones for many inconveniences, sometimes, 
and I was interested in watching the Chinese 
family, especially the girl, who sat near me, 
rowing with bare, muscular arms that looked 
as if their owner was used to doing the work 
of at least " one piecee man." She was so 



124 Amy and Mariorts Voyage. 

miserable and neglected, this poor girl, with 
her soiled, ragged dress, rough, uncovered 
head, and a face expressive of nothing but 
a heavy discontent, that I longed to say a 
kind word to her, but of course I could not, 
and I tried to show my interest in her by 
a friendly smile when she looked at me. 
She observed me with astonishment, and her 
hard face softened a little as she moved her 
oar with renewed vigor. 

Ten cents for each passenger is the usual 
sampan fare, and Arthur gave the man 
twenty-five cents when we landed, yet his 
avaricious soul was not satisfied, and he 
loudly clamored for more, no doubt thinking 
that we, having lately arrived at Hong Kong, 
might be easily cheated. We left him grumb- 
ling on the wharf, and, waving off numerous 
chair-coolies, who were importunate as hack- 
men in a depot, bent our steps towards the 
chapel. 

There are so many things to observe during 



Hong Kong. 125 

our walk that I hardly realized how very 
hot I was. Groups of men sat in shady 
places on the street corners, playing some 
kind of game with small stones or coins. 
From their deep absorption in it we judged 
them to be gambling.. 

Little girls played about with heavy babies 
fastened on their backs, and my wonder was 
aroused by the proper behavior of these 
Chinese infants, who never seemed to mind 
if their heads did swing like pendulums 
during the progress of their sisters' pastime, 
but blinked their narrow black eyes in resig- 
nation to the ills of life, as if sustained 
under them by the wisdom of Confucius. I 
didn't pity them, after all, but my heart 
and back ached in sympathy with the poor 
little maidens, who, at the age of eight, 
begin to learn a Chinese woman's hard lot 
of servitude, and have to carry burdens 
even at their play. 

Women stood in the door-ways enjoying 



126 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

tlieir afternoon gossip but no white ladies 
were taking their walks abroad, and the 
stares I encountered led us to conclude that 
it is not the custom here for them to 
do so. 

About fifty Chinese were assembled in the 
cool, quiet chapel to hear a sermon in their 
own language, which failed to edify me, 
though it gave me pleasure to observe their 
faces while they listened to better things 
than the crowds below have knowledge of; 
and the earnest, intelligent look of many 
made me sure that the truth was making 
light within them ; — only a glimmering light 
in some hearts, perhaps, yet even a spark 
makes a great change where utter darkness 
once reigned.. " Eock of Ages " was sung 
in closing the services, and I could not 
help joining in softly with our English 
words, knowing their meaning to be the 
same as that expressed in the strange tongue 
of my Chinese brothers and sisters. 



Hong Kong. 127 

As they passed out, kindly greetings seemed 
to be exchanged, and I noticed one woman 
tenderly helping another, whose tiny, pinched 
feet, made walking down the steep hill both 
dangerous and painful to her. A "little 
flock," truly, were these compared with the 
thousands of idolaters in the city ; neverthe- 
less to them belongs the promise of "the 
kingdom." 

On Monday morning a basket of mangos 
came with Mr. Day's compliments. They are 
large, oval fruit, with bright yellow skins, flat 
stones, and a peculiar flavor, reminding me so 
much of a paint-shop that I was glad I had 
not promised to eat a whole one. Amy took 
a fancy to them, and not discerning any flavor 
of turpentine, accused me of having too much 
imagination, but I have heard the same idea 
expressed by other people who are not fond 
of them. 

Traders flocked on board all the morning, 
and we should have been well cheated if Mr. 



128 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

Duncan had not come to the rescue, preventing 
us from buying ornaments of -common bone, 
which we had been earnestly assured were 
made of the finest ivory, and putting us on 
our guard against the wily arts of the 
heathen. 

After dinner callers came, and I was pleas- 
antly engaged in conversation with one of 
them, a native of the " Hub," when a flash 
of brass buttons suddenly illumined our cabin, 
as three officers from the man-of-war " Ariadne " 
walked in. One of them was dark, slender, 
romantic-looking, like the heroes of a certain 
class of novels, whose aim in life is to elope 
with blondes, and run their swords through 
the bodies of their rivals. (My simile is drawn 
from unprofitable perusals of very light litera- 
ture in the days of early youth). One had 
a pleasant, 'boyish face, and the third was 
stout, good-natured, and not far from the 
meridian of life. They gave us a cordial 
welcome to the harbor of Hong Kong, and 



Hong Kong. 129 

declared themselves refreshed by the sight of 
two new young ladies, as for months their 
vessel had been lying in these waters, and 
every spectacle that the city affords had lost 
its novelty to them long ago, they said; and 
when Amy told them that neither her cousin 
nor herself had ever set foot on the deck 
of a man-of-war, delight was expressed in their 
countenances. I am sure they thought that 
rare entertainment was provided for them in 
the chance of showing off the naval depart- 
ment to the uninitiated. They were certainly 
in a condition to be " tickled by a straw," if 
we could thus be the humble means of raising 
their spirits, and glad to be useful in the 
world, even to navy officers, we received with 
friendliness, their promises to be very neigh- 
borly, and accepted, with our captain's ap- 
proval, their offer to come on the following 
afternoon, and take us on board the " Ariadne " 
in style. 

When callers had left us to our own devices, 



130 Amy and MariorCs Voyage. 

we went ashore to see the city more satisfacto- 
rily than the sedan rides to church had shown 
it to us on Sunday. The usual " scrimmage " 
with chair coolies was undergone upon the 
landing steps, and as it was impossible for 
each of us to occupy more than one chair, only 
six Chinamen were made happy, and many 
discomfited, as we proceeded along the Praya 
into a square where stands the City Hall, 
a handsome edifice, and near it is a space 
enclosed for a cricket ground; then past the 
barracks, up a shady, hilly road to the moun- 
tains. We saw a brook running along at the 
base of one of them, where much of the city 
laundry-work is done, and the hill-side was 
white with the clothes laid out to dry 
there. 

Going through a great gate, and leaving our 
conveyances outside, we mounted wide stone 
steps, and found ourselves in the Public 
Garden, where on Thursday afternoons the 
English band plays, and the residents of 



Song Kong, 131 

Hong Kong promenade. There I got into 
one of my ecstasies over the harbor view 
which lay below us, and sat down to indulge 
in it, but I was hurried off to my chair to be 
borne higher yet, through roads that twist and 
turn about under those towering green 
heights. The houses of the aristocracy are 
there; cool stone buildings, in the arches of 
whose wide verandahs birds twitter, and plants 
wave their great leaves, and one looks out 
over bamboos that half hide the city roofs, 
sees the fleet in the harbor, and the far-away 
hills of China, and thinks how very good 
ought to be the people who live amid such 
loveliness. Thus it was with me yesterday 
when we took tiffin (lunch) at one of these 
houses. The hostess was an English lady, 
kindly disposed toward the brown-faced sailor- 
girls, but exceedingly quiet and reserved, and 
I felt as if I were walking about in an 
immense Chinese workbox (the house smelt 
like one), and was not at my ease all the 



132 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

afternoon. Polished floors, tall vases, lacquer 
work were everywhere, a punkah fanned us 
at table, butter was passed in a bottle and 
taken out with a spoon ; Chinamen, clad in 
pure white, served us noiselessly, rice and 
curried chicken were the chief substantials, 
and lai-chees the ornamentals ; and I, com- 
mon-place Marion Gilmer from Boston, felt in 
a vague way out of place among such foreign 
surroundings ; feared to open my lips, lest 
some sea phrase or Yankee inaccuracy of 
speech should grate upon the ears of the 
English lady, and yearned for the " Lyra's " 
cabin and solid dinner of " lobscouse " and 
beans. 

Amy enjoyed everything (except the melted 
butter), and fitted in with her surroundings 
in a ladylike manner. The elegancies of life 
never fluster her, and they couldn't do it if 
she should return to them after years of 
uncivilized life on prairies or ocean. 

On the afternoon appointed for our visit 



Kong Kong. 133 

to the " Ariadne," a large, cushioned boat, 
manned by ten oarsmen, was in attendance 
at the gangway, and accompanied, of course, 
by Arthur, we went to fulfil our engagement 
with the officers. The novel hero, Lieut. 
Neufville, came for us, and the others received 
us on board the man-of-war, which is not an 
imposing vessel, but all her appointments 
were new to us and very interesting. 

The men went through some of their 
exercises at the guns, and after watching them, 
and walking up and down the beautifully 
clean decks, we were taken clown into the 
dark mess-room where the sailors live, and 
through the engine-room, bringing up finally at 
the ward-room, and , there we sat down to be 
entertained by the officers with things belong- 
ing especially to their own domain. Albums 
and large collections of foreign views were 
looked over, but they were nothing at all in 
comparison with a sketch-book of Lieut. Neuf- 
ville's, which displayed an artistic and sarcastic 



134 Amy and Mariorfs Voyage. 

talent truly remarkable. One could have 
wished the sarcasm to have been omitted in 
some instances, as in a picture of a pretty 
girl riding in a sedan-chair, which was entitled 
" The Young Missionary and the Benighted 
Heathen." Now I could see no reason why 
those who come out to China to do the 
heathen good should not have their strength 
saved by occasional rides, and the honest 
calling of the chair-coolie is rendered no 
more degrading by the carrying of mission- 
aries than of officers or merchants ; but that 
picture implied on the part of the sketcher 
a hint of inconsistency on the part of mis- 
sionaries, and it called forth a remark 
from me which led us . into a deep argu- 
ment on the responsibility of the heathen, and 
whether the work of missions is entirely 
useless and unprofitable. I need not tell 
you that this position was not mine. To 
the best of my ability I withstood it ; but in 
truth, dear friend, I never thought much about 



Hong Kong. 185 

the heathen till I came here, and although 
not believing one of my opponent's words, I 
could not answer them with the wisdom of one 
who had, considered the matter, and I was 
growing hotter in that ward-room than a 
burning sun could have made me, both from 
indignation at the lieutenant's sophistries, and 
my own inability to say the right thing, when 
relief came in the form of ice-cream. While 
we partook of that luxury, a waiter-boy stood 
behind my chair and helped on the cooling 
process with a large palm-leaf fan, and my 
equanimity was restored in- less than fifteen 
minutes, yet I could not dismiss the grave 
subject from my mind. As we were rowed 
back to the "Lyra" I told myself that to 
gain a clear understanding of what the Bible 
reveals to us with regard to our duties towards 
God and man, is more important than to learn 
to follow the windings of a skeptical reasoning 
which has no more substance than a puff of 
smoke, when one tries to grasp and hold it. 



136 Amy and Marion? s Voyage. 

The question uppermost with, us at present 
concerns a visit to Canton. We certainly must 
see a purely Chinese city before we sail for 
the Phillipine Islands; and Hong Kong, where 
the English element is strong, will not give 
us all the ideas of the Chinese Empire we 
wish to gain. 

A kind letter came recently from one of the 
Canton missionaries, Mr. Worthington, who 
had heard of us through friends of his in 
New York whom we know well, and he invites 
us to visit him ; so it is decided that a week 
must be devoted to Canton, and we shall go 
there in a day or two. Arthur does not care to 
leave the ship for a whole week, but he will 
send Mr. Duncan with us, and come himself 
a few days later. 

This letter is finished just in time for the 
Pacific Mail steamer, which comes in about the 
fourth of every month, and leaves near the 
twelfth. The " America " was the one that 
came in this month, and we went on board 



Hong Kong. 137 

of her to take breakfast. Suck a steamer I 
never saw before, or even thought of seeing! 
A grand hotel floating on the water, she might 
almost be compared to, and it made my 
patriotism rise to a high degree when I 
watched her steaming through Ly-Moon Pass. 
She brought us a dear, long letter from you, 
which we have not finished reading yet, though 
every word of it will soon be as familiar as 
"The House that Jack Built." Arthur calls 
for selections from it when he wants to be 
entertained, and then laughs as much as if 
he understood every one of the standard jokes 
that are only appreciated by a school-girl's 
intellect. 

Farewell till next mail. But it will be 
Amy's turn to write, then, won't it? and I 
shall have other letters to send, so I may write 
next from Manila, or ILoilo, or whatever out- 
landish place the "Lyra" is ordered to, and 
until then, farewell. 

Mabion. 




CHAPTER VI. 



TRIP TO CANTON 




Hong Kong Harbor, June kth. 

WEEK in Canton has given me mate- 
rials for a volume, which, even if not 
of much interest to the public, would be 
perused without weariness, I believe, by the 
partial eye of friendship. I will content myself 
with something short of a volume, however, 
and try to write this letter to you, my dear 
girl, within the proper limits. 

You must follow in spirit your two friends, 
as with Mr. Duncan, on the morning of May 
twenty-fifth, they were quietly steaming up 
the Canton river in a drizzling rain. From the 

(138) 






k ife^^i.iijiiili'j 




Trip to Canton. 141 

windows of the pilot-house we looked out 
upon the yellow stream, the fresh green of 
rice-fields along the banks, the darker, shining 
foliage of the trees, and a tall pagoda rising 
up here and there. We passed the village of 
Whampoa, whose neighboring hills are covered 
with rows of Chinese tombs, and in the middle 
of the afternoon arrived at Canton, where we 
. saw the heathen world in full force on the 
landing, and crowds of boats. 

Mr. Worthington met us, and took us in 
a sampan to his house, a dreary, blackish edifice 
on the edge of the canal. Passing through 
a ground-floor that was very cellar-like, we 
ascended a flight of stairs into cheerful rooms, 
and there stood the missionary family with 
warm greetings for the visitors from their own 
far-off land. 

Mr. Worthington is a scholarly-looking man, 
whose careworn face shows the traces of many 
toiling years, and is rather stern in its gravity ; 
but when one of his little daughters clasps his 



142 Amy and Marion's Voyage, 

hand with a loving, upward glance, or when 
he turns to one of us to say some kind word, 
a beaming smile irradiates every feature. His 
wife is just what one would suppose a mission- 
ary's wife ought to be, — a true lady with 
genial tact and quiet self-possession; and the 
children, though perfectly unaffected in their 
manners, had such a way of assuming their 
responsibility in our entertainment as family 
guests, that I regarded them with pleased 
surprise, and decided that there must be 
something in the influence around the children 
of missionaries that gives them a thoughtful- 
ness and maturity beyond their years. 

But the eldest daughter ! How can I describe 
her? Faith Worthington is much younger 
than I am, a year or two younger than Marion, 
and no more like any other girl of seventeen 
whom I have known than a broad, deep river 
is like a noisy, shallow brook. There seems to 
be an unfathomable depth in Faith — in those 
blue eyes of hers, in the calm, fair face that 



Trip to Canton. 143 

to me ever expresses one Bible verse : " Thou 
wilt keep him in perfect peace whose mind is 
-stayed on Thee." That, peace is unruffled by- 
weariness or the din of heathendom outside 
the windows. 

"How can you study Chinese with such a 
noise always in your ears ? " I asked, and they 
acknowledged the difficulty. 

"But," said little Agnes, "you know it is 
never going to stop, except at night, and the 
studying must be done, for though we have 
talked Chinese from our cradles, we have to 
work hard to learn the written language." I 
could not doubt it, recalling the mysterious 
characters on tea-chests and packages of fire- 
crackers. 

In the evening the weekly missionary prayer- 
meeting was held at Mr. Worthington's, and 
about ten ladies and gentlemen came in with as 
little formality as if they were members of one 
family. They are, in fact, united by a tie even 
stronger than that of kindred, — the same deep 



144 Amy and Mariorfs Voyage. 

interest in their Master's work which has led 
them to give up houses, and brethren, and 
lands for His sake and the gospel's. "We were 
welcomed by them most warmly, as if they 
considered us representatives of the Christian 
friends whose prayers in behalf of foreign 
missions ascend from the churches of America. 
I have been to some missionary prayer- 
meetings at home that were rather dull, it 
must be confessed. The pastor would call on 
" Brother G." to " give us some information 
with regard to the Mahratta mission," but the 
brother had not received his Missionary Herald 
in time to prepare for the meeting, and there 
was a general lack of information that was 
depressing. In the prayers for the conversion 
of the heathen there was not always apparent 
an intense realization of their need, and I 
recalled those by-gone Sunday evenings, as we 
knelt with that devoted little company of 
laborers, and heard the earnest outpouring 
of their requests as those who felt their 



Trip to Canton. 145 

feebleness, yet were strong in the promise 
" Lo I am . with yon alway." So much was 
expressed of the comfort they felt in know- 
ing that many in America were praying for 
them, that I said to myself, "When I go 
home I will tell every one I know to pray 
more for missionaries than they ever did 
before." 

The return of daylight was a relief after 
a night disturbed by heat, mosquitos, the 
cries of watchmen who walk the streets, — 
making at intervals a fearful din (to warn 
evil-doers of their approach, and kindly allow 
them time for escape), and the squeals of 
quadrupeds in the next building, a pig- 
market. 

I went into the verandah to watch Canton 
life swarming on the sidewalk which separates 
the house from the muddy canal, and found 
yet greater interest in the sampans wedged 
side by side in a long row. There, children 
frolic and are disciplined by the parental 



146 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

hand. Wooden bottles hang at the waists 
of some of them to increase their chances 
of escape from drowning when they tumble 
overboard. 

" There must be a wedding in the sampan 
that lies nearest the landing steps," said 
Agnes. 

" What makes you think so ? " 

" There seems to be something going on 
there, and I heard a girl's voice wailing for 
a long time in the night. That is what 
they always do on the night before they 
are married." 

" Because they are going to have such a 
hard time," added Mattie, the youngest 
Worthington. 

"Do they have a wedding ceremony?" 

" These boat people do not go through so 
many forms as those of a higher class," 
Faith told us. " For three days their friends 
visit them, and a pig is generally roasted 
(that means about the same as wedding 



Trip to Canton. 147 

cake), and at some time during the three 
days the young couple do obeisance before 
the ancestral tablets; but first the bride 
leaves her father's boat and goes to a new 
home, to scrub and row harder than ever 
in her girlhood. Do you wish to pay this 
bride a visit ? " 

"Will she like it?" 

" Oh yes ! it will be considered an honor," 
said Mrs. Worthington, and six of us went 
down to the canal, leaving Mr. Duncan to 
survey the scene from the verandah, as 
Marion vetoed his accompanying us for the 
reason that he would take up more room 
than three people of moderate size, and might 
upset the bridal sampan. I wonder now 
that we all could have packed ourselves 
into that little boat, but we did, and sat in 
Turkish attitudes to take up less space, while 
the bride, clad in flaming red, with chenille 
flowers towering above her shining black hair, 
came forward at her mother-in-law's bidding 



148 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

and saluted us with reverential courtesies, 
then handed a tray of refreshments — little 
squares of cake, and tea without milk or 
sugar, in what looked like doll's cups. The 
cake was abominable in the extreme, and I 
ate it with a spirit of politeness at a great 
personal sacrifice, and partook of the tea. 
Mrs. Worthington suggested afterwards that 
it was probably made with the muddy canal 
water, and I was grateful to her for not put- 
ting the idea into my head before. All the 
politeness requisite to such an occasion we 
left to the ladies and children who spoke 
Chinese, and contented ourselves with smil- 
ing graciously at the bride and her mother. 

A group of men collected on the sidewalk 
to see us go up the landing steps and enter 
the house, and a general excitement seemed 
to prevail in the vicinity of the sampan 
which had been so honored. 

An English clergyman, Archdeacon Gra}^, 
called to see us, and kindly offered his services 



Trip to Canton. 149 

as a guide about the city, for lie is well 
known and popular among the Chinese, and 
has access to some places that few foreigners 
are privileged to enter. 

We set out in chairs that afternoon, Mr. 
Duncan, Marion, and I, our reverend guide 
leading the procession through the narrow 
streets, most of them about six feet in 
width, and full of people. Our first halt 
was at the house of one of the Chinese 
aristocracy, whose owner had given the 
Archdeacon permission to show strangers over 
his mansion during his absence at the Impe- 
rial Court. There were lofty halls orna- 
mented with gilding and carving, the green- 
ness of conservatories appeared through high 
latticed windows. After walking through 
many rooms, we came to a court, on the 
other side of which were the lady's apart- 
ments, and a group of female slaves stood 
there, smiling and staring at us. Mr. Gray 
told us to go into the boudoir while he 



150 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

waited with Mr. Duncan on the other side 
of the court. After a little hesitation at 
what seemed like the coolest kind of impu- 
dence, and passing the great lady herself 
we surveyed her rooms, while she surveyed 
us with timid interest, and did not look at 
all affronted by our bold proceedings. 

The next stopping-place was at an " opium 
divan," a dark room like a tomb, furnished 
with settees, where were extended several poor 
wretches in different stages of stupefaction. 

There were so many things to arrest our 
attention that we did not resume our chairs 
at once, but walked along the dark alleys 
with about thirty Chinese at our heels, who 
stopped whenever we did, and stared at us 
Avithout ceremony, yet not rudely. A china- 
shop was visited, and wonders in the way 
of painted vases and dishes were shown us ; 
then we looked in at a flour-mill, where the 
grinding was performed in the most primitive 
manner by buffaloes walking in a circle and 



Trip to Canton. 151 

causing one great stone to revolve upon 
another. 

" Do you see that sign ? " asked the Arch- 
deacon, stopping before what appeared to be 
a butcher's shop, and pointing to a gilt 
lettered board. " I will translate it for you — 
4 Black cats always for sale here.' Over this 
stall is a cat and dog refreshment saloon. 
"Will you come up, young ladies ? " 

We turned our astonished gaze from the 
counter on which a man was chopping up 
a dog's tail in delicate slices, as if it were 
a Bologna sausage, and went up-stairs to see 
people eating hot stews that had a peculiar, 
though not unsavory smell. 

" What are you eating ? " inquired the 
Archdeacon, taking up one man's saucer. 
"Black cat," was the answer translated to 
us. Another man, on being similarly ques- 
tioned, replied, " Dog," with a grin implying 
that he knew such fare was not common, 
even among his countrymen, in polite circles. 



152 Amy and Marion's Voyage, 

" I wished you to be able to tell your friends 
in America that you nave actually witnessed 
this thing," said the Archdeacon as we 
gladly followed him down the winding stairs. 

Then began a tour among the temples. 
First to the Temple of Letters, where the 
effigies of the authors of letters and of the 
printing art are enthroned in state; next, to 
the Temple of the Five Hundred Genii, a 
great building, where one wanders through 
a labyrinth of galleries, courts, and rooms. 
We sat in the visitors' hall, and were 
served with clear tea and dried fruit, while 
the rain poured down into a courtyard upon 
which the hall opened, washing the leaves 
of tropical plants growing there. After a little 
rest, one of -the monks showed us the five 
hundred wooden figures who sit in a ghostly 
row around a large, dark room. They are 
the images of those who were devoted to the 
service of Buddha while on earth, and in a 




Image of luddh?. — Page 152. 



Trip to Canton. 155 

great case was the gilded figure of the god 
himself. 

As I stood in that gloomy room, and heard 
deep tones of thunder echoing through the 
building, it seemed to me like the voice of God 
expressing His displeasure at all idol worship,, 
and I thanked Him there with all my heart that 
He had led me to know Him, the only true God, 
as a Father and a Saviour. 

In another room was a tall pagoda looming up 
through the darkness, with an image of some 
deity sitting in every story. It rained so heavily 
that we waited in one of the courts, where the 
monks treated us with great politeness, and gave 
us more tea, a refreshment that I, for one, could 
have dispensed with, my throat and tongue hav- 
ing been well scalded before, for hot tea, minus 
milk, to one unused to it, is very fiery in its 
effects. Our little parasols caused much amuse- 
ment to the monks, who, on being allowed to 
examine them, burst into peals of wondering 
laughter. One of them pointed to Mr. Gray's 



156 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

umbrella, and said, " That I can understand, but 
is this really an umbrella ? " 

" It is of no use to wait for the rain to cease," 
said the Archdeacon finally, and we took our 
chairs again and went on to the Temple of 
Longevity. There we were received by another 
party of monks in a room of which one whole 
side opened on a pond, surrounded by green 
bushes, and nearly covered with floating lotus 
leaves. More tea was given us (hotter, if possi- 
ble, than that partaken of in the other temples), 
also preserved lai-chees and ginger. A venerable 
monk was seized with curiosity concerning 
Marion's dress, a white picque*, and stole quietly 
up to lay an examining finger upon it, but 
meeting an expression of reproval in the Arch- 
deacon's face, he drew back, and contented 
himself with asking some questions about us, 
which met with a grave response. "We then 
visited the God of Longevity in another room, 
and returned to Mr. Worthington's through 
gathering darkness and descending showers. 



Trip to Canton. 159 

Once, when the rest of our party, preceding me, 
had disappeared around a corner, a feeling of 
loneliness took strong hold of me, and a fear that 
I might be carried off by my coolies ; but it was 
suddenly put to flight by a remembrance of the 
psalm that describes the idols of the heathen, 
"the work of men's hands," and then exhorts 
Israel to " trust in the Lord." Peace came to me 
in the gloomy street as I went on, thinking " I 
will fear no evil, for Thou art with me," and 
soon we reached the hospitable dwelling by the 
canal, where Faith was watching for us at the 
door. 

For the next day, a visit at another missionary 
home was planned, and we walked through the 
city to a pleasant house near the river, where we 
dined, after visiting the mission hospital across 
the way. The wife of the physician who has the 
charge of it showed us over the building, and 
took us into a neat little chapel, where those 
needing medical advice, while waiting for Dr. 
Kerr to attend to their poor ailing bodies, are in- 



160 Amy and Marions Voyage, 

duced to listen to a native teacher, as lie leads 
them to consider their souls' health. 

Our kind conductor of the previous afternoon 
had promised to call at four o'clock to show us a 
few more temples, and after a very social dinner, 
we went out into the heat and glare to increase 
our stock of Chinese information. One place 
we were warned against by some of our lady 
friends. " Don't go into the ' Chamber of Hor- 
rors' if you can help it," they said, and the 
caution only made Marion determined to see a 
place whose title and associations were so grim. 
I have not a taste for horrors myself, but thought 
we might safely trust the Archdeacon to show us 
no unprofitable sights, and forgot all about the 
the matter in a visit to the Examination Hall. 

Passing through a building that was much 
like a temple, we found beyond it a grassy court 
with long rows of what look like horse-sheds, but 
they are really cells for 17,000 men who come 
here every three years to be examined for the 
degrees of A.M. and B.A. Subjects for essays 



Trip to Canton. 161 

are appointed by judges, and each competitor is 
shut up in a cell with pen and paper to try for 
an honor whose glory will be reflected upon his 
posterity, if he succeeds in gaining it. Some- 
times a man is found dead in his cell from the 
effects of a long mental strain. 

It was a very quiet place that afternoon, and I 
wandered over the soft green sward, and in and 
out of the cells, looking up at the floating clouds, 
and dreamily imagining the eager ambition, the 
bitter disappointment in the hearts of thousands 
who in past years came to this arena for mental 
combat; thinking of the exultant pride with 
which many had departed, bearing the coveted 
honor, the reward of their toil, and then had left 
it inscribed on marble tablets, for their sons to 
glory in, while in spiritual darkness their souls 
passed away from earthly scenes. Ah, how hard 
we work in this world to gain a little, and how 
soon we have to give it up when gained ! The 
Chinese, whose ambition leads them here, know 
nothing of "a better and an enduring substance," 



162 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

but in lands where people do know of it, many 
spend their lives in ignoring that knowledge and 
striving painfully after what they must lose. 
That seems the saddest thing. 

Thus musing, I strolled on, almost forgetting 
the rest of my party, and came face to face with 
a being so hideous that I started back, half 
believing it to be the embodied spirit of the 
hatred and despair that reign in this place every 
three years ; but it was only an old woman who 
wanted " cash," the smallest of coins, and held 
out her skinny hand with a leer that fairly made 
me cold. 

" Miss Amy ! " called Mr. Duncan, and came to 
find me. "Has this old lady fastened you here 
by a spell?" 

"Something like it," said I, with a sudden 
sense of relief, and walking back to the " Judges' 
Hall " with him. " Did you ever see such faces 
as these old Chinese women have ? Yet many of 
the young ones are really pleasing." 

" These poor souls have had nothing in their 



Trip to Canton. 163 

lives to look back upon with any solid satisfac- 
tion, and have nothing to look forward to, ac- 
cording to their priests, but life hereafter in the 
shape of animals," said my companion, " and a 
miserable old age shows itself in their faces." 

" Do they believe that ? " I asked. 

" Yes, Mr. Worthington told me that when a 
a woman dies they suppose her soul will pass into 
the body of some animal, and after many changes, 
as from the meanest animal to the noblest, she 
will at length become a man." 

" Then she can really enjoy some privileges," 
said I, rather amused, yet sad at the thought of 
my poor Chinese sisters and their degradation. 

"Everything is turned upside down on this 
side of the world," said Mr. Duncan. "In 
America, if we believed in the transmigration of 
souls, we should say that the men must pass 
through many changes and much discipline be- 
fore they could be worthy to become women." 

" Do you mean that for a sarcasm on the 
Woman's Rights question ? " I inquired, inward- 



164 Amy and Marion s Voyage. 

\j reproving myself for imputing sarcasm to one 
in whose composition there is no shade of it. 

" I only meant to express my honest opinion 
that your sex is ahead of mine in most of the 
virtues," replied " our mate," in a tone that con- 
veyed some reproach to me for misunderstanding 
him, and then we all resumed our chairs, leaving 
Examination Hall and its spectral women be- 
hind us. 

Next upon the Archdeacon's programme came 
a great temple consecrated to the God of Walled 
Cities, and there for the first time we saw idol 
worship, as we passed a kneeling figure, and 
heard him muttering his supplications to an ugly 
image. The Archdeacon had the great privilege 
of taking us up into the god's bedroom, a place 
so sacred that few Chinese, even, are permitted 
to enter it, except on special occasions ; and 
there were beds, washstands, shoes, and clothes 
for the colossal images, the God of Walled Cities 
and wife, who sit there grimly regarding the in- 
truders upon their seclusion. Many a new dress 



Trip to Canton. 165 

or pair of shoes, does the goddess receive from 
ladies whose prayers are supposed to have been 
graciously answered by her. 

Coming out of this temple we saw the " Cham- 
ber of Horrors," a court with ten cells in it, and 
in each ■ cell were represented by little wooden 
figures the tortures to be expected by wicked 
people in the next world ; some being smothered, 
some boiled or ground in pieces, and finally at 
the tenth world appearing in the form of wild 
animals. In every cell were the spirits of good 
men (all wooden) serenely regarding these tor- 
tures from an elevated position upon what are 
called " Heights of the Blessed." Thus even the 
heathen seem to know there is a difference be- 
tween right and wrong. I wonder if that is what 
Paul meant when he spoke of " their consciences 
meanwhile accusing or else excusing one an- 
other." 

M arion was disappointed in the Chamber of 
Horrors, and finding more comedy than tragedy 
in the aspect of the wooden sufferers, felt herself 



166 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

aggrieved by those ladies who had so greatly 
raised her expectations. 

The Temple of the God of War was the grand- 
est one we visited. Stately trees shaded its court- 
yard, and the slanting rays of the sun flickered 
through their leaves upon strange and ancient 
architecture. 

"This is the Street of the Dead," said the 
Archdeacon, as we wended our way through a 
street where stores on either hand were stocked 
with fans, shoes, pipes — all sorts of wares gener- 
ally desired by the living. 

" All these things are bought for the dead, and 
are put into their coffins, or in the tombs, under the 
supposition that the spirit, wherever he may be, 
will take pleasure in using them," explained our 
reverend friend. He then took us up a lofty 
flight of steps leading directly from the street to 
the clock-tower, where we saw a real water-clock. 
You will understand by the name that the time 
is indicated in some way by the dropping of 
water, and that is all I know about it, for I was 



Trip to Canton. 167 

then too tired to listen to any explanations, and 
wearily leaned over the parapet of the tower to 
look down upon the great citj r spread out be- 
neath us, growing more weary at the thought of 
all the toil going on there. 

" Oh, another temple ! " I sighed to Marion, 
as Archdeacon Gray told Mr. Duncan that we 
must not fail to see the Temple of the Five 
Genii, who, as the tradition goes, once came to 
this city seated on five rams, and brought pros- 
perity.. They were called Fire, Earth, Water, 
Wood and Metal, and are represented by five 
tablets. We saw the original rams — five blocks 
of stone, each bearing some resemblance to a 
ram's head. 

Behind this temple is a massive tower, six hun- 
dred years old, where hangs a huge bell covered 
with Chinese characters. The people think that 
if this bell is ever struck misfortune will come 
to Canton. Then we saw a small temple dedi- 
cated to virtuous women; then the Temple of 
Confucius, and finally a Mohammedan mosque. 



168 Amy and MariorCs Voyage 

At last, I am happy to say, we returned to the 
house where we had dined, feeling very grateful 
for having seen what must be remembered all 
our lives with interest. 

A cup of delicious tea (with as much milk 
and sugar as I wanted) revived me so far that I 
could join in pleasant games and conversation, 
and walk home with Faith and Mr. Worthington; 
but all night I was in a queer state, fancying 
myself exploring peculiarities of Chinese life 
against my will, surrounded by a gang of noisy 
heathen, and vainly wishing I could rest my tired 
feet and brain. 




Image of Confucius. — Page 168. 



CHAPTER VII. 



CANTON. 




WANT to give you a peep into the life 



WcS of Chinese aristocracy," said Faith to us 

the next morning as she came into the verandah, 

where stood Marion and myself, absorbed as 

usual in the moving panorama below, and laid 

her hands lovingly on our shoulders. " Does my 

brown apron astonish you ? I have been filling 

the lamps (my hands are clean now), for I can't 

trust the servants with the lamp oil, they will 

persist in using it to cook their own food with, — 

such is their inconvenient taste." 
(Hi) 



172 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

" Where are you going to take the young ladies, 
Faith?" asked Mrs. Worthington. 

" To call on the Minquas if they would like to 
go, mamma. You know one of the Minqua girls 
is a Christian, a member of our church, and she 
asked me two weeks ago to come and see her. 
To visit the family of a Canton merchant will be 
a chance that few foreign ladies have," added 
Faith, turning to us. 

We assured her of the pleasure we should feel 
in availing ourselves of that chance, and in the 
afternoon set out with Faith and Agnes for the 
abode of the Minquas, attended through the 
streets by a frightful old Chinaman, " the hus- 
band of our amah " (nurse), Aggie told us. A 
porter threw open the great iron gate, and we 
entered the inevitable sky-rOofed, stone-paved 
court, where we were met by two young ladies, 
who took our hands and murmured " How you 
do ? " in a shy, pretty way, then led us into their 
sitting-room, and gave us some very hard seats 
of black, polished wood. There were a good 



Canton. 173 

many women in the room ; some were Minqua's 
daughters, or daughters-in-law, and some attend- 
ants, and they were all thrown into a state of 
agreeable excitement by our visit ; but beyond 
" How you do ? " the knowledge of English did 
not extend in the family, and few of them had 
attained even to that. Faith and Agnes talked 
enough for us all, however, and the ladies treated 
us with the gentlest courtesy, offering tea, dried 
fruit, and cake whose flavor made me wonder if 
the higher classes, as well as Faith's domestics, 
used lamp oil in the culinary department. It 
was peanut oil, we were told afterwards, and that 
is used for lamps as well as for cooking. Wish- 
ing to make up for conversational deficiencies, 
they sent a servant for their robes of state and 
exhibited them to us, then intimated by gestures 
that they would like to have us try them on. 
Faith laughingly acquiesced, and so we did also, 
standing meekly while they arrayed us in garments 
that glittered with gold and silver embroidery. 
I got a glimpse of myself in a mirror, and started 



174 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

at my resemblance to the little women you see 
on Chinese fans. Great was the excitement 
produced as they caused us to promenade in the 
court, and all the ladies, as well as the female 
slaves and two brothers who had joined the party, 
laughed and clapped their hands like children. 
Poor Marion, overcome by the weight of her 
finery and the intense heat of the afternoon, 
leaned against a railing and seemed ready to sink, 
seeing which, the head of the house of Minqua, a 
pleasant looking young man, fanned her assidu- 
ously with a huge palm-leaf. We Avere soon 
divested of our uncomfortable splendor and given 
more tea. I was also offered a pipe to smoke, 
which I declined. I must not omit one part of 
our entertainment, the exhibition of our hostesses' 
small feet; about three inches they average 
(some measure four inches), and they contrive 
to totter about on them in quite a lively manner. 
The only Christian member of that household 
is one of the younger daughters, towards whom 
I felt very tenderly, thinking how she must need 



Canton. 175 

God's grace to help her take up her cross daily, 
and follow the Master amid such surroundings. 

Can we, in our favored land, estimate the trials 
of their faith, who in the midst of heathenism set 
out upon the heavenly race ? Oh, how I longed 
to speak a word of encouragement to her; to 
tell her that we were fellow pilgrims, and remind 
her of the " crown of life, which the Lord hath 
promised to them that love -Him," when in His 
strength they have endured this world's tempta- 
tions ! I might have asked Faith to be my in- 
terpreter, but she was talking with some one else, 
and I could not interrupt her. 

With many friendly handshakings we took 
our leave, feeling sure that our visit had been 
a great diversion to the monotonous lives of the 
Chinese ladies in their boudoirs, so stiff and 
unattractive with stone-paved floors, hard chairs, 
and high latticed windows that afford- no glimpse 
of the plebeian world. 

Mr. Duncan had returned to Hong Kong on 
learning Arthur's intention of joining us. We 



176 Amy and Marion's Voyage, 

found him in Mrs. Worthington's parlor when 
we arrived there, hot and tired after our interest- 
ing call. With great satisfaction I presented to 
Faith the brother whose name she had heard at 
least one hundred times since we came to Canton. 

At the tea-table, when we had stopped laugh- 
ing over Marion's description of the Minquas' 
unique style of entertaining their callers, Mr. 
Worthington said to his daughters, 4s You must 
take our friends over to Shameen before they 
leave us. Why not go this evening ? " 

Every one was quite willing to visit " Shameen," 
an island where reside the foreign merchants 
whom business brings to Canton. It is separated 
from the city by the narrow canal before alluded 
to, and its grass and trees are refreshing objects 
in view from the Worthingtons' windows ; still 
more so were they when, having crossed the 
canal by a bridge, we found ourselves away from 
the noisy, dirty city, and in cool seclusion. 
There is a little Episcopal church in Shameen, 
and the low-roofed bungalows, or loftier build- 



Canton. 17 7 

ings with arched verandas, are occupied chiefly 
by bachelors who live in luxury that many of 
their sex might envy — no wives to make them 
give an account of their doings, no one to pre- 
vent them from smoking their very wits away, 
if they are so inclined, during the hours when 
the suspension of business leaves them to quiet 
enjoyment in their cane lounging chairs, contem- 
plating through their verandas' arches the en- 
circling Canton river, while the slow plashing of 
oars is uninterrupted by any gabble from the 
much dreaded female tongue. 

" There is one merchant here who has a fam- 
ily," saith Faith, after alluding to the company 
of young bachelors, several of whom passed us 
as we strolled along the broad stone walk on the 
edge of the island. 

"Are those ladies playing croquet, his wife 
and daughters ? " 

u No, they belong to the English mission. 
Come and be introduced, they will not mind the 
interruption." 



178 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

We stood a few minutes on the croquet ground, 
and resumed our walk as the sun's last spark 
vanished. A. bank of dark purplish clouds, 
overhanging the river, glowed with a crimson 
illumination that was reflected upon the white 
houses, and made our own faces seem almost un- 
earthly to each other, as we sat down to feast 
our eyes on that sunset beauty. 

"The remembrance of such evenings as this 
would make one feel almost cool in the crowded 
thoroughfares of yonder city," said Arthur. 
" Miss Faith, why do not you missionaries live 
over here, and get all the benefit of these rural 
surroundings ? " 

" We should not be so accessible here to the 
Chinese," Faith replied. "No Chinaman can 
cross the bridge without a pass, and however 
great the benefit of a residence among these 
trees might be to us, our work would suffer, for 
the people could not feel free to come to us at 
all times with their wants and woes as they do 



Canton. 179 

" Who was the old woman I saw at your house 
to-day?" I inquired. "She had quite a differ- 
ent look from other Chinese women of her age, 
whose ugliness has appalled me. The wrinkled 
face of this one was kindly and loveable." 

" She is one of the Bible readers employed by 
our Mission," said Faith, "and her history is 
very interesting. From the country, three hun- 
dred miles away, that woman came to Canton 
with her son, who is a paralytic, to seek medical 
treatment at the hospital. Their native dialect 
is the Mandarin, altogether unlike the Cantonese, 
but the written language being the same all over 
the Empire, was employed by the missionaries as 
the means of communication. 

. " It was through very little of man's teaching 
that the knowledge of salvation soon came to 
both mother and son. They read the Bible, and 
in their ready acceptance of its truth, we had a 
striking example of the power of the Holy Spirit 
as a teacher. The sincerity of their faith was 
severely tested when a rich uncle, upon whom 



180 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

they were dependent for support, sent word that 
if they joined the Christians he would tlo nothing 
more for them. They did not waver at this. 
After uniting with the Church, they both wanted 
to begin at once to serve their Lord by bringing 
other souls to Him. 

" There is in the city a quarter where Mandarin- 
speaking people live, and the son begged the mis- 
sionaries to get him a wheeling chair, in which 
he might push himself about the streets to tell 
his countrymen the gospel story. Such a thing 
could not be found here, but they hired a little 
room for him in the Mandarin quarter, where he 
lies on his couch ready to talk with any seeker 
after truth. His dear old mother goes through 
the streets, Bible in hand, to instruct all the 
women who will listen to her. 

u Medical treatment has so far helped the 
young man that he can use his hands now, and 
father often employs him with writing. They 
have never been suffered to want food or shelter, 
and all the uncle's riches, I have heard them say, 



Canton. 181 

could never have brought them the true gladness 
of heart that the Lord Jesus gives to his follow- 
ers. Their neighbors call them the ' happy peo- 
ple.' " 

" That is interesting, indeed," said Arthur. 
" I am glad you told us their history, and some- 
time I may rehearse it at a missionary meeting ; 
for it should lead other Christians, whose privi- 
leges are far greater, to consider why they are 
not all known as ' the happy people.' In giving 
the paralytic and his mother this title, their 
heathen acquaintances unconsciously echo the 
Psalmist's words, 'Yea, happy is that people * 
whose God is the Lord.' " 

We stayed at Shameen until a late hour, drift- 
ing in the course of conversation from China to 
America, relapsing occasionally into long pauses, 
when the murmur of the water against the stone- 
work and the chirp of wakeful crickets, or a call 
from some passing boatman were the only sounds 
to break the quiet of the starlight, and the Great 
Dipper, rising slowly in the sky, warned us that 



182 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

Saturday night was drawing near the first hours 
of Sunday. My story of Canton would be incom- 
plete if I omitted to tell you anything of our 
Sunday there. Will your patience be equal to 
a description of one more day ? • 

Services were held in a large room on the 
lower floor of Mr. Worthington's house, and about 
seventy-five Chinese converts were present, be- 
sides several missionary families. One Chinaman 
united with that little company of believers, and 
while the Confession of Faith and the Covenant 
were read, he stood up to signify his acceptance 
of them. 

Marion whispered to me, " Notice the ex- 
pression of his face." 

It had already caught my attention, and I re- 
membered, as I knew she did, an assertion of 
Lieut. Neufville's that no Chinaman was ever 
truly converted. He was not a remarkably fine- 
looking man, but as he stood before the pulpit 
with head erect and a beaming face, I said to 
myself that, whatever all the world might try to 




One of Faith's Scholars. — Page 185. 



Canton. 185 

prove to the contrary, nothing would persuade 
any one who had seen that convert that he did 
not realize what he was doing, and did not feel 
that he had come "out of darkness into mar- 
vellous light. 

Faith Worthington has two girls' schools under 
her superintendence, and we visited them with 
her that Sunday afternoon. There seemed to be 
in each of them almost as many large girls and 
women as children. The mothers often come in, 
we were told, to hear their children recite. One 
at a time they advanced, these little yellow 
maidens, and making a reverence to their teacher, 
immediately turned their backs to her, and com- 
menced their recitation of lessons from the Bible, 
and from a simple catechism. What appeared to 
us the height of rudeness was in them only a 
common civility, for to face a teacher while 
reciting would be an absolute insult to her, 
according to the Chinese code of etiquette. 
Then followed the singing of tunes most familiar 
to us: — "There is a Happy Land," "Jesus, 



186 Amy and Marion's Voyage, 

lover of my soul," etc., .with words that had 
any thing but a euphonious sound, and in all 
sorts of keys, while Faith's strong, clear tones 
rose above the others, as she tried to lead them 
into some degree of harmony. The words of the 
first-mentioned tune were somewhat as follows : 

" Cum yau yat sliaw fuk da, 
Tsoi u un fong. 
Sheun do u wing chung ka, 
U yat che kwong. 

After the singing came a little preaching from 
Faith, who sat still in her chair, bending forward 
slightly in her earnestness, her deep eyes fixed 
lovingly upon the faces of her hearers, while she 
discoursed in Chinese with a fluency that I never 
knew her to equal in English. Some of the 
children looked very apathetic, some wore an 
expression of suffering (and those had their feet 
bound in the painful manner necessary to the 
formation of a genteel shape), and a few 
bright little girls listened as if they dreaded to 
lose a word. I noticed among the women also 
those who were very attentive, if their express- 



Canton. 187 

ions could prove it, and an emphatic nod of the 
head frequently bore witness of their inward 
convictions that the teacher was telling them " all 
truth and no lies," as one of them said to her. 

In the evening there were services in the 
house where we had dined, at the other side of 
the city, and being rather tired, we went there 
in a sampan. Afterwards we walked home in a 
procession. Arthur and Mr. Worthington escort- 
ed some of the elder ladies. Faith, Marion, and 
I, preceding them, had opportunity for a long 
talk, our last in Canton, and Agnes, bearing a 
lantern, led the way through the dark streets, 
which at that late hour were almost deserted. 
With her sweet, innocent face framed by shining 
curls, her dress made dazzlingly white by the 
rays of light which enveloped her, she looked 
like some pure little spirit sent to guide mortals 
through the gloomy and devious ways of earth. 

Marion opened her heart to Faith on the 
subject of missons, telling her that every thing 
seen and heard in Canton had increased her 



188 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

reverence for the work and the workers ; then 
she brought up the subject of her conversation 
with Lieut. Neufville, confessing that she wanted 
some of his cavillings answered by Faith's wis- 
dom, — not so much to satisfy her own mind, as 
to give her a more clearly defined idea of what 
might be said in future to such people. 

" My dear, it would need more wisdom than I 
possess, to reply to the criticisms and objections 
of those who have no interest in missionary 
labors," said Faith. "But what did .this Lieu- 
tenant say ? " 

" Well, first of all he said missionaries were 
always quarelling among themselves 'like cats 
and dogs,' " said Marion, suddenly growing 
dumb with consternation at the idea that she 
might have wounded Faith by the suggestion. 

"That certainly is not true in Canton," quietly 
replied the young advocate of missions, " and is 
far from being the rule elsewhere. However, I 
am grieved to say that I have sometimes heard of 
disagreements among them, and what does it 



Canton. 189 

prove? That we are all erring human beings, 
yet perhaps no worse than our Lord's disciples, 
who, even in His sacred presence, disputed who 
should be the greatest. We dishonor His cause 
and our high calling when we follow their exam- 
ple, but He did not dismiss them from His 
service as being unfit for it, but endued them 
with His Spirit, who helped their infirmities, and 
allowed them to become the teachers of the 
world; and must our work be held as of no 
account because the workers are imperfect? 
What next, Marion?" 

"Objections second and third were that the 
heathen are well enough as they are, believing in 
their own gods, and they will not be punished 
for not believing what they never heard of." 

" The latter thought involves a deep mystery," 
said Faith; "yet Paul seems to recognize the 
lost condition of the heathen when he says,. 
' Whosoever shall call upon the name of the Lord 
shall be saved. How then shall they call on 
Him in whom they have not believed ? and how 






190 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

shall they believe in Him of whom they have not 
heard? and how shall they hear without a 
preacher? and how shall they preach except 
they be sent?' 

"Just here is the argument for the neces- 
sity for foreign missions. Did Christians uni- 
versally recognize this, millions of money would 
be poured into the treasury, and thousands of 
laborers would offer themselves for the work. 

44 We are, however, told that the servant who 
knew not his Lord's will, and did it not, shall be 
judged differently from those who were enlight- 
ened. 

"But how can we fathom the profound question 
of the heathen's responsibility ? It is enough, I 
believe, to be sure they are in the hands of a God 
who cannot deal unjustly, and He has given a 
great many of those whom I know, a clearer idea 
of right and wrong than is generally considered 
belonging to the heathen. 

" As to their faith in their own gods, we know 
that in a great number it is a very weak faith, 



Canton. 191 

and has no power to make them happy, or to 
elevate them in any way. Lately a poor woman 
said to me, ' I was sure the heart inside of me 
was very dark and evil , my sins were like a bur- 
den. When I prayed to my gods I did not feel 
they could hear or help. Long years ago, some 
white lady told me of one she called Jesus, who 
came to bear away these heavy sin burdens, and 
I never quite forgot the story, though it was very 
dim in my thoughts. Then you came and told 
me the rest, all of it, and I pray to Him, and that 
big burden is taken away from me, so I will pray 
always to Him to help me go in the right way.' ' : 

We walked on silently for a time, until Faith 
inquired if Marion remembered any more of the 
officer's objections. 

" One was that a Chinaman never was known 
to be truly converted ; but, dear Faith, I know 
better than to agree with that declaration. What 
I have seen and learned in Canton contradicts it 
sufficiently without any pains on your part, al- 
though you told me once that the missionaries 



192 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

are sometimes deceived in those who were con- 
sidered converts." 

"John speaks of such in his First Epistle," I 
added. " ' They went out from us, but they 
were not of us.' In other lands than China we 
find those who are professors of the faith, with- 
out being partakers of it." 

"Finally," Faith said, "I might close the 
question by quoting the words of the Duke of 
"Wellington, which contain, I think, the substance 
of the whole matter, and the decisive argument 
for foreign missions. 

" It is said that he once met a young clergy- 
man who, being aware of the Duke's former 
residence in the East, and his familiarity with 
the ignorance and superstition of the natives, 
proposed the following question : ' Does not your 
Grace think it almost useless and extravagant 
to preach the gospel to the Hindoos?' The 
Duke immediately replied, 'Look, sir, to your 
marching orders: Preach the gospel to every 
creature" 



Canton. , 193 

" Oli, dear girls ! " Faith went on to say, "the 
only thing to be considered is our Master's com- 
mand, and in obeying it we do not depend on 
seeing great results, — they are in His hands ; but 
even to help one soul find peace in believing we 
consider worth living here for. My little blind 
girl said to me one day, ' Dear teacher, my life 
is a new one since I believed what you told me 
about our Heavenly Father and the Lord Jesus ; ' 
and the death-bed of another scholar showed all 
her heathen relatives that she had a hope that 
could do for her what none of theirs could; it 
made her say, as she clasped my hand, 4 1 feel He 
is with me. It is all bright." 

Our walk had ended, and we stood by the 
canal for a moment as Faith ceased to speak, her 
face radiant as she turned it towards us. We 
took her hands in ours, saying, by one impulse : 
"Truly you do have, even in this life, the 
'hundredfold!'" 

Now I really have no more to say about 
Canton, except that we left it the next day, with 



194 Amy and MariorCs Voyage. 

a promise from Faith that she would take a little 
rest and recreation by coming to Hong Kong for 
a visit on the " Lyra " before a fortnight should 
pass by. 

We have resumed our gay harbor life, and 
each day brings new diversions. We receive a 
great many calls, and are invited to dinner or 
tiffin on steamers, go to see captains' wives who 
are our neighbors in the harbor, ride about the 
city in sedan chairs to do our shopping, and take 
rowing lessons in the evening under the auspices 
of Mr. Fordyce, or the first mate, or Arthur, when 
he is not playing the agreeable host to some skip- 
per. Brass buttons honor us frequently; the 
" Ariadne " officers really seem to have missed us 
while we were away, and are now making up for 
lost time. But with all our gaieties, I do not 
think we are quite the same girls who trod the 
" Lyra's " deck two weeks ago. Our glimpse 
into the heart of heathendom, and into lives of 
such high and steadfast aim as those we have 
seen, could hardly fail to have a deepening 



Canton. 



195 



influence, e^en upon the most frivolous char- 
acter. 

Write us all about everything and everybody 
at home ; that will make a letter equal in length 

to this. 

Yours with true friendship, 

Amy. 




CHAPTER VIII. 



BETTTBN TO HONG KONG. 



MARION'S STORY. 




Hong Kong Harbor, June 31, 18 — . 



USSIE, My Dear Friend, — I am a 



sadder and a wiser girl than when my 
last letter to you was written. This harbor life 
of ours, though decidedly picturesque, has its 
dark side. Wherein the darkness lies I will ex- 
plain by informing you of some grave facts. 

People out here are not what they seem ; ap- 
pearances are deceitful (especially the appearance 
of navy officers) ; and I might add that there is 

neither truth nor virtue in mankind, were it not 

(196) 



Return to Hong Kong. 197 

for a few who would be living contradictions to 
such a sweeping assertion. 

Another fact is that we are tired of Hong 
Kong, for the heat is intense, and that, or some- 
thing, disagrees with us all, and there is no 
longer novelty in any object around us; even 
the passing of a junk seems hardly more remark- 
able than that of a horse-car at home. We pine 
to set sail for Manila, and must continue to pine 
until the price of hemp falls, and the " Lyra's " 
owner deems it for his interest to purchase a 
cargo of it at the Philippines. Meantime we re- 
main here and have dyspepsia, even indicati- 
of cholera, or else go home by one of the Pi. 
Mail steamers, and ingloriously give up our 
voyage around the world. A hopeful prospect, 
isn't it ? We will turn from it while I look 
back over the past six weeks, and give you their 
history. 

At this point you are wondering if Faith 
Worthington made us a visit, and I am happy to 
tell you that the dear girl came down in the 



198 Amy and Mariorfs Voyage. 

Canton boat early in June to stay awhile. She 
was charmed with everything on board our ship ; 
even with the state-room of six feet by four al- 
lotted to her. 

"It is all so queer!" she said, surveying the 
pink-curtained berth, and the little square win- 
dow, through which numerous mast-heads "were 
visible against the evening sky. " Here you seem 
as much at home as if you had never lived in a 
house, while I feel like somebody in a dream — 
not my own self at all." 

" That's right," said Amy ; " lose your identity 
for a while, and you will go home to your work 
all the fresher." 

She didn't look like one who needed freshen- 
ing as she stood before my small cracked looking- 
glass, brushing out a mass of shining hair and 
talking merrily to us ; } T et sometimes I could see 
a weary look in the blue eyes, and I felt sure a 
week of fun was just what she ought to have. 

" Come up on deck now, and enjoy the sunset 
and breeze. After tea we will admit you into 



Return to Hong Kong. 199 

our boat club, if you are not tired, or else you 
can go as passenger." 

Faith much preferred to take an oar. When 
the moon had risen, we seated ourselves in the 
" Skimmer " with Mr. Fordyce, and rowed to 
Wanchi, the lower end of the harbor, resting 
often to have a song and look about us. The 
mountains were reflected in the glassy water, and 
the -city lights at the base of Victoria Peak multi- 
plied themselves in the clear, mirror-like surface. 
We passed under the bow of many a stately 
vessel, glancing up at the sailors, who leaned 
over to watch our boat with its crew of three 
hatless girls, dressed in airy muslins, and a steers- 
man who lounged tranquilly in the stern. 

" What is it, Faith ? " we asked, as a subdued 
ripple of laughter broke from her. 

" A remark in Chinese, not intended for our 
ears, from a Chinaman on the ship we just passed. 
He told his companion to notice ' those three 
foreign devil-women down there rowing that 
boat!'" 



200 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

" The miserable pagan ! " said Mr. Fordyce. 
" Any other kind of man would have observed in 
awe, ' See those sylph-like forms, resembling in 
their white draperies the fleecy clouds that sail 
above us ; ' but gallantry cannot be expected 
from a Chinaman. Now, my fair oarswomen, let 
us go over to that flag-ship the ' Delaware,' and 
listen to her band for a few happy moments. I 
know you don't mean to put an end to ■ my 
present rapture by rowing back to the ' Lyra ' 
now." 

The " few happy moments " lengthened into 
a good half-hour while we floated around the 
" Delaware," listening to the dreamy strains of 
music, and it was with a start that we finally re- 
sumed our oars when two bells (nine o'clock) 
sounded from a neighboring vessel. With steady 
strokes we pulled over the half-mile to the "Lyra" 
— no more resting and romancing that evening — 
and our haste was not in vain, for Captain Ar- 
thur stood at the gangway, saying in a tone of 
relief, " Here you are at last, and six callers 



Return to Hong Kong. 201 

have been waiting on board for nearly an hour ! " 
They were all navy officers, the "Ariadne" 
trio and some of their friends from an English 
man-of-war, the " Brunswick." I did hope, after 
all Faith had heard of Lieut. Neufville, that she 
would have a chance of talking with him, and so 
it undoubtedly would have been, had not one of 
the Englishmen, Lieut. Surrey, engrossed her 
completely all the evening. Before they took 
their leave an excursion to the top of the Peak 
was planned for the next day. 

That night was the first of a series in which 
we have " camped out " on deck, for the heat 
is intolerable in our state-rooms, and three " cots" 
(like hammocks, only shaped so that berth mat- 
tresses fit into them) that were sent us from the 
"Ariadne " are hung under the awning, and in 
these swinging beds we repose during the first 
half of the night, usually going below before a 
glimmer of dawn appears. 

On the night in question, I did not sleep 
much, for radiant moonlight flooding the harbor 



202 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

and mountains made the scene so lovely that I 
did not wish to close my eyes npon it, — neither 
did I wish to be oblivions of the presence of 
Faith in the next cot ; therefore I lay with my 
head hanging over the side of my cot, looking at 
and talking too her till long after midnight. 

The next day, June 10th, will long be a mem- 
orable one in my calendar. It was hot enough, 
I thought at the time, to be remembered only for 
that reason ; but there have been many days 
since then quite equal to it in that respect. At 
the Pray a landing we met our naval escort, 
Lieut. Gaines, Mr. Caulkin, and Lieut. Surrey 
of the " Brunswick." 

Captain Arthur aud Mr. Fordyce were of the 
party, and as every one of us had to engage four 
coolies with a chair for the steep ascent, a goodly 
number of people that afternoon wound slowly 
up the narrow mountain path. Little streams 
came rushing down to meet us, and goats were 
feeding on their grassy borders. With every 
turn of the path the view became wider, and it 



Return to Hong Kong, 203 

made -Amy almost dizzy to look below upon the 
city roofs, as she reflected that a stumble of her 
bearers might easily send her rolling down to 
them. Such catastrophes do not easily occur to 
me when I am having a good time, and when we 
came to a notch in the mountain chain where a 
glimpse of sea view began to be visible, and I was 
told that the tall post by the way had been 
erected in memory of an English traveller, killed 
on the spot by Chinamen, it didn't trouble me, 
though a thought glanced through my mind that 
we white people were only seven, three of us 
girls, and if our twenty-eight Chinese bearers felt 
like having a massacre then and there, how could 
we help it? I dismissed the unprofitable con- 
jecture at once. 

Arriving at last at the summit of Victoria 
Peak, we had a grand view ; — on one side the 
familiar harbor with its fleet, and the many-tinted 
hill on the mainland ; — on the other the blue 
ocean, glittering in the June sunbeans, number- 
less islands, and the Yat-moon pass, through 



204 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

which the "Lyra" had been guided so -safely; 
and a bracing salt wind refreshed ns, as it used 
to in the days before we came to China and felt 
its burning heat. With the wind, and a rush of 
feeling occasioned by the panorama, I was speech- 
less and sat down in the long grass at the very 
edge of the precipice, with a heart almost op- 
pressed by a revelation of beauty such as my eyes 
had never seen before. Faith and I, though very 
unlike in character, seem to think and feel at 
times as if one spirit moved us, and she sat down 
suddenly, just as I did, overcome by the same 
emotion. 

Mr. Caulkin regarded us with astonishment, 
which was shared by Lieutenant Surrey. "I 
thought you would be perfectly delighted at this 
view," he cried, "and there you sit without a 
word to say — so coolly that we might imagine 
you had lived up here a month." 

" Do you want us to give one shriek and roll 
over this green precipice ? " I inquired. " Be- 
cause my present feelings can be manifested in 



Return to Hong Kong. 205 

no other way, and if we keep from such an 
expression of them there is no use in attempting 
words." He did not understand us at all, it was 
evident, and went to borrow a spy-glass from the 
man who has a little house on Victoria Peak, and 
raises the signal flag when steamers enter the 
harbor, perhaps deluding himself with the belief 
that we needed some aid of that sort to our 
enthusiasm. I had no ambition to . discover the 
occupations of people on the vessels far below us, 
as some of the others amused themselves by 
doing. All such things seemed trifling when that 
grand and varied picture attracted the eyes. 

Captain Elton, one of our neighbors in the 
harbor, used his spy-glass to advantage that 
afternoon, for he told Mr. Duncan he had seen 
two of the young ladies sitting on the grass at 
the edge of the Peak, with a curious-looking 
shawl wrapped around them both. It was the 
German flag that Arthur folded us in when the 
sea-breeze grew too cool, and Amy, enveloped 
in a small edition of the stars and stripes, sat 



206 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

there also, while they compared her to the God- 
dess of Liberty. Mr. Surrey's position was on a 
rock by the side of Miss Worthington, and it 
would appear, even to the careless observer, that 
the impression made by her on his mind and 
heart was very different from any that one of her 
sex had produced before. He had walked more 
than halfway up the mountain by the side of her 
chair, leaving his own empty, and I could not 
help hearing snatches of their conversation, which 
turned on missions ; but it was not a sober talk 
at all, for he asked the most ridiculous questions, 
and expressed so openly his wonder that she 
could really want to live among the heathen and 
teach them, when she might have stayed in 
America and led the gay life of a. young lady in 
New York or Philadelphia society, that Faith's 
sense of amusement at him interfered with seri- 
ous replies, such as she would naturally have 
given under other circumstances. 

As we were resting on the Peak he renewed 
the attack in the same bantering strain, and in 



Return to Song Kong. 207 

reply to her smiling assurance that she really 
loved her work, and would not give it up for any 
gaities to be enjoyed in America, he drew a long 
breath in despair of understanding a girl who 
entertained such sentiments, and reiterated, 
" Well ! I don't see, for the life of me, how you 
can find any pleasure in teaching these dirty little 
heathen. It is beyond me ! " Faith looked at 
him gravely, as if she quite believed it was 
beyond him, and felt sorry that it was so. To 
enter then before six people into the motives that 
impel and direct her happy life of service did 
not seem easy to her, I knew; yet when she 
thinks her "banner" should be "displayed be- 
cause of the truth, " it goes mightily against the 
grain for her to be silent. Arthur saw and 
understood her troubled expression, and answered 
in her behalf, " Miss "Worthington is true to her 
name, for you know, my dear Surrey, that Faith 
looks beyond things temporal to those that are 
unseen and eternal." 

The Lieutenant was silent, and Mr. Fordyce 



208 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

looked up quickly with something in' his hand- 
some face that I never saw there before. A ray 
of light had come to him, perhaps, upon a 
subject hitherto hidden in darkness. 

As I do not mean to keep your imagination 
fixed too long on the summit of Victoria Peak, 
it is time for me to invite it to descend, as we 
did, toward the sea, into a sort of basin of the 
mountains, around which their furrowed green 
sides rose high above us. The coolies stopped to 
drink at an impetuous little stream that gurgled 
out of a rocky gorge, and we alighted to try our 
pedestrian powers. Passing Douglas Castle, a 
mysterious building that would call to your 
mind some of Walter Scott's descriptions if it were 
grey and old-looking as it ought to be, we came 
at last into a smooth, level road, walled on the 
right by masses of rock, half-hidden by a wild 
growth of vines. On the left stretched the 
ocean, dyed crimson by the setting sun, and 
when that bright hue had faded, the moonlight 
flashed from the waves, and made startling 



Return to Song Kong. 209 

shadows of our advancing sedan-chairs and their 
bearers. 

By that time we had resumed our seats, and 
the Chinamen who bore the feminine portion of 
the company, not rinding themselves heavily bur- 
dened, were proceeding at a pace that left the 
more substantial riders far in the rear — a state 
of things that alarmed us, for that part of the 
city called China-town was before us, and no un- 
protected girl would be willing to pass through 
it after dark. The pidgin-English command 
" man-man " (stop or walk slowly) was given 
with ineffectual earnestness, and we implored 
Faith to try the power of their own tongue upon 
the coolies. In vain were her Chinese remon- 
strances ; they replied, not at all respectfully, 
that they were hungry, — wanted their suppers, 
— would go as fast as they pleased ; and on they 
trotted, while behind us the gentlemen, in con- 
sternation that equalled our own, urged on their 
tired Chinamen to overtake us. They did so 
with difficulty just before we entered the city, 



210 Amy and Marion's Voyage, 

and Lieut. Surrey handed Faith his umbrella that 
she might " hang on to one end," as he said, 
while his hand, retaining the other, prevented 
another separation. Amy and I were closely 
attended by the other escorts to the Praya land- 
ing, where our patient boat-boys had been wait- 
ing for an hour, and we promised the officers that 
we would give them a New England supper of 
baked beans, and afterwards row them to the 
" Ariadne ; " — a rash promise, accepted by them, 
but the last clause unfulfilled by us, who realized 
when at last resting in the " Lyra's " cabin how 
weary we were. 

A caller from the city was there to see Faith 
— a youth whose acquaintance she had made 
during a voyage from San Francisco to China 
eight months before. (I think Amy or I must 
have mentioned to you that she went to America 
at the age of thirteen, to spend four years at 
school, and returned only last summer.) This 
individual is hardly old enough for a young man, 
or young enough for a boy ; he is more intelli- 



Return to Hong Kong. 211 

gent and gentlemanly than two-thirds of the 
people one meets in travelling round the world, 
and his surname is Payne. We know him well 
enough to call him Dick by this time, and have 
charitably adopted him for a younger brother, 
our hearts being touched by his evident home- 
sickness in the uncongenial atmosphere of Hong 
Kong society. 

Oh, this is the stiffest of places ! The English 
are on the top rounds of the ladder ; the rich 
Americans, a little below them, put on even 
more airs than they do ; while those who do busi- 
ness on a small scale are very far down, and have 
to keep to themselves. Dick is only a clerk, and 
a very young one, so he is much to be pitied in a 
city where people are not judged by their own 
worth. 

After one week, into which was crowded more 
festivity that I can tell you of now, we watched 
the Canton steamer out of the harbor, while our 
friend's face and figure in the stern faded from 
our sight, as she went back to resume her work. 



212 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

We felt it was probably a final parting as to this 
present world, but remembering the words of a 
German princess, " Christians never part for the 
last time," we wiped away a little mist from the 
eyes that followed the steamer, and said to each 
other that it was a good thing to have known her, 
and we would always be grateful for that 
privilege. I wish the same could be said of even 
half a dozen among our numerous acquaintances 
in the city and harbor, and then my youthful 
mind might not learn such bitter lessons as are 
constantly forced upon it. Don't laugh, Gussie ? 
I tell you it is no laughing matter to be disap- 
pointed in nearly everybody you like, and to find 
that however prepossessing may be their appear- 
ance and manners in your society, away from it 
their actions are not such as a right-minded 
woman could approve. I believe some girls say 
they do not object to young men being " a little 
fast ! " Do you suppose they have any idea of 
what they are talking about ? If people could be 
"fast" in the right direction no one could 



Return to Hong Kong. 213 

reasonably object, but my experience of fastness 
assures me that it is more apt to be connected 
with a turn to the left. 

In these days we see no more flashes of brass 
buttons upon our gang-way steps, except when 
Lieut. Surrey haunts us of an evening to inquire 
"the latest news from Canton." A misunder- 
standing with one of the " Ariadne " officers 
created a coolness which affected his friends also, 
and they dropped us without giving us a fair 
chance to explain the cause of an act of seeming 
rudeness, quite unintentional on the part of Amy 
and myself. We were not deeply grieved on 
account of this desertion, though sorry to be 
considered unladylike by any one. 

Dick Payne spends nearly every evening on 
the " Lyra," thankful to escape from the torrid 
climate of the city when his office work is done, 
and often Mr. Duncan and he row us to Kow- 
loon, as the land opposite Hong Kong is called 
— a lonely place, where we ramble over the 
slopes, or rest on some glassy bluff that rises 



214 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

steeply above the beach where the water ripples 
break, while crickets chirp around us, and across 
the harbor gleam the lights of the city which 
Dick emphatically wishes might be swallowed by 
an earthquake before his eyes, rather than he 
should be forced to return to it. His kind heart 
would repent of the wish if he saw any chance of 
it coming to pass ; but he is the most homesick 
hoy I ever tried to console. 

Last night, for variety, we rowed over to 
Stone-cutters' Island just before sunset, taking 
our supper with us, and Arthur was easily per- 
suaded to be one of the party. Rocks, grass, a 
deserted garden where weeds and tropical fruit- 
trees grow in rank abundance, and a stone jail 
form the unattractive features of this island, and 
a more forlorn place than it must be in the noon- 
day glare I cannot imagine ; yet a sunset of real 
watermelon hue softened its naturally forbidding 
aspect and gave to the jail the look of a pic- 
turesque old castle. We went into it, of course, 
all being curious creatures, and were surprised 



Return to Hong Kong. 215 

to find some of the English missionaries, who 
said they had come there to take up their abode 
for a few days. Although they did not occupy 
cells, but cool, large rooms, it seemed a prepos- 
terous idea that any one could find an agreeable 
change and recreation in a jail; but Hong- 
Kongites will do a good deal for a breath of 
fresher air than can be had under those oppress- 
ive mountains that stand so near the city. 

Our repast was spread out on a flat rock by 
the beach, and the delicate question of the best 
way to open a box of sardines gravely discussed. 
We knew they would not be good for us, but 
none the less was our determination to enjoy 
them. Arthur settled it b}^ putting the box up 
on a rock endwise, and firing his pistol at it ; — 
result, a round hole in the box, and the contents 
poked out with a penknife in the form of sardine 
hash ! 

" After all," it is said during these pleasant 
evenings, "we are not so very miserable, even 
if we can't set sail for Manila." When the next 



216 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

morning comes, though, with its relentless stare 
of sunshine, and Victoria Peak seems to perspire 
in the region of its rocky brow, and we lie list- 
lessly in cane lounging-chairs, trying to quench 
our thirst with that insult to the palate called 
" congee " (thin rice-water), dosing ourselves at 
intervals with " Brown's Cholera Mixture " — 
then is the time to say — "Must this state of 
things last through August if our owners won't 
send us to Manila ? Or shall we go home by 
the Pacific mail ? " 

There are two visitors besides Dick who re- 
main faithful to us. One is an elderly doctor, 
whose liking for Amy brings him on board so 
often that warlike feelings are excited in her 
mind when Mr. Fordyce calls up from the lower 
deck, about once a day, " Miss Amy, I see the 
doctor's boat coming." The other is still more 
elderly, a white-haired, delightful gentleman, 
named Dowling, who is connected with one of 
the largest mercantile houses here, and used to 
know Uncle Roslyn when he lived in America. 



Return to Hong Kong. 217 

A few evenings ago he brought a young friend 
to take tea with us, Captain Harold Fay of the 
steamer "Suwanee," and we were greatly pleased 
to find him a native of Boston, and so earnest 
in his affectionate regard for his home, as he still 
considered it, that to talk about its streets and 
people seemed a real satisfaction to him. His 
steamer leaves this harbor for Singapore on the 
3rd of every month, touching at Saigon, a French 
port in Cochin-China, on the way. After en- 
larging upon the tropical beauties of Singapore, 
he turned to me, saying, " You and Miss Roslyn 
ought to take a trip there with me before you 
leave China ; " to which I replied in the most 
commonplace words, " It would be very pleasant 
if we could." 

"Oh! wouldn't it?" said Amy, after the 
gentlemen had gone ashore, echoing my words, as 
I repeated them more emphatically than when 
answering Captain Fay. " It would cost ever so 
much," was one obstacle, and another, suggested 
by Arthur, " Of course, I couldn't let you girls go 



218 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

alone, neither ought I to leave the ship for a 
month to go with you." 

" Well, don't let us think about it, for it is too 
tantalizing," and we dropped the subject. 

I have a feeling that something is going to 
happen to us next month — not a voyage to 
Singapore, for the "Suwanee" sails in two days, 
and there is no prospect of the obstacle I 
mentioned being removed — but something: an 
order to proceed to Manila, or a departure for 
America in the next steamer. I hope it will not 
be the latter, whatever it is, for it would be far 
better to stay here all summer and be scorched, 
than to give up our journey round the world. 
Don't you think so ? 



CHAPTER IX. 



SAIGON AND SINGAPOKE. 
AMY'S STORY. 




Steamer " Suwanee" China Sea, 
Aug. 30th. 



'0 you wonder, Gussie, that you do not 

see the familiar name of Hong Kong 

Harbor at the head of this letter? Are you 

saying to yourself, "What has befallen those 

girls now ? " Something remarkable, be assured, 

for we have visited Singapore, and are now 

steaming back to our harbor-home after nearly a 

month's absence. 

Marion's last effusion was a kind of wail, was 

it not ? and if I had written in July according to 
219 



220 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

my feelings, you would have received one of yet 
more doleful cadence ; but no gilded vane on 
church steeple ever veered more suddenly than 
did those same feelings on the 2nd day of August 
when, hot and miserable, I was fanning myself 
on the sofa in the captain's office, and was 
electrified by these words as Arthur entered : 

" Amy ! Marion ! Hurry and pack your trunk, 
for the ' Suwanee ' sails at three this afternoon, 
and you are going to Singapore in her by 
invitation of Mr. Dowling." 

Cinderella was not more pleased when her 
fairy godmother turned a pumpkin into a coach 
to take her to the ball, than we were with -this 
welcome invitation. It seems that the dear old 
gentleman, meeting Arthur in Queen's Road, 
said, " I was just on my way to the ' Lyra,' for 
the notion of going to Singapore with Fay has 
seized me, but I don't care about it unless you 
will let those girls of yours go with me. I'll take 
wonderful care of them." Captain Roslyn could 
have no doubt of that, so he did not demur at the 



Saigon and Singapore. 221 

prospect of a month's loneliness for himself, but 
came to give the announcement that startled us 
both into an excited packing of one small trunk, 
and before the sun went down the Peak was far 
out of sight, and we were on the wide ocean once 
more ; standing in the " Suwanee's " bow with a 
cool salt wind blowing even the remembrance of 
heat away from us, and every prospect of a good 
time ahead. In a steamer that one might sup- 
pose to have been built expressly to afford 
pleasure trips to a few passengers, conveniently 
arranged and handsomely fitted up ; her captain 
an unusually agreeable person when "so dis- 
posed ; " with a kind, fatherly friend, who made 
us feel that we were conferring instead of 
receiving a favor by the acceptance of his 
invitation ; sailing down the China Sea, serenely 
blue all day, and silvered after twilight, toward 
the land of palms, and revelling in anticipation 
'of tropical beauty to be enjoyed there, — could 
we have dreamed of any better way than this of 
passing the month of August ? 



222 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

There were only three or four passengers 
beside our party, and we did not see much of any 
of them except a Mr. Leroy, who by reason of his 
excessively lively character, and information 
gathered from almost every clime, is well fitted 
for a steamer companion. His powers of enter- 
tainment, added to those with which Captain Fay 
is endowed; a large collection of stereoscopic 
views belonging to the latter; his photograph 
albums, from whose pages many a Boston face 
looked up at us with a pleasant surprise, and 
Cameron's book on Singapore were the charms 
that made three days slip away too quickly. 

On the third day land was visible, — a long 
range of hills in the distance, which the captain 
said was the coast of Cochin China. We entered 
the Saigon River the next forenoon, passing Cape 
St. James, a thickly wooded promontory at its 
mouth, and for several hours were tracing its 
serpentine curves among shores covered with a 
low jungle growth. At five P.M. the " Suwanee " 
ran aground, and there was nothing to do but to 



Saigon and Singapore, 223 

wait patiently for two hours until the tide turned, 
and then we steamed up to the city. Not much 
of Saigon was to be seen in the hazy moonlight, 
and we retired to suffer the disturbance of swarms 
of mosquitoes in our state-room and of heathen 
outside the window, so there was little rest for us 
that night. Daylight revealed a view of vessels 
at anchor all around us ; junks and sampans of 
patterns diverse from those with which we had 
become familiar in Hong Kong, huts of Chinese 
or Malays along the river banks, and some re- 
spectable buildings, the most inposing of them 
being the Messageries Imperiales, — the head- 
quarters of French authority. Marion's attempt 
at sketching a thatched shanty under some palm 
trees was interrupted by a call from Captain Fay 
to join me in making the acquaintance of the 
mangosteen, "the queen of East India fruits," he 
called it, "and one that you will never know 
when to stop eating after you once taste it." 
She came reluctantly, asking if mangosteens were 
at all like . magnos, for she has never conquered 



224 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

her aversion for that fruit, and persists in saying 
it has a turpentine flavor. 

"No more like them than peaches are like 
watermelons," Mr. Leroy assured her, showing 
us a box of them, and producing plates and 
knives. 

The first time one tastes a mangosteen is an 
epoch in the history of a life. It is about the 
size and shape of an apple, and has a hard dark 
shell which is crimson on the inside, and contains 
a pure white fruit, divided into lobes, and very 
juicy. The flavor is unlike any other in the 
world, I believe, therefore I cannot describe it; 
but Marion's face, as she swallowed one lobe and 
rolled up her eyes, then closed them with a sigh 
that told of rapture too deep for utterance, would 
have convinced any one of the mangosteen's 
virtue. 

" You won't look so serene when I give you a 
dourian to eat," said Capt. Fay, who had ob- 
served her quizzically. 

" When you drive around Singapore and judge 



Saigon and Singapore. 225 

by a certain odor greeting your olfactories that 
deceased cats and dogs are somewhere in the 
neighborhood, or that a breeze is wafted to you 
from the jungle where decaying elephants and 
tigers" — 

"Stop these odorous comparisons, I beg," 
exclaimed Mr. Leroy. 

" You needn't listen," responded the captain ; 
" I will proceed to inform Miss Gilmer that under 
such circumstances she may know herself to be 
near a pile of dourians exposed for sale outside 
of some shop." 

" Can people eat such things ? What do they 
look like?" 

" They are larger than a cocoanut, and have a 
green husk or shell; the interior is like a rich 
custard, and much- appreciated by people who 
can overcome their disgust at the smell. The 
natives are very fond of them." 

Mr. Leroy declared that he should send for a 
dourian before he had been in Singapore half an 



226 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

hour, and no perfume should deter him from 
eating one. 

"We shall see," was the captain's skeptical reply. 

Late in the afternoon we went ashore to see 
the "wonders of Saigon, and in a queer little car- 
riage rattled off to the Public Gardens — a place 
upon which the French people do not expend 
much labor in cultivation, and I liked it none the 
less for that. The straggling paths, winding 
among thickets of bamboo and palm, were rural 
enough, and pleased me better than if they had 
borne the marks of weeding and rolling. There 
were animals in cages there ; some large tigers, 
one of whom when he saw us flew at his iron 
bars with such a roar of fury that Mr. Dowling 
drew me back involuntarily, as if he thought it 
could scarcely require more force to give the 
creature his freedom. Then we got into our 
carriage again and were driven over very good 
roads, edged with the greenest grass ; past pretty, 
airy French houses, and the miserable hovels of 
the Chinese. Altogether, Saigon is a queer 



Saigon and Singapore, 227 

place ; the French and Chinese elements do not 
seem to mingle well, and respectable buildings 
have a homesick look, — " as if they wished they 
were anywhere else on earth," Marion observed. 
There is a large Catholic nunnery there, but I 
did not see anything very attractive after we left 
the seclusion of 'the gardens, and we had no 
desire to go ashore again during the " Suwanee's " 
stay in the river. On the third day she steamed 
out to sea again, and our pleasant intercourse 
went on as before. 

The captain grew more sociable every day, and 
seemed to find great delight in teasing Marion, 
and drawing her into discussions upon a variety 
of subjects. Another favorite pastime of this 
young man, whose dignified manners had once 
caused us to regard him with a degree of awe, 
was to address remarks and commands in pidgin- 
English to his steward, a very solemn Chinaman, 
at the dinner-table, for the apparent purpose of 
setting Marion into fits of laughter. Captain 
Fay's fluency in this tongue is so astonishing that 



228 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

the gravest person could not fail to be amused at 
listening to him, and Marion's strong sense of the 
ridiculous quite overcomes her. Sometimes we 
sit at the table from seven till nearly ten, so 
interested in conversation — not always nonsen- 
sical by any means — that we forget the attrac- 
tions of the deck. One night Marion's declara- 
tion of the unbelief in mankind which residence in 
China has fostered in her heart, drew down upon 
her the captain's wrath, and when she enforced 
some of her statements by the avowal that our 
young adopted brother Dick was about the only 
person there in whom she had any real confidence, 
he was nearly dumb with a comical kind of 
indignation, and proposed an adjournment to the 
moonlight outside. There he renewed the strife, 
and feeling the need of some stimulant to 
support him in his arguments, he called for tea 
to be brought up on deck, and we all quaffed 
" the cup that cheers " with great enjoyment. 

The fact is undeniable that none of us were in 
any hurry to get to Singapore ; but early in the 



Saigon and Singapore 229 

morning of August 13th, we passed among the 
outlying islands into a calm, wide bay, and drew 
up to one of the wharves at breakfast time. 
The captain took malicious pains to have a 
dourian brought to the table and placed before 
his friend Leroy, who had boastingly declared 
the strength of his purpose to eat one, despite 
its reputed odor. One whiff of it, which ver- 
ified all Captain Fay had told us, caused Mr. 
Leroy to lean back in his chair, and recommend 
with rather a sickly smile that it should be 
exhibited to us through the cabin window, if the 
young ladies cared to make further inspection of 
it. 

" Here steward," cried the captain, brimful of 
fun, but with a very grave exterior ; " you takee 
him (the dourian) ; we no wantchee here — we 
makee look see him outside window," and the 
offensive dourian was conveyed to a distance. 

In a "gharry," the Singapore hack, we rattled 
through the streets to the Clarendon Hotel, 
which stands in a lovely garden, fronting the 



230 Amy and Mariorfs Voyage. 

bay. It seemed deserted by all its boarders, and 
we wondered, when summoned to tiffin in a 
great hall, that no one beside our three selves sat 
down at the table. 

The reason was that there were no ladies 
staying there, and all the gentlemen were 
at their offices. At the seven o'clock dinner 
there was a formidable array of them, and when 
Marion and I left the table, each one pushed his 
chair back with a loud scrape on the uncarpeted 
floor and stood up, while we marched down the 
long room in much surprise and embarrassment, 
for we were not acquainted with English dinner- 
company etiquette, and had not been prepared 
for such a proceeding on the part of ten 
strangers. 

One charm of these East Indian houses is a 
kind of verandah room furnished with cane 
lounging chairs, the floor covered with matting, 
and three sides of it open to the perfumed 
breezes. The parlor of the Clarendon Hotel 
leads into a retreat of this description, and there 



Saigon and Singapore. 231 

we spent the evening, looking through the white 
columns upon a tropical garden below us, and 
beyond its foliage to the quiet waters of the bay. 
We could hear the clash of a slow wave breaking 
at intervals on the sand, and behind one tall 
cocoanut palm a full moon shone gloriously. 
The effect was heightened by a sweet-tuned 
music box in the parlor, and through the half- 
closed door stole out to us the chimes of " Mon- 
astery Bells." 

There was a boudoir connected with our room 
at the hotel, of which one whole side opened to 
the garden, and was shaded at will by Venetian 
blinds ; and at seven o'clock every morning we 
partook of "chow-chow," brought there on a 
tray by a stately Kling, whose jet-black beauty 
was well set off by his snowy clothes and turban 
of striped scarlet and white cloth. Chow-chow 
in this case means a meal, not a pickle, and the 
term is generally applied to slight refreshment 
taken before the late breakfast. Crispy toast, 
fragrant tea, butter moulded into the semblance 



232 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

of a creamy rose, and thick slices of pine-apple 
that melt in the mouth, were the viands brought 
us by our Kling waiter ; and who could resist 
such temptations, even when knowing they 
would take off the edge of an appetite for the 
substantial breakfast? We never attempted to 
resist, and the result was that afterwards, curried 
chicken, and rice, and fried cakes were treated 
with indifference, and Mr. Dowling worried at 
our lack of appetite. 

On Sunday morning we started to walk to the 
Scotch Kirk, persuading ourselves that we 
should not suffer from the heat ; but we did, and 
were wishing for a gharry, when wheels sounded 
behind us, and from a carriage a young lady 
alighted, advancing with a frank, cordial manner 
to greet us, and introduced herself as the 
daughter of an elder in the Kirk. 

" Are you going there ? " she asked ; " I 
thought it was probable, and also believed you 
must be the American strangers who I heard 
had come down with Captain Fay, and were 



Saigon and Singapore, 233 

staying at the Clarendon. I wish, to save you 
the hot walk, if you will allow me the pleasure." 

This good Samaritan, Miss Elsie Moore, not 
only conveyed us to the Kirk, but gave us a seat 
in her pew, and offered many thoughtful atten- 
tions, and after the services kindly responded to 
our request that she would call on us. 

Mr. Dowling met an old friend of his in the 
porch, a Mr. Vane, who insisted that we should 
drive out of town to take tiffin with him, and we 
did so. One of the many smooth, shady roads 
that led out to the suburban residences, brought 
us to an elevated mansion with wide verandahs 
commanding a view of a distant hill-range, and 
there we had a light repast, and with conversa- 
tion and sacred music passed away the hot hours 
of the day, driving into town in time for the 
service at the Episcopal church, just before dark. 
It was an elegant building, and the congregation 
was a very fashionable one, but a more formally 
conducted service I never attended, and I felt 
when it was over as if I had asked for bread and 



284 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

been given a stone. The fault may have been 
partly in myself, for I might have worshipped in 
God's house with a heart rising above coldly- 
read prayers, and a neat little moral essay of a 
sermon; yet after we passed out from those 
gothic arches, we went where my soul's craving 
was satisfied — and where was that, do you sup- 
pose? In the "Bethesda," an humble chapel 
where congregate that class of. believers who 
call themselves " Brethren." They were not 
fashionable, and had neither minister nor choir. 
We all united fervently in singing such simple 
hymns as " Come to Jesus, just now " ; and a lay 
brother at the desk, gave us an affectionate, plain 
exhortation that bore out the spirit of those 
words. It seemed to me like the gatherings of 
the apostles in that "large, upper room," where, 
" with one accord, they continued in prayer and 
supplication ; " and we drove back to the hotel 
feeling satisfied that we had made the most of 
our Sunday in Singapore. 

The first thing that happened on Monday, was 



Saigon and Singapore. 237 

a call from a gentleman- whose brother (now on 
a visit to Scotland) owns a fine cocoanut grove 
six miles ont of town, to which he promised to 
drive us that afternoon ; and he came for us in a 
comfortable barouche, greatly to our relief, after 
some forebodings of a ride in one of those noisy 
gharries. We drove about the town for a little 
while ; down the Esplanade — a wide road that 
skirts the bay — seeing there several handsome 
buildings; then wound through the somewhat 
narrow and ill-paved, or paveless, business 
streets, where there seems to be nothing of 
nature's loveliness or of man's device to attract 
the eye ; and' round the corners come whiffs of 
the strongest dourian odor, until we were glad 
when the horses' heads were turned towards the 
country. 

In one street the Chinese were holding a feast 
in honor of their departed ancestors. A long 
table was set out there, gaudily ornamented, and 
laden with their own peculiar delicacies for the 
benefit of those restless souls who, according to 



238 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

the popular belief, are continually demanding 
some attention on the part of their living rel- 
atives. 

Our barouche rolled easily over a level road, 
bordered on either hand by crowds of tall cocoa 
palms, with little huts scattered about in the 
shade of their feathery leaves. After miles of 
this scarcely varied scenery, we turned into 
an avenue that led to the factories, where they 
make ropes out of the fibrous .cocoanut shell, and 
oil from the nut. There were a good many 
long, low sheds, where the work was going on, 
and we alighted to inspect it, and strolled 
through the grove, eating pieces of the hard, 
white nut, slightly apprehensive that a whole 
one might at any time descend upon our heads 
from the tree-tops. 

Our escort then said it must be nearly dinner- 
time, and we would drive to the house. I had 
expected to see an elegant mansion, where at 
least one lady would receive us ; therefore, judge 
of my amazement when we alighted before a 



Saigon and Singapore. 239 

picturesque, though rather rough bungalow, 
where it appeared that our companion and a 
young man who has charge of the factories kept 
bachelors' hall, and the only invited guest beside 
Mr. fowling and his girl proteges was the 
minister of the Kirk ! 

Dinner was served in a stone-paved room on 
the ground floor. A truly English round of 
beef, and oat cake as truly Scotch, were set 
before us, together with things that especially 
appertain to the tropics, and it was a very 
enjoyable repast, even if it did seem odd to have 
no hostess at the board. From an upper balcony 
afterwards we could see that for miles around 
were cocoanut trees — their plumy heads waving 
in the night breeze, and beyond them in one 
direction we could have had by daylight a far-off 
glimpse of the sea. Our drive back to the hotel 
was a dark one, for the trees that hemmed in the 
road were only far enough apart to show a 
narrow strip of the starry firmament above us, 
and in passing the thick jungle we wondered if 



240 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

tigers did not sometimes spring out of it upon 
late travellers like ourselves ; but, leaning back 
on the carriage cushions, we were too drowsily 
comfortable to be much alarmed by any such 
surmises, and just before midnight we drove 
through the Clarendon gateway. 

A few miles out of Singapore is the residence 
of a wealthy Chinaman by the name of Wham- 
poa, and the garden around it is visited as a mat-' 
ter of course by all sightseers ; so we were in- 
formed by Captain Fay, who made his appear- 
ance at our hotel the next afternoon with a friend 
of his, a Mr. Temple, saying briefly that he had 
a carriage at the door, and would take us to 
"Whampoa's Garden," unless we had something 
better to do. We had not, and ran with alacrity 
to put on our hats. On coming back to the 
verandah where the gentlemen were waiting, the 
captain handed us a letter from our Sunday 
acquaintance, Miss Elsie Moore, inviting us, in 
her mother's name, to dinner that evening. 

"I am going," t he informed us as I read it to 



Saigon and Singapore. 241 

Marion and Mr. Dowling, "and so are Temple 
and Leroy. You must accept, for the Moores are 
charming people, and we shall be sure of a 
pleasant time." 

" Of course," we replied, "but we can't go to 
a dinner-party dressed as we are now for a drive. 
You will have to wait fifteen minutes longer," 
and we wasted no time in arraying ourselves in 
evening costumes ; then drove out to Whampoa's 
beautiful grounds. 

It is a stiff beauty that reigns there, or it 
would not be truly Chinese. Straight, narrow 
alleys intersect the flower beds ; box bushes 
trimmed into shapes of -baskets, pagodas, and 
animals stand at every turn ; long canals about 
three feet in width, are filled with lotus, whose 
rosy heads tremble on their slender stalks as if 
too heavy to hold up, and in a miniature lake we 
saw the Victoria Regia's great petals unfolded. 
It was not our expectation to enter the house, 
and we were the more pleased at receiving an 
invitation to do so from the proprietor, whom 



242 Amy and Marion's Voyage, 

we met in the arbor, where he was exhibiting 
one of his pets, a huge six-legged turtle, to three 
gentlemen. Captain Fay knew these strangers, 
and presented us to Admiral Rodgers, and two 
captains from the United States frigate " Colo- 
rado," one being the captain of -the fleet, the 
other of the frigate. We were also introduced 
to old Mr. Whampoa, a most courteous gentle- 
man who speaks English well, and pressed us to 
walk into his house and take some refreshment. 
I was glad we had that opportunity, for the 
house is more remarkable than the garden, 
according to my judgment, and presents a singu- 
lar combination of Chinese and English styles. 
One parlor opens into another by a great circular 
hole surrounded with openwork carving ; costly 
rugs are spread upon the polished floors ; mar- 
vels of ivory and sandal wood are scattered in 
profusion, and among furniture of unmistakably 
Chinese origin, the appearance of a few of such 
tables and chairs as you might see in any fine 
house in an American city causes one to feel 




Page 242. 



Saigon and Singapore. 245 

some surprise. Tea, cake, and wine were 
served, and we bade our host adieu with many- 
thanks for his politeness. The stately, white- 
headed Admiral gave us an invitation to visit the 
" Colorado " on our return to Hong Kong, and 
told Mr. Dowling that she would soon follow 
the " Suwanee " there. 

It was too dark when we reached the Moores' 
house to get much idea of its outer appearance^ 
and it mattered little, for the inside was bright 
and homelike, and Miss Elsie's welcome dis- 
pelled all formality. Her father and younger 
sister greeted us kindly, and Mrs. Moore took 
our hearts captive at once. Her presence would 
make any one feel happier and better, and she is 
one, I think, to whom motherless girls, espe- 
cially, must be drawn by some influence too 
sweet to be explained. Marion says, " It is just 
as if she spread out a great pair of wings and 
folded us under them." Our being thrown 
almost exclusively of late into the society of gen- 
tlemen made us appreciate in an unwonted 



246 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

degree what it was to sit down beside this dear 
motherly Scotch lady, and answer her questions 
of affectionate interest about our ship, our 
brother, the long sea voyage, and our distant 
home. I cannot say that a feast of reason 
prevailed at dinner, for we were all too jolly to 
be very sensible. Captain Fay and Mr. Temple, 
who were old friends of the Mo ores and very 
much at home, kept us in a state of merriment, 
and another guest, Mr. Fields, from Massachu- 
setts, contributed to the general festivity. 
When dessert had received sufficient attention, 
Mrs. Moore arose, and we young females fol- 
lowed her out of the room like a brood of 
ducklings going after the parent bird, in accor- 
dance with the unprofitable custom of the ladies 
leaving the gentlemen to drink and smoke by 
themselves. These gentlemen did not appear to 
be winebibbers, however, for we were soon 
interrupted in a cosy chat over our coffee by 
their entering the parlor and proposing music. 
Every one sang or played, and we reflected no 



Saigon and Singapore. 247 

credit upon our instructors by our part of the 
performances ; for, attempting to sing one of 
our duets, we made a grievous failure. Finally 
we Americans waxed patriotic and indulged in 
"The Star Spangled Banner," which merged 
into " The Bonnets of Blue," out of compliment 
to our entertainers, and a general uproar ended 
the evening. 

On the day of our departure from Singapore 
Mr. Dowling noticed in one of the offices down 
town two large boxes of shells and coral — 
a great variety. He told the clerk that he 
should like to find a collection similar to this one 
for the young ladies who were travelling with 
him. 

"These boxes are to go on board the 
1 Suwanee ' to-day, sir," was the reply. " Mr. 
Fields intends them for Miss Roslyn and Miss 
Gilmer." Was not that a fine present ? 

Another reminiscence of Singapore was given 
me by the gentleman who took us out to the 
cocoanut grove — an alligator made of cork, 



248 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

frightfully natural, and ready to squirm his long 
tail at the slightest movement. It is the work 
of a Buddhist priest, I was told. After a few 
more drives and dinners, we took leave of that 
lovely land, and of those friends who had so 
greatly contributed to our enjoyment while 
there, and the " Suwanee " began her return trip 
on a bright August afternoon, receiving a salute 
from the noble " Colorado " as we passed her in 
the Bay. We were already on board the 
steamer when the " Catharine Apcar " from 
Hong Kong came up to the dock, and letters 
from Arthur and Dick Payne were handed to us 
just as the warning whistle sounded, and the last 
farewells were spoken. Naturally, we were grat- 
ified to learn how much they had missed us in 
our harbor-home, and were aided in realizing it 
by a pen-and-ink sketch entitled "Evenings on 
the ' Lyra ' during the month of August, 1870." 
Four young men therein were represented as sit- 
ting in a row on deck, their feet up on the 
railing, expressions of extreme dejection on their 



Saigon and Singapore. 249 

faces, and cigars in the mouths of two, who ap- 
peared to be Dick and Mr. Fordyce. From 
Arthur's mouth issued these words : " Well ; if I 
let my girls go away again without me — ! " and 
from Mr. Duncan's — "I daresay they will 
marry some one down there, and never come 
back." The artist of this touching group was 
not revealed in the letter, but we had cause to 
suspect the second mate. Marion executed a 
companion sketch to this, representing herself 
and me, with Mr. Dowling and Captain Fay on 
the deck of the steamer ; each one of us comfort- 
ably extended in a bamboo reclining chair, and 
holding a tea cup — each face wearing a grin of 
unspeakable content, and Captain Harold ex- 
claiming, as he stirred his smoking beverage, 
" Now this is domestic bliss — this is fine ! " 
Underneath was written "Evenings on the 
6 Suwanee ' in the month of August, 1870," and 
we sent it to our lonely friends from Saigon, at 
which port we stopped again for a few days. 
An English gentleman and his wife are the 



250 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

only cabin passengers beside ourselves on this 
return trip. They are pleasant people, but quite 
reserved, and inclined to keep to themselves. 
The Captain and Mr. Dowling read aloud to us 
their favorite scraps of literature, and we spend 
our days on deck ; our nights too, I might almost 
say, for midnight frequently finds us there — 
deep in conversation (and tea). Early to- 
morrow morning, if nothing happens to the 
" Suwanee's " machinery, she will come to her 
anchorage under the shadow of the Peak that 
we were so glad to leave a month ago, and shall 
be still more glad to see again, and be welcomed 
once more on tbe " Lyra." 



P. jS. from Marion. Sept. bth. — I wouldn't 
let Amy send off her Singapore effusion without 
giving me a chance to tell you about some funny 
things that have happened since we got home. 
Oh ! we had such a glorious time, and such a 
welcome back ! I don't write this postscript to 
tell you that, however, but to mention two 



Saigon and Singapore. 251 

adventures of ours in relation to the " Colorado." 
That grand flag-ship sailed into the harbor a few 
days ago, and Arthur made a prompt call on 
some of the young officers, inviting them to 
return civilities by a visit to the "Lyra," and 
little did he dream that they would come one 
afternoon when he had gone to the city and left 
his lambs without fraternal protection. Mr. 
Duncan , who was indulging in his favorite pas- 
time of reconnoitering the harbor with a spy- 
glass, started us all of a sudden by this an- 
nouncement : 

" I see one of the ' Colorado's ' boats bearing 
down on us. It is full of officers — what will 
you do ? " (this in a horrified tone, for he surely 
thought that ravening wolves were descending 
upon the fold in the absence of its guardian). 

" Tell them the captain has gone ashore, and 
perhaps they won't come on board," said Amy, 
as we hurried down to the cabin so that they 
shouldn't be allured by white draperies, and 
waited there, quaking for fear of these unknown 



252 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

monsters. Mr. Duncan virtuously did as he was 
told in answer to their inquiries, and they were 
about to order their oarsmen to push off from 
the ship, when the irrepressible Fordyce added 
in a distinct tone, " The young ladies are aboard, 
sir." 

" Oh, are they ? " said the chief spokesman, 
" that's all right. Come along fellows, ,the girls 
are aboard," and up the gangway they clattered 
with as much noise as ten feet could make. Mr. 
Fordyce preceded them and handed us five visit- 
ing cards, a useless observance, for we didn't 
know who the names fitted, of course, and they 
all marched in before we had time to read them. 
In some remarkable manner the introductions 
were accomplished, and I barely kept myself 
from an explosion of laughter — the whole affair 
was so ludicrous. There were not chairs enough 
in the cabin for such an army of men, so we took 
them up on the house, and each of us had two 
and a half to entertain. No exertion on our 
part was needed, though ; they entertained them- 



Saigon and Singapore. 253 

selves and us in the wildest style, flinging jokes 
and compliments around at random, and acting 
as if they had taken leave of their senses for a 
time, or at least had left them at a distance. It 
is probable that ardent spirits were influencing 
them, for if they had made several other calls 
that afternoon, and had accepted an invitation to 
partake of wine or brandy at every vessel, ac- 
cording to the doubtful habits of this place, it 
could not be wondered at that they should be a 
little beside themselves. No one expects Capt. 
Roslyn to treat them to anything alcoholic when 
they visit him, or if they do the first time they 
must be sadly disappointed, and never flatter 
themselves with that hope again. In the course 
of their conversational fire-works, they threw out 
an invitation for us to come to the next Sunday 
morning's service on their flag-ship, and promised 
us a " sermon of the first chop," adding as a still 
further inducement that they would sing " Shoo- 
fly" "after it if we desired. As you may sup- 
pose, we did not respond to this with especial 



254 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

cordiality, and they soon departed, after a noisy 
leave-taking. Just picture to yourself Arthur's 
face when we told hirn all about it ! 

The real spice of the matter lies in the way we 
actually did visit the " Colorado," — not upon 
the invitation of these fast youths, but, as guests 
of that vessel's captains, whom we had met 
in Whampoa's Garden. Last evening we heard 
the clank of many oars in the rowlocks of some 
boat, and straightway Captain Fay appeared 
with one of the " Colorado " captains, to ask us 
to establish ourselves in the cushioned seats of a 
large boat rowed by twelve oarsmen, dressed in 
navy suits of white and blue. Arthur had a se- 
vere headache, and it seemed too bad for both of 
us to leave him, yet if one had stayed the other 
would have had to also, and he ordered us to go 
and have a good time. 

" To the ' Plantagenet ' " was the command 
given the rowers. " We will call for Miss Jennie 
Bryant," added Captain Fay to us. This young 
lady arrived in the harbor only a few weeks 



Saigon and Singapore. 255 

before we went to Singapore, in the course of a 
long voyage with her mother on the vessel which 
her father commands. Her intelligence and 
pleasing face and manners make her a general 
favorite — with sea-captains especially, on ac- 
count of her nautical knowledge. I heard one 
of them say he would trust her to navigate a 
ship far sooner than many young officers. 

With this addition to our company we drew 
near the " Colorado," and under her bulwarks 
listened to the familiar strains of " Swanee Rub- 
ber," which floated down from the quarter-deck 
where the band was playing ; then we went on 
board. Two of our former acquaintances met us 
at the gangway steps, and gravely handed us to 
the deck; but the strict etiquette of the navy 
puts a barrier between the invited guests of a 
captain or an admiral and inferior officers like 
those flyaway sons of Mars ; therefore, after 
decorously escorting us to the elegant quarters 
of their chiefs, they drew back, and we saw them 
no more. In such high company as that of the 



256 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

venerable Admiral did we spend the evening, 
and by him were we entertained. He showed 
us the pictures of his wife and daughters, 
saturated our handkerchiefs with the choicest 
cologne, and ordered refreshments to be served 
on the quarter-deck, where we sat so near the 
band that conversation was at a discount except 
in the pauses of the resounding brass. Such 
honors as these I have described must cause us 
forever to look down upon lieutenants and en- 
signs, except those who are entitled to respect by 
their solidity of character ; and where shall such 
be found ? 

This, my dear, is a postscript worthy of the 
name, and I trust it will find an appreciative 
reader. 



CHAPTER X. 




SHANGHAI AND AMOY. 

MARION'S STORY. 

Eong Kong, Oct. 28th, 18 — 

;INCE the " Great Republic " carried away 
to American shores Amy's Singapore 
letter, with its addition of a postscript from my 
humble pen, two Chinese cities have been visited 
by your friends. We have been to Shanghai 
and Amoy, and as the train of circumstances 
which led to the trip may be considered some- 
what remarkable, not to say romantic, I must 
open this month's history with a short preface. 
While I was in California four of my friends 

at Mr. Clinton's school had a ferrotype group of 

25.7 



258 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

themselves taken to send me. One of them 
was Jennie Greenough, who, as you will remem- 
ber, has a married sister living in Shanghai. 

When on the " Suwanee " I was showing my 
album to Captain Fay, and came to that ferro- 
type, I mentioned that fact as I told him who 
the girls were, asking if he had ever met Mrs. 
Ingraham. He said he knew her very well, and 
should see her in September, as business would 
then call him to Shanghai, and he knew she 
would be pleased to hear that a friend and 
schoolmate of her sister's was in Hong Kong. 
Several weeks passed, and I had almost forgotten 
that there was such a lady as Mrs. Ingraham, 
when a letter came from her, inviting me in most 
affectionate terms to visit her with my cousins ; 
" for, to welcome one of Jennie's friends to my 
foreign home," she wrote, "would be only less 
gratifying to me than to see the dear little sister 
herself." 

What could any one do under such circum- 
stances but start directly for Shanghai, as we did 



{Shanghai and Amoy. 259 

in the steamer "Aphrodite?" Arthur left the 
" Lyra " to Mr. Duncan's faithful care for a 
fortnight, and went on the northward journey 
with his girls. 

Our fellow-passengers were three in number — 
one solitary lady, who kept herself shut up, and 
two sociable gentlemen, one of whom, Captain 
Nichols, was a Hong Kong acquaintance. Our 
commander was Captain Croly, who would 
satisfy your ideal of a bluff, good-natured sailor, 
though you say Arthur does not, and I am sure 
Captain Fay is no nearer the mark. He used to 
pound on our state-room door in the morning, 
and in vociferous tones summon us to breakfast, 
" Come out this minute, girls ! ISTow, don't be 
lazy ; " then, to all who happened to be in the 
saloon, he would shout: "I believe they are 
both in a bad humor this morning ; a fit of the 
sulks, perhaps ; " which assertion never failed to 
bring us out with smiles that contradicted him. 

The weather was clear and cool, and after 
dark it was hardly comfortable to be on deck, 



200 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

except while taking brisk walks in the starlight. 
Captain Croly's large room in the forward part 
of the vessel was the popular resort, and we 
spent evening after evening there, singing and 
conversing. On a Saturday evening the captain 
reminded us that the sailors' sentiment con- 
sidered appropriate to that time, was ''Sweet- 
hearts and Wives." He proposed that every 
one should tell a love story ; " not a second-hand 
one," he stipulated, u but a little bit of personal 
experience. I'll start first, and when I ' heave 
to,' Nichols must have his sails set ready to 
follow. I daresay he won't be at any loss, and if 
he is, I can tell you some famous stories about 
him, for I used to know him on Cape Cod, when 
we were both young chaps." He then gave a 
laughable account of his own doings, closing 
with a story of a fair lady passenger, and five 
years of waiting before she became his wife. 
The threat had so good an effect on Captain 
Nichols that he portrayed some interesting ex- 
periences. Of course the young ladies had 



Shanghai and Amoy. 261 

nothing to say on such a subject, but they 
listened and applauded, or made adverse criti- 
cisms. When Arthur's turn came he told a 
story of true love of a most romantic nature, 
which, at its climax, brought the gentlemen on 
their feet from sofas and easy chairs, and finding 
by the denouement that "all was right," they 
surrounded him with shouts of congratulations 
on the hopes before him. A beautiful face was 
exhibited in the back cover of his watch which 
excited general admiration, and the captain, 
giving him a resounding slap on the shoulder, 
declared that there wasn't a better story than 
that in the whole range of fiction. As Mr. 
Hamilton was unable to tell such a tale he 
declined to enter the lists. 

The next evening we were assembled as usual 
in the same place, but the captain did not favor 
us with his company, being engaged in navigat- 
ing the steamer up the river, for we had entered 
the Yang-tse-kiang, and anchored at ten o'clock 
to wait for daylight. In the morning the 



262 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

"Aphrodite" started again, but soon ran 
aground, and there we were, stuck fast in the 
mud, with the sweet prospect of remaining 
within twelve miles of Shanghai until the next 
morning. Our patience was not so tried, 
though, for after tiffin a steam-tug was discov- 
ered, and Arthur, Amy, and I took passage in 
her for the city. What became of the other 
passengers I really did not inquire. They must 
have found some way of transportation, and I am 
glad it was not on that same steam-tug, for my 
spirits were like a glass of soda that bright 
October afternoon as we went up the Yang-tse- 
kiang, and I could not refrain from executing a 
kind, of sailor's hornpipe on the little deck, 
knowing there were no eyes to observe me save 
those of my cousins, or perhaps of far-off China- 
men on the low, green banks. 

On approaching the city the attention is first 
attracted by the " Concession," as the quarter 
allotted to foreign residents is called. A wide 
street, the " Bund," runs along the quay, and 







biianghai Hack. — Page 265. 



Shanghai and Amoy. 265 

handsome houses surrounded by trees are built 
upon it. Public buildings and church spires ap- 
pear among the dark, glossy foliage peculiar to 
the tropics, and give to the " Concession " the 
appearance of being the most important part of 
Shanghai, as it certainly is the cleanest. The 
Chinese city is a large one, not remarkable for 
anything, cleanliness included, after one has seen 
Canton, we were told, and we never went within 
its walls. Hearing Canton called "compara- 
tively clean " rather quenched my ardor respect- 
ing the native cities of this empire. As we 
walked along the u Bund," inquiring the way to 
Mr. Ingraham's dwelling, we saw a public con- 
veyance that took my fancy more than any 
coupe" ever did. It was a wheelbarrow with a 
partition in the middle of it, making seats for 
two passengers, who are trundled over the smooth 
ground for the payment of a few cents, and 
seem to enjoy themselves. Presently one came 
along with a woman on one side of the partition, 
and a pig on the other, balancing her. How I 



266 Amy and Mariorts Voyage. 

yearned for a ride ! Not with a pig for balance, 
but if Amy only would — and of course, I knew 
she wouldn't, even if Arthur had not suggested 
that Mrs. Ingraham would think she had some 
strange American visitors if she saw them ad- 
vancing to her home in a wheelbarrow. 

In the course of time we came to a large 
house situated in a courtyard, and some stranger 
told us it was the residence of Mr. Ingraham. 
A lovely lady greeted us as eagerly expected 
friends, and we had cause to be satisfied with 
our welcome. What a delightful evening that 
was ! In a most homelike parlor, where a blaz- 
ing coal fire gave us a curious sensation of 
having been suddenly transported to our New 
England home after our tropical wanderings, we 
made the acquaintance of several pleasant people 
who had been asked to meet us, and I enjoyed 
above all things talking to our hostess and her 
brothers about their absent sister, giving them 
little episodes of her school life; while they 
drank in every word, telling me that seeing one 



Shanghai and Amoy. 267 

who had been thus associated with her seemed 
to bring her near to them. 

We devoted the next forenoon to Shanghai 
missions, and first drove out of town to visit a 
girls' boarding-school, an attractive house, where 
we were pleased with the airy dormitories and 
sunny school-rooms, the contented faces of the 
pupils, and the kind ones of their teachers ; and 
after a tour of inspection, and a rest upon an 
upper balcony to see through climbing vines a 
view of green rice fields, and a level, dusty high- 
way, they took us into a neat little chapel, and 
there the assembled girls sang some Sunday- 
school hymns before we went away. One of the 
missionary ladies came for us a day or two after 
to call on two families of Christian Chinese. 
They were humble people ; yet from their 
manners we thought they had studied the 
Apostle Paul's directions for the truest kind of 
courtesy, and that they considered cleanliness to 
be next to godliness. However poverty may 
appear in a heathen home, you are sure to see 



268 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

the altar decorated with gilt paper and gaudy 
flowers, and the household deities standing there 
to be worshipped, but in these dwellings such 
things did not appear. The head of one family 
is a very intelligent young man who is studying 
for the ministry, and I wish you could have seen 
how glad he looked when he spoke of his future 
work among his countrymen. If the emperor 
had offered him some important office it would 
have seemed insignificant to him, according to 
what he said to us, compared with the high 
honor of being " put in trust with the . Gospel." 
As we shook hands with him before leaving the 
house we told him we would pray that he might 
be faithful, and his work blessed. 

It would be difficult to believe that there are 
anywhere more uninteresting drives than those 
around Shanghai. The country is a dead level, 
the roads are generally shadeless, and the sun- 
scorched fields on each side are decorated with 
large mounds, the graves of deceased Mon- 
golians. 



Shanghai and Amoy. 269 

Yet on a cool autumn afternoon, to drive toward 
the setting sun in a high buggy with the top thrown 
back, drawn by two steeds that seem to tread on 
air, is not at all disagreeable, particularly with 
an entertaining companion. This was Amy's 
experience, while Arthur and I were part of a 
cheerful company in a beach wagon, and enjoyed 
ourselves extremely. To return after dark and 
scramble to get ready for an eight o'clock 
dinner, at which there are half a dozen guests, 
and perhaps a whole dozen courses, is the next 
thing after our drives ; and these long dinners 
are not tiresome if one has even a moderately 
interesting person for an escort to the table, and 
neighbor during the next two hours, but it some- 
times happens otherwise in my case. There are 
varieties in the human species, my friend, and I 
have sat through dinners beside such dismal 
specimens of mankind, that I could have eaten 
dry crackers and smoked herrings under the 
shadow of a tombstone with better appetite and 
spirits than were mine on those occasions. 



270 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

The greatest event of our short visit in Shang- 
hai was an excursion up the river to see an 
ancient pagoda. We went in two "house-boats" 
that have little cabins like yachts, into which 
five people could squeeze in case of rain coming 
on; but as the afternoon was perfect, we 
occupied the few square feet of deck room in the 
bows. Amy and Mrs. Ingraham were the only 
ladies on the leading boat, and one lady, with 
myself, composed the feminine portion of the 
company on the other, and all our companions 
were of the kind that know how to be entertain- 
ing ; there was not one of them of the character 
I have alluded to above. (And I did not refer 
to any people in Shanghai more than in other 
places, when I made such a disparaging comment 
on partners at the dinner-table.) After an 
hour's sail our boats suddenly turned into a little 
creek, and we landed to walk through the cotton 
fields to the tall pagoda standing between us and 
the sunset, and throwing the shadow of its seven 
stories across our path. A massive structure it 



Shanghai and Amoy. 271 

is, and bears the marks of age, yet it seems quite 
likely to stand erect through many more au- 
tumnal typhoons. I hope this aged monument of 
heathenism will be furnished with new flights of 
stairs for the benefit of curious travellers who 
shall come after us, that no civilized necks may 
be sacrificed. As for Chinamen, I think they 
are wary enough to keep out of it. 

After a toilsome climb, our party came out 
upon a narrow platform that surrounds the 
seventh story, and the three voyagers from the 
"Lyra," with eyes long used to the oppressive 
mountain walls of Hong Kong, drew freer 
breath as we looked far, far away over that level 
land; and Amy said she realized there for the 
first time the vastness of China. Dimly blue on 
the horizon appeared three mountains of nearly 
the same size, and beside these distant promon- 
tories there was nothing in any quarter to break 
the monotony of that wide plain. Our descent 
was difficult and dangerous, and I wanted to 
turn myself around and go down backward, as 



272 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

one does on a ladder; but the others went down 
face foremost, so I did not choose to adopt crab 
fashions. There is a Buddhist temple near the 
pagoda, and we wandered into it. Three great 
idols stand therein, and many more of a smaller 
size, I suppose they must be ; but I noticed only 
those three forms, which looked gigantic in the 
dusk. This excursion of ours claimed to be a 
picnic, and the picnic part of it consisted in our 
haying supper as we floated down to Shanghai, 
our boats fastened together for convenience in 
passing the refreshments, and borne along by the 
current. It was lovely in that soft evening 
light to glide down the river, feasting on sand- 
wiches, with ice-cream and white grapes! 
There were servants to wait on us, and the 
refinements of life to the extent of delicate 
china, damask napkins, silver spoons, and glass 
finger-bowls had been provided. Alas for this 
degraded taste of mine, which makes me most 
thoroughly enjoy picnics where you take pies 
and doughnuts with your fingers from a news- 



Shanghai and Amoy. 273 

paper in your lap! But I do affirm that too 
much gentility has at times affected my appetite 
more than grief or care ever did, though you 
would not have thought it on this evening could 
you have seen me dispatch ice-cream. Happily 
none of us eat enough to prevent a vocal concert 
after supper, and we sang until the reflection of 
the city lights in the water eclipsed that of the 
stars. This was our last evening with the delight- 
ful Shanghai friends. On the following morning 
we parted regretfully from them, as the " Aphro- 
dite " started for Amoy. This passage was quite 
unlike our former one. No social hilarity could 
prevail, for there was an extremely aristocratic 
party on board, who created an atmosphere of 
their own, and it was a very frigid one, causing 
our jovial Captain Croly to assume the charac- 
ter of a sedate, dignified commander, which was 
a lamentable change, in our estimation. Captain 
Nichols was again one of our fellow passengers, 
and he also was much subdued; yet when the 
"high caste" people all happened to be below, 



274 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

and our party, with two agreeable missionaries 
from Siam, had temporary possession of the 
deck, his spirits were in a measure revived. 
There was an interesting little girl belonging to 
the awe-inspiring party, who had not enough ex- 
clusiveness in her own possession to hinder her 
from making my acquaintance before we were 
fairly out of the yellow river, " Yang-tse-kiang," 
and she stayed with us a great deal of the time 
before and after stopping at Amoy. I always 
find real pleasure in the companionship of a 
child so intelligent and ladylike as this little 
May, and she would read poetry to me with 
wonderful expression, or sit quietly beside me 
while I taught her some fancy knitting-work. 

Amy and I had an inferior state-room on this 
downward passage, and its upper berth was so 
near a wooden beam that I used to give my head 
a violent knock against it whenever I sat up, for 
I never could remember it was there until a 
collision had taken place, and sometimes I 



Shanghai and Amoy. 275 

thought there must have been dents made on my 
skull. 

Two days of vicissitudes and Amoy ! " Not a 
nice place to look at, but far worse to smell," 
some one in Shanghai said of it in my hearing, 
and I agreed with the first part of his remark 
before we left the steamer; of the truth in the 
other clause we had yet to judge. A Chinese 
city at the foot of a range of barren hills was on 
one side of the harbor, and on the other a little 
island where foreign residents live, and to that 
place we went late in the afternoon to take tea 
at a missionary home. 

Our path from the boat-landing gave us wild 
views of sea and rocks ; green vines, and grass, 
and flower-gardens around the scattered houses 
there were indeed, but the general aspect of the 
place was sterile, lonely, and great boulders of 
most curious shapes seemed to me, as we 
passed them in the twilight, like enchanted 
monsters, petrified dragons and griffins, set there 
to guard this weird island. My unearthly fan- 



276 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

cies were quite dispelled as we crossed the 
threshold of a pleasant house, and were led into 
brightly-lighted rooms with words of hearty 
welcome. It was like turning from some German 
hobgoblin tale to a familiar picture of New Eng- 
land life, for these dear people had preserved the 
flavor of their own and our native land, and it 
was not only the old-fashioned pumpkin pie they 
gave us for supper that made us conscious of it. 
"We spent a charming evening, and when, after 
praying and singing, we rose to take leave, some 
of the missionaries volunteered to show us the 
city of Amoy the next morning ; or rather, the 
wonderful rocks upon the hills behind it, for the 
city itself, they assured us, was " nothing at all 
after Canton, and only remarkable for dirt." 
We returned to the steamer in a funny little 
sampan — an open one, with a cane seat in the 
middle just large enough for three people, and 
the boatman, standing behind us, used his single 
oar with such vigor that we sped over the dark 
waves and reached the " Aphrodite " almost too 
quickly. 



Shanghai and Amoy. 277 

Our experience of Anioy's uncleanliness began 
with the sedan chairs hired for onr tour among 
the hills. If I did any justice to them by a de- 
scription, I might find some improper words in 
this part of my letter when I came to read it 
over, therefore I refrain ; but there were tatters, 
also cobwebs, and one could not help thinking 
that smallpox might be lurking in the grimy 
folds of the curtains. The streets, of course, 
were very narrow and crooked, and I believe I 
could have counted from twenty to thirty 
different odors, each worse than the last, as we 
were borne around sharp corners, up straggling 
lanes, where black pigs and yellow children 
appeared quite as blissful as if they had had pure 
oxygen to breathe. The people of Amoy do a 
great deal of cooking out in the streets, frying in 
rancid oil many of their delicacies, and the 
foreign barbarian who is unable to appreciate 
these savory dishes, goes on his way with 
elevated nose and face of extreme disgust. It 
makes me laugh to see the expressions of our 



278 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

little company, at least of those whose noses 
were not protected by handkerchiefs. I would 
not cover mine, for I was no less determined to 
see all there was to see, than to smell all there 
was to smell, and Arthur said I inhaled the 
breezes as if they came from a garden of jessa- 
mines ! 

Out at last upon the hills we came in the 
glare of noonday, and left our chairs to climb 
among the rocks that seem to have been tossed 
about there during a warfare of giants. One 
boulder of eighty tons' weight is so nicely 
balanced upon a rocky ledge that they say a 
strong wind can lift it, and under one end of it 
is a little cottage that would be crushed like an 
eggshell if it ever happened to tip over too far 
in that direction. We ran down a steep path to 
see who lived there, and found a family who 
gazed at us with astonishment. The old grand- 
mother was spokeswoman, and in answer to an 
inquiry in Chinese if she were not afraid to live 
so near the rock, said, " No indeed, it was good 



Shanghai and Amoy. 279 

luck, good Fung Shuey." Now, " Fung Shuey " 
is neither beast, man, nor spirit, but an influence, 
if I understand what one of the gentlemen told 
me ; the good influence comes from the south, 
the bad from the north; therefore any high 
object, whether rock, hill or pagoda, that inter- 
poses between a dwelling and the north, has a 
beneficent effect on those who live in it, and this 
is why the old woman takes comfort in her 
balancing rock. 

Some of the younger people gathered about us 
with observant eyes, and the grandame's fancy 
was gratified by the Hamburg edging on my 
cambric dress, which she fingered curiously, and 
then, taking a general survey of us, she ex- 
claimed, " They are all beautiful ! " That we 
might not feel too much flattered, but learn 
what estimate to place upon Chinese compli- 
ments, one of the ladies told us that a member of 
the mission had been followed by the remark, 
"How beautiful she is — just like the goddess of 
Mercy ! " which sounds well, unless you remem- 



280 Amy and Marioris Voyage, 

ber that great ears, and a face painted with 
scarlet and gilt are always the distinguishing 
attractions of that honored lady. 

There were temples perched upon the rocks, 
and some natural ones were formed by the rocks 
themselves, their great granite walls leaning 
toward one another, making cool, shadowy 
retreats, where, after the stony pathway, we 
rested our feet upon a soft green turf, and our 
eyes from the surrounding glare. In such a 
place I felt the deep, sweet meaning of these 
words applied to our Saviour, " The shadow of a 
great rock in a weary land." That land was 
indeed a " weary " one, you would have thought, 
looking over the arid hills with their masses of 
stone to the wretched city, where thousands of 
precious souls are as sheep having no Shepherd, 
and I asked one of the Christian workers at my 
side, who had left a pleasant American home to 
seek those souls for her Master's sake, if the 
shadow in which we were resting reminded her 
of that verse in Isaiah. 



Shanghai and Amoy. 281 

"Often," she replied, leaning her head rest- 
fully upon the solid granite behind us ; " and 
His shadow has been as real and comforting to 
me in the dusty lanes of yonder city, where I 
have been seeking to do His will, as this great 
shadow is to us now, as we sit here upon the 
moss, with ferns springing up around us. There 
are ' sermons in stones,' surely, and these always 
preach to me when I come out here. When we 
stand on this wide platform of rock," she added 
with a smile, as we left our resting-place and 
walked out upon it, "is it not appropriate to 
sing, 

' How firm a foundation, ye saints of the Lord, 
Is laid for your faith in His excellent Word ! ' 

And many precious thoughts come as doves to. 
their windows. ' The foundation of God stand- 
eth sure,' and 'Who is a rock save our God?' 
Come now, and peep into that cave just before 
us," said she, taking my hand. I stooped to 
look in, and there was barely light enough to see 
a frightful idol standing as the presiding deity, 



282 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

over whom spiders had irreverently spun their 
webs. " It looks ancient enough to have been 
standing there for generations, Miss Leigh," I 
said, and she replied : 

. " Let me quote another Bible verse for a motto 
upon this cave and its grim inhabitant : ' And 
the idols shall He utterly abolish, and they shall 
go into the holes of the rocks, and into the caves 
of the earth, for fear of the Lord, and for the 
glory of His majesty, when he arise th to shake 
terribly the earth.' This old idol seems to me to 
foreshadow the fulfilment of that prophecy." 

We entered a temple, where there was a row 
of small images on each side of the room, and one 
large one above a central altar. I sat down on a 
praying-stool before the principal idol, and 
taking a survey of them all, and also of an 
elderly priest who was in charge, my astonish- 
ment gave vent to itself in words. "Is it 
possible," said I to one of the missionaries, " that 
this sensible-looking old man actually worships 
these painted wooden things, and believes they 



Shanghai and Amoy. 283 

are gods?" "I will ask him," was the reply; 
and after a short conversation in Chinese, the 
gentleman turned to me. "This is what he tells 
me : ' Oh, they may be gods and they may not 
be. Who can tell ? But the priests must live — 
the people must have something to worship ; and 
after all, I suppose it amounts to about the same 
thing as you Christians worshipping your 
God. ' " 

At that I turned around on my praying-stool, 
and with head bent on my hands I scrutinized 
the tiled floor and meditated. " Does it indeed 
amount to the same thing?" I asked myself. 
" Perhaps so, if we are only Christians in name, 
and perform the act of worship with a heart far 
from God ; but if the Father has reconciled us to 
Himself through the death of His Son, and raised 
us up to a new life in Jesus, how immeasurable 
the distance between us and these benighted 
souls, and thanks be to Him forever for His 
undeserved mercy ! As Faith says, we must do 



284 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

all we can to help them find our light, and leave 
them in God's hands." 

The old priest begged us not to leave the hills 
before we had seen the " Tiger's Mouth," a cave 
which bears a resemblance to the open jaws of 
that animal. We could have a fine outlook 
upon the country from this cave, he said, and so 
we did, if any view of such a dreary country 
could be called fine, and then we descended the 
rocky slopes to take our sedan chairs again, and 
once more encountered the offences of Amoy. 
This time my handkerchief did me good service, 
for I no longer had any heart to enjoy the 
novelty and variety of the odors. 

We crossed the harbor, and dined with one of 
the mission families in a pretty little cottage 
built near the sea-ward point of the island, where 
the cooling breeze, and the murmur of the waves 
coming in through open doors and windows, 
made me so drowsy after our morning's pilgrim- 
age that I should have preferred a long siesta to 
my dinner. 



Shanghai and Amoy. 285 

Our steamer sailed for Hong Kong that after- 
noon, and the two following days of the voyage 
passed as the others had in the pleasant company 
of little May, and the young lady from Siam 
with her venerable father. It was late in the 
night when we entered Ly-Moon Pass, and all the 
harbor seemed asleep, but the piercing whistle of 
the "Aphrodite" announced her arrival, and 
boats came slowly up to take the passengers 
ashore. We went in a sampan to the " Lyra," 
whose gangway and cabin were illuminated, and 
her officers ready with their glad welcomes for 
us. 

This fortnight has been one of rare experi- 
ences, which will long be kept among our 
treasures of memory, and as we like to have all 
our good things in common with you, dear 
friend, I hope, as I close my letter, that it may 
help you to share both the pleasure and the 
profit with us. 




CHAPTER XI. 

MACAO, AND RETURN TO HONG KONG. 

AMY'S STORY. 

"Royal Hotel" Macao, Nov. 5th, 18—. 

-a 

'N a great, barn-like room of this ambi- 
tiously-named house I am whiling away 
the hours of a rainy day, my friend, by writing 
to you. Marion "and I are spending a few days 
in the Portuguese town which is chiefly asso- 
ciated in the public mind with the poet Camoens, 
who, for a satire upon the Viceroy of Goa, was 
banished from his home, and died here in exile. 
(Marion, looking over my shoulder, makes an 
objection : " You seem to take it for granted that 
Gussie is not a well informed young woman. 

286 



Macao. 289 

Do you imagine she never heard of the man and 
his stupid Lusiad?" "Not at all," I reply. 
" I merely wanted to help her realize just where 
we are, and to fix the associations upon her 
mind.") 

Mr. Dowling, who might be termed our " fairy 
godfather," transported us hither, and invited 
Mr. Duncan to be one of the party. The latter, 
in his joy at escaping from the ship for a season, 
left his sedateness behind, and became like a 
schoolboy off for a holida} r , and during our three 
hours' voyage from Hong Kong in the steamer 
"White Cloud," we were all extremely merry. 

Macao is built upon the sloping hillsides around 
a crescent-shaped bay. Its row of white and 
cream-colored houses od the curving Praya con- 
trasts effectively with the deep blue of the waters 
that break against its granite sea-wall, and Euro- 
pean travellers say it reminds them of some 
Italian town on the Mediterranean. The " Royal 
Hotel " stands upon the Praya, and from its 
front balcony we have the most stirring view af- 



290 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

forded by this quiet town, from which the tide 
of commerce has been ebbing for many years, 
leaving it now a pretty watering-place, whither 
people from Hong Kong and Canton resort for 
rest, and the refreshment of its ocean breezes. 
In the evenings we look out on a more peaceful 
scene, as moonlight falls softly upon the sails of 
junks and sampans in the harbor, and transforms 
a white-plastered fort, gleaming among the heavy 
foliage, at one end of the crescent, into the like- 
ness of a marble palace. 

On our way here from the steamer, through 
the hilly streets, I saw from my sedan two women 
with a pole resting on their shoulders, and a trunk 
suspended from it. " Mr. Dowling ! " I cried, 
in dismay, " do women carry the baggage in 
Macao ? " Then I saw my own initials on the 
trunk, which was poor consolation, but I was 
glad there were no heavy things in it for the 
sake of those bare-footed porters toiling up the 
hills. Our chair-coolies were ordered to wait 
outside the hotel while we went to our rooms and 



Macao. 291 

rested ; then we resumed our seats, and explored 
the outskirts of the town by the light of a setting 
sun. 

The road^ led us to the summit of steep crags, 
where there was a wide view sea-ward, and far 
below among the rocks the waves broke in 
showers of spray. The rest of the way was less 
attractive, and through the heart of the town we 
came back to our hotel in time for a late dinner. 
There was not a crowd of guests sojourning 
there, we knew, yet I had not expected to see 
only a party of young men at the table beside 
ourselves and the host. One of them was a 
French count, and their conversation was in 
French, — decidedly frivolous, Marion and I con- 
sidered it ; and even with our slight knowledge 
of the language, it was evident that remarks 
were being made upon the "Americaines." That 
was rather trying to our composure, and I 
thought it fortunate that neither Mr. Dowling 
nor Mr. Duncan understood French, for the 
former would have been seriously annoyed at 



292 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

having his charges subjected to such imperti- 
nence, and I am sure Mr. Duncan would have 
been incensed. During the progress of these 
observations and of- the courses, our host, Senor 
de Graga, became uneasy, and in a low tone in- 
quired of Mr. Duncan if the young ladies spoke 
French. His answer was, " I believe not," but 
he did not add that we could understand it toler- 
ably ; it was quite likely that he was not aware 
of the fact, and De Graga continued his dinner 
with an air of relief. 

We adjourned to the balcony, and the moon- 
light made Marion restless to go up to the cliffs 
we had passed before dinner, so our dear old 
guardian told Mr. Duncan that he might escort us 
there. As for himself, that would be too much 
of a scramble, after the events of the day. It 
was a scramble, certainly, for after mounting the 
hill to the sharp edge of the cliff, we went down 
over the rocks to the shore, Mr. Duncan helping 
us, one at a time, — not without peril to our 
necks. Once down there we did not repent of 
our rashness, for the waves came curling softly 



Macao. 293 

in, almost to our feet, and the sea shone in the 
light of a great golden moon, and we sat still in 
the shadow of a crag, quieted by a sense of the 
beauty before us. 

Suddenly, with an English accent, these words 
broke the silence : " Yes, I think I know all 
about them. They must be the girls I heard of 
in Hong Kong who came to China on their 
brother's ship, that big one moored over on the 
Kow-Loon side, you know. He's one of the 
pious kind, they say; preaches to his men on 
Sundays, and goes to the hospital to talk to the 
sick sailors. A religious sea-captain ! He must 
be a queer prig." "A natural curiosity, I 
should say," said another voice. (The talkers 
were a little higher up than we, and our crag 
screened us completely.) " Mais les demoiselles," 
said a third person, u ne pensez vous — " "As 
for the girls themselves," interupted the first 
speaker; but the expression of his opinion was 
cut short by Mr. Duncan, who rose hastily and 
pitched a great stone into the sea, thereby 



294 Amy and Mariorfs Voyage. 

startling the intruders into silence. Then he said 
distinctly, -" I think it is time for us to return." 
The strangers had a chance to retreat, of which 
they were not slow to take advantage, and a 
little gurgle of laughter from Marion followed 
them. I tried to keep her from such an out- 
break, though I felt inclined to join in it, and 
she declared I half strangled her. Our faithful 
friend was more provoked than amused at this 
little episode, and a remark about " those imper- 
tinent fellows " came from under his moustache 
as he gave us a helping hand to climb up to the 
road. 

The day's adventures ended with an experi- 
ence of rats in our room, a great, bare place, 
where the scanty furniture hides away in the 
shadows, and over the uncarpeted floor an army 
of rats, we thought from the sounds, took lively 
exercise in the darkness. If there were only 
two or three they must have been monstrous 
ones, and they raced about as a herd of cattle 
might scour a prairie, while we actually quaked 



Macao. 295 

in our high bed. I lighted a candle at last, think- 
ing it would be worse to have our foes attack us 
unseen, and as I did so a large rat disappeared 
through a hole in the bottom of the door. Then 
I stuffed a brown veil into the hole, foolishly 
supposing it would prevent the return of the 
rodent, and went peacefully to sleep, for his 
companions were less formidable. In the morn- 
ing the hole was open — the veil gone ! Mr. 
Duncan handed it to me when we met at break- 
fast, saying he found it on the floor of the hall. 
We knew how it came there, but refrained from 
any explanation. 

With a pleasant old Portuguese guide named 
De Silva, we made an early start to find the 
curiosities of Macao, and he led us first to the 
Catholic Cathedral ; then to see a grand ruin, 
that of St. Paul's Church, whose facade is stand- 
ing, with a portion of its side and back walls ; 
but where worshippers once knelt on the marble 
floor within, a little grove has grown up since 
fire made a ruin of the building, and the leafy 



296 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

branches bend over graves, for it is now used as 
a cemetery. A very long, wide flight of steps 
leads up to the stone court-yard before the 
church, and from that point of view I first saw 
the noble fagade, venerably gray, and so perfect 
as to give me no idea that the church was a ruin 
until I had innocently exclaimed, " What a 
remarkably beautiful shade of blue the curtains 
in those windows have ! " and was informed by my 
amused companions that I was looking through 
the apertures at the sky beyond. 

We visited the Barracoon; where the poor 
coolies are kept while waiting to be shipped to 
other lands ; and the Protestant burying ground, 
a spot chiefly interesting to us because of the 
grave of Dr. Morrison, the first missionary to 
China. He rests from his labors, and surely his 
works do follow him. 

There is no place in Macao where travellers go 
with more interest than to Camoens' Gardens, 
where shadiness and seclusion are suggestive of 
meditative poets, and irregular paths winding 



Macao. 297 

among the trees afford bright little glimpses of 
the sea. The exile's tomb is there, near a grotto 
in which he doubtless passed many a homesick 
hour, and as we turned away after reading its 
inscription, I noticed Marion's woe-begone face 
and her weary, dragging step. " Amy," she said 
in a despairing tone, " I suppose you feel just the 
way you ought to — in the spirit of the place, 
and all that ? " " Camoens certainly does seem 
very real to me," said I, "and just now these 
words of Mrs. Browning were in my mind, 
naturally suggested by a thought of poor Catrina 
dying at home, while her heart was here in exile 
with her poet, — " 

" On the door you will not enter 
I have gazed too long — adieu ! 
Hope withdraws her peradventure, 
Death is near me, and not you. 

Come, O lover, 

Close, and cover 
These poor eyes you called, I ween, 
'Sweetest eyes were ever seen !' " 

" Oh, dear me!" she rejoined dolefully, " why 
can't I get up some nice, suitable feelings? I 



298 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

don't care anything about the man and his 
Catrina — I'm too tired and sleepy for any more 
sights, and in future years I shall reproach 
myself for having stood here before his tomb 
with no more emotion than if it were a great 
hen-coop ! However, it can't be helped now, 
and one comfort remains to me; there is Mr. 
Duncan not at all concerned about Camoens, I 
know, yet he does enjoy these rural walks, and 
I can't even do that, because those rampaging 
rats last night destroyed my slumber." 

After this wail from our Marion we left the 
gardens, and proceeded through the city streets 
to see whatever De Silva chose to show us. 
Only one thing more I will mention, a peep into 
a gambling house, and at a table where stood a 
breathless group, watching some mysterious per- 
formances with small stones, or pieces of ivory ; 
and when a gain for one and loss for another was 
decided there were exclamations from all, and 
some face among the crowd acquired a deeper 
shade of wretchedness, yet fixed its gaze upon 
the table as if attracted by a fatal spell. 



Macao. 299 

After dinner and a nap, we took an open 
carriage and went to the summit of a hill at one 
extremity of the island to visit the church of 
" Our Lady of Sorrows." A rude wooden cross 
stands before its portals, and our guide told us 
that a sea captain, during a violent storm, vowed 
that if he were saved, the mainmast of his vessel 
should be transformed into a cross and placed in 
that spot, which was done when he reached the 
shore in safety. From the parapet surrounding 
the church there is a glorious view of all Macao, 
the sea, and the hills of the neighboring land ; 
and we rested there for a long time, scarcely 
heeding that the afternoon was slipping away, 
and De Silva longing to drag us away for fresh 
sights. We should have returned to Hong 
Kong to-day but for this drenching rain and Mr. 
Dowling's rheumatic liabilities. I do not object 
to this delay as I should were we not getting 
used to the rats at night, -yet our resources in 
this hotel are limited to a jingling piano and a 
musty backgammon board. Marion and Mr. 



300 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

Dowling are using the latter now, and I ought to 
go and relieve her, for more than one hour of 
that game would be severe discipline for her. 
The count and his party have betaken them- 
selves to other scenes. They behaved very well 
at table after the first evening, and hardly 
glanced at us. So no more from Macao, I will 
continue after we are in our floating home 
again. 

Hong Kong Harbor, Nov. 16th. 
After this letter there will be no more dated 
in like manner, for at last the welcome order has 
come for the "Lyra" to proceed to Manila, 
there to be loaded with sugar, as hemp refuses 
to fall after all this waiting, which has been so 
much more profitable to us than to the vessel's 
owners. It has caused us some impatient feel- 
ings in the intervals between our various 
excursions, for Hong Kong has not been wholly 
delightful; yet now, as the time approaches 
when the " Lyra's tall masts will cease to be one 



Return to Hong Kong. 301 

of the familiar objects in this harbor, and the 
scenes and friends who have known us here shall 
know us no more, we find that many pleasant 
things day by day incline us to linger. We 
have told you nothing of the typhoon that 
agitated these waters a few weeks ago, and fully 
satisfied our curiosity respecting the storms 
which are the greatest dread of navigators in 
eastern seas. I have seen some elderly skippers 
shudder when Marion or myself thoughtlessly 
expressed a wish that we might "see a real 
typhoon," and if it could be so terrible in a 
sheltered harbor, what must such a tempest be 
to those exposed upon the open ocean! For 
several days previous to the typhoon the forces 
of nature seemed to be gathering for an out- 
break. A strangely wild sky, sudden gusts of 
win<l, and dark waves crested with white, 
instead of the usually tranquil waters of the 
harbor, kept us on the watch for something out 
of the usual course of things. The "Aphrodite " 
was then in port, and we were invited one 



302 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

evening to dine on board of that steamer to meet 
Captain Croly's wife and a few city guests, but 
waves and wind were so threatening that to go 
in our open boat was out of the question. The 
captain hailed a sampan, and we were about to 
embark in it when its owner informed us that he 
feared " one welly bad typhoon come — all the 
sampans go in safe place and stay all nightee ; " 
therefore, as we saw no way of returning from 
the "Aphrodite," we gave up our anticipated 
pleasure, and sat on deck in the darkness 
listening to the increasing gale. "It is a ty- 
phoon, and no mistake," were the first words I 
heard in the morning, and with the dashing 
water and motion of the vessel we could have 
easily imagined ourselves at sea. The wind 
shrieked and whistled through the rigging, the 
rain poured down, and the " Lyra's " girls wrapped 
themselves in waterproofs and sat on the upper 
steps of the companion way, watching the wild 
scene, and enjoying it in a way that was almost 
wicked, I thought afterwards, when we heard 



Return to Hong Kong, 303 

that over one hundred Chinese were drowned 
that day in the harbor. Anchored so far from 
the city as our ship was, and with only a few 
near neighbors, there was no real danger for her, 
although she dragged her anchor, and the 
captain and mate appeared somewhat concerned 
about what she might do if the typhoon 
increased, and while we inconsiderate young 
things were rejoicing in this strife of the 
elements, there was great suffering and loss of 
life at the city quays. From houses on the 
Praya the inhabitants could see sampans tossed 
up against the stone wall, and Chinamen strug- 
gling in the waves, while great blocks of granite 
were dislodged from the solid masonry, and it 
was difficult to render any aid, one of the 
merchants told us, even to those who were 
perishing before their eyes. 

When days went on again under bright blue 
skies, with a suggestion of autumnal coolness in 
the air, and the recent typhoon had nearly 
ceased to be the prevailing topic of social con- 



304 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

verse, our vessel was honored by a call that was 
far beyond common events, and has led since 
then to some of the greatest pleasures we 
have known in Hong Kong. The callers were 
two English ladies, which fact made their 
coming all the more remarkable, as there was 
not even the attraction of a common country to 
draw them all the way across to "Kow Loon 
side," to visit strangers on an American ship, 
and the only reason for their appearance was 
that an acquaintance of theirs spoke of us as 
people who would appreciate and enjoy the 
hospitalities of their beautiful home. " Who is 
my neighbor?" is a question that seems to be 
asked very often in this colony. "What are 
these people to me? Why should I have any- 
thing to do with them? They are not on the 
same level in society with myself," — is a free 
translation of the question. But these new 
friends of ours, Mrs. Carleton and her sister 
Miss Barrett, would say, " Our neighbors are all 
whom we can make happier by our society, or 



Return to Hong Kong. 305 

help in any "way." Accordingly, it was upon 
their general principles that they invited us to 
tiffin and croquet ; but it was not formally that 
the invitation was passed — they were as gush- 
ing, Marion declared, as if we had just come 
from their friends in Great Britian. After this 
prelude, you may imagine us setting out on an 
appointed day to find Mrs. Carleton's house, and 
our coolies bore us up through almost perpendic- 
ular streets to a road which is the highest in 
town', on the very edge of the mountain. There 
we travelled up and down for a long time, 
uncertain as to the place of our destination, and 
this afforded us a glimpse of a deep gorge in the 
hills, through which a stream, crossing our way, 
ran under a pretty stone bridge into a grove of 
pines below, and in the opening, at the lower 
end of the gorge, was framed a lovely little land- 
scape — a bit of the harbor with the hills beyond, 
and a white church-spire in the foreground. 

At last the house we sought was found : a 
one-storied bungalow, perched on the highest 



306 Amy and Marlon's Voyage. 

spot of any house in the colony, and command- 
ing a view that is bewildering in its variety and 
beauty. The ladies were sitting on the front 
verandah with their work, and we rested there 
until the announcement of tiffin, a meal that is 
most pleasant for conversation, as it is apt to be 
unsubstantial, and may be regarded rather as a 
pastime than an affair of moment, particularly 
when a few of our sex gather around the board to 
sip delicious tea and peel bananas, after dis- 
posing of a first course of cold chicken and its 
accompaniments. 

Arthur and a few other gentlemen joined the 
feminine party upon the verandah before the 
afternoon was far advanced, and the servants 
brought out little tables, and handed around 
that beverage with which all who live in this 
land are wont to refresh themselves so fre- 
quently that you might suppose the vital prin- 
ciple to be contained in every cup of tea. 

An adjournment to the croquet ground was 
proposed, and upon a level, velvety platform, cut 



Return to Hong Kong. 807 

out of the steep mountain side, we played until 
the rosy flush of sunset on the hills and clouds 
had faded into a graver tint, and a new moon 
appeared over the sharply defined edge of the 
Peak behind us. Then we took leave of our 
hostesses and their other guests, having first 
accepted invitations to two croquet parties, one 
at the barracks, and one at the residence of a 
merchant in the city. 

Croquet assemblies, sometimes ending with 
dinner parties, became the order of our days and 
evenings for a while, and when we were begin- 
ning to be tired of them new diversions 
succeeded. u We take tea on the i Great North- 
ern' to-night," announced our captain one day 
at the dinner table. "Who and what is the 
' Great Northern ? ' " was our natural inquiry. 
" The steamer that came out from England to 
lay the telegraphic cable between Hong Kong 
and Shanghai ; and you will have an opportunity 
of laying in a store of solid information, my 
children," said he. Assuredly, it was not for 



308 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

lack of opportunity if we did not lay in such a 
store that evening, for the captain of this 
steamer took us to the telegraphic apartment, 
where there was an electrician ready to explain 
everything to us; then we were shown the 
machines for laying the cable, and Marion's 
head, she told me, was in a whirl from inability 
to comprehend half we had seen and heard. 
Perhaps other heads in the party were in the 
same condition. At tea we made a few ac- 
quaintances; the one we liked best was an 
English lady with so unusual a name that I will 
not undertake to spell it for you. She was very 
friendly, and asked us to come the next night to 
her house, where a choral society would meet for 
a weekly rehearsal, and the idea of hearing any 
real music again after so long a deprivation sent 
us home with hearts bounding gaily, like our 
boat, as it bore us over the waves. 

In the clear moonlight of a November evening 
three perplexed Americans might have been seen 
in sedan chairs, hunting the city streets for a 



Return to Hong Kong. 309 

house of which the owner's name, eyen, was a 
matter of doubt to them. To our no less 
perplexed coolies we gave a name that sounded 
as much like the right one as it could without 
being that, and after going back and forth, and 
up and down, we began to think that dinner and 
music were not for us that evening, when a 
stream of gas-light crossed our way from an open 
hall door, and there stood our friend in her 
floating white robes. She was looking out to 
discover the cause of the commotion in her quiet 
street, for when six bearers are uncertain where 
to carry their passengers, they discuss and argue 
the question so clamorously that you might sup- 
pose a serious quarrel was going on. That 
dinner had been delayed for us, I should think 
was quite probable, and those who at last took 
their places around a board brilliant with silver, 
glass, and flowers were "twelve piecee man," as 
a Chinese waiter would say, which includes the 
ladies. 

Selections from Mendelssohn's "Four Part 



310 Amy and Mariorfs Voyage, 

Songs " formed the evening's programme. I had 
a chorus book, and joined occasionally in those 
joyous melodies which carry the thoughts away 
to green fields and forests. My "other half," 
Marion, kept herself in a secluded corner behind 
the singers, and was so earnestly engaged in con- 
versation with a stout British officer, who stood 
beside her in the shadow of a window curtain, 
that I wondered more than once or twice what 
their argument could be. It concerned the 
first question in the Westminster Catechism, 
" What is the chief end of man?" she told us as 
we were walking down to the boat. u Didn't he 
consider that rather a novel subject to discuss at 
a party ? " we asked her. "Perhaps so, but I did 
not force it upon him at all," Marion said. 
"We fell into the argument quite unexpectedly 
and naturally, and he pursued it with so much 
interest that I did not take any pains to change 
the subject." "Well, little girl," said Arthur, 
encouragingly, " I don't believe he got any too 
much of it, or he would not have responded so 



Return to Song Kong. 311 

heartily afterward when I invited him to call on 
us. You will have a chance to ask him the 
second question if you wish to. 

Our next move was a picnic to Douglas 
Castle ; a nautical picnic, in one sense (although 
the company went by land to the other side of 
the island), for it consisted exclusively of sea- 
faring people — plenty of captains, the wives of 
two, and the daughter of one of them, besides a 
delegation from the "Lyra;" and with heavy 
provision baskets we went to that mysterious 
castle by the sea. I call it mysterious because 
everything about it is a mystery to me. If it 
was built for a home (though its great rooms are 
so unhomelike) why is it deserted now, save by 
one or two servants or keepers ? Silence reigns 
there, except on days when pleasure parties like 
ours awaken its echoes, and explore its lofty 
halls and chambers. It is reported that a newly 
married pair, not caring to take a long wedding 
tour, yet desiring to spend a part of their honey- 
moon away from the noisy city, came to Douglas 



312 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

Castle for that purpose, but two or three days of 
its ghostly silence and damp, chilly atmosphere 
sufficed, and the bride groom declared when 
they came back to everyday life that it was too 
lonely to be endured any longer. None of the 
apartments were cheerful enough for our merry 
dinner party, and a long table was spread in a 
very draughty verandah, where the sea wind, 
which could not spoil our cold viands, sharpened 
the appetites and brightened the wits of all. 
Hong Kong influences had contaminated every 
one of us to some degree, as was proved by our 
beginning to gossip when hunger was partially 
appeased. Innocent gossip it was, and entirely 
good-natured. The subject thereof was a Ger- 
man bride, who had caused a pleasant excitement 
in the community by coming all the way from 
the Fatherland to meet her lover, the captain 
and owner of a pretty bark, which is one of our 
nearest neighbors. One morning it made such a 
gorgeous display of flags that the public were led 
to inquire what could be the news from Ger- 



Return to Hong Kong. 813 

many, but it was known before many hours that 
the Captain's wedding, not patriotism, was the 
excuse for his vessel's festive array. The Ger- 
man girl is said to be radiantly beautiful, and 
"Who has seeti her?" was the question at our 
table. "I met her in the gardens on 'Band 
afternoon,'" said one. "I saw her through a 
spy-glass from my deck when she first went 
aboard the bark," confessed another, and he 
added that she was " a picture." " She is as 
pretty as she can be to stay in her skin," 
proclaimed old Captain Bird, and this peculiar 
testimony, given with authority, closed our dis- 
cussion of the bride for that time, at least. 

"You are all noisy enough up there," some" 
one called from the road below, and in a moment 
young Mr. Weir, of the house of Gainsborough 
& Co., joined us on the verandah, asking if a 
land-lubber could be admitted to such a gather- 
ing of " salts." " I walked up the Peak this 
afternoon from the city," he said, " and coming 
down on this side, heard your voices before the 



314 Amy and Marion s Voyage. 

castle was in sight, so I had to stop here to see 
what the fun was. And here is Miss Roslyn," 
continued Mr. Weir, " the very person I had 
made up ray mind to see to-day, as I have an im- 
portant request to make of her." To be short, 
my Gussie, he wanted me to present a prize, 
called " The Ladies' Purse," at the yearly Re- 
gatta, which was to occur in a few days. The 
time-honored custom that it should be presented 
by a young member of the single sisterhood 
brought difficulties this year, for there are few 
white damsels in Hong Kong, and two of them 
had rejected Mr. Weir's proposal, on the ground 
that they had performed the part before. As a 
last resort, therefore, he thought " Miss Roslyn " 
might do, and that young lady reluctantly con- 
sented to oblige him, if he would promise to 
write a short speech for her to commit to mem- 
ory, and deliver when the successful oarsman 
should appear for his prize. He said he would 
do so, and we dispersed in small detachments 
Some of us went up to the white turrets on the 



Retitrn to Hong Kong. 315 

castle roof and watched the sun dip into the 
China sea, and when evening shades fell over us 
the rovers assembled, and our procession took up 
its line of march. 

Regatta day came, and no sign of a speech 
from Mr. Weir; not even an opening sentence, 
— and how was I to know what sort of things 
Hong Kong ladies said on such occasions ? He 
had promised to write it for me "word for word." 
" Vain indeed are the promises of man ! " said 
Marion, but putting our three heads together 
we wrote a speech at last, and I committed it to 
memory. We went on board the " Australia," a 
great English steamer anchored by the race- 
course, where the elite of the city came also to 
witness the performances, and dispose of a cold 
collation. The sight of about two hundred 
strangers made me feel smaller than Mrs. Tom 
Thumb, and I longed to shrink into an atom and 
hide in Arthur's pocket, for stares were never 
bestowed with more effrontery than they were 
upon me that afternoon, — and it was not my 



• 316 Amy and Marions Voyage. 

imagination, truly. There were a dozen good 
friends of ours among the crowd,- and one or two 
of them managed to divert me so pleasantly that 
I forgot my nervous fears, and ceased my mental 
repetition of the speech. Suddenly I became 
aware that a small space was cleared around me, 
and the prominent figures in it were myself and 
a young man who had on a flannel boating-shirt, 
and he stood there looking embarrassed, yet ex- 
pectant. It was a wonder that I did not forget 
what I had to say to him, but I launched out 
upon my speech, groping meantime in my pocket 
for the blue velvet purse, heavy with gold 
sovereigns. This I extricated, and held out to 
the youth, who seized it eagerly, and muttered a 
few words of gratitude. J was the grateful one 
to have the ordeal over, and all I wanted was to 
escape from the "Australia." Instead of that, 
the Chairman of the Regatta Committee handed 
me down to the saloon, and gave me the seat of 
honor at his right hand, a most uncoveted posi- 
tion ; still, as my mind was relieved, I could do 



Return to Hong Kong. 317 

what politeness required of me in paying atten- 
tion to the eatables, and listened with some 
amusement to the talk and toasting. 

There will be now only a few days before our 
departure for Manila, and yesterday, our last 
Sunday here, we took leave of a place that is to 
me the dearest in Hong Kong — the quiet chapel, 
where so many times we have been taught and 
encouraged. Dr. Legge preached from this text : 
" The harvest truly is plenteous, but the laborers 
are few," and as we passed out under the stone 
arches to go down among the busy multitudes 
I seemed still to hear his closing appeal, " Will 
you not, my friends, each one of you, ask the 
Lord to send you out as a laborer into His great 
harvest-field, the world ? " During the row 
home, though the sky was nearly covered with 
gray clouds, the eastern hills, brilliantly illumi- 
nated by the setting sun, made me think of 
Christians living in the light and joy of the Lord, 
unshadowed by the clouds of trouble, witnessing 



318 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

to all of that peace passing understanding which 
comes from the glory of His presence. 

We were standing this afternoon on Mrs. Car- 
leton's smooth green sward, engaged in a game 
of croquet, when some one said, " There goes 
the ' Great Republic,' " and I dropped my 
mallet to see the American mail steamer leave 
the harbor on her way to our native land. Six 
steamers have come and gone since we arrived 
in Hong Kong ; each one bringing pleasant news 
from our absent friends, and bearing to them 
accounts of our happiness here ! Goodness and 
mercy have followed us continually, and when 
we sail for other foreign shores there will be a 
song of praise in our hearts as we look back over 
these six months in China. 



CHAPTER XII. 



MA1TOLA. 




Manila, Dec. 28th, 18—. 

have crossed the China Sea to the 
Philippine islands, and are enjoying a 
life of luxury in the tropics such as I have 
dreamed of on many a summer-day, never think- 
ing to experience. At the house of a hospitable 
merchant in one of the surburban villages that 
lie around Manila, the "Lyra's" passengers are 
handsomely entertained, and our kind host and 
hostess meet all expressions of our gratitude 
with repeated assurances that our visit is a favor 

to them ; a halcyon state of things, as we were 

319 



320 Amy and Mariorfs Voyage. 

strangers of whom they had only heard through 
friends in Hong Kong during our long stay 
there ! 

I am writing out of turn, as last month's 
communication came from my hand, but Marion 
has so large a pile of mail matters weighing on 
her mind that I told her she must forego the 
pleasure of a letter to her Gussie, and attend to 
those which I could not undertake for her. 

Will you believe we had more difficulty 
and danger in coming over here from Hong 
Kong than in rounding Cape Horn? It was 
even so, as I will explain, and to begin an 
account of our ten days' voyage, I must say that 
sea-sickness laid hold upon us before China was 
fairly out of sight ; not severely in my case, for 
Marion found me in my berth, singing from a 
book that lay open before me. I asked her to 
join me, telling her I was keeping the malady at 
bay, but she was not in a tuneful frame, and 
preferred to have "a good, square fit of sick- 



Manila. 321 

ness," for which purpose she shut herself into 
the opposite state-room. 

We regained our equilibrium in a day or two 
and resumed our methodical sea-life, to some 
extent, in sewing and reading aloud to each 
other. Homer's Iliad (Lord Derby's transla- 
tion) was the work with which we beguiled a 
rather disagreeable passage across the China Sea, 
and for days the weather was rainy or cloudy, 
until there came a calm, fair Sunday, when on 
the horizon Luzon's blue mountains appeared. 
If we supposed that there was nothing before us 
but a speedy sail into Manila Bay, it was a 
mistake, indeed, for baffling winds and perplex- 
ing currents met the " Lyra ," and drove her in 
a zigzag course among dangerous rocks and 
islands, and on the evening of November 29th, 
the captain resolved to anchor where the wooded 
" Corregidor," curving toward another island, 
formed a sheltered bay, and to wait there for 
morning. He was tired out, poor fellow, after a 
week of anxious navigation, and when the 



322 Amy and Marion'' s Voyage. 

anchor was dropped lie did not refuse dressing- 
gown and slippers, and an arm-chair in the cabin 
where I was reading " Dombey " aloud, while 
the rain pattered on the skylight. Suddenly our 
comfort was put to flight by Mr. Duncan burst- 
ing in upon us with bad news. a She's dragging, 
sir ! " he cried, and Arthur, getting quickly into 
rubber coat and boots, found it too true. The 
anchor had not taken a firm hold on the sandy 
bottom, and there was danger, if the wind had 
risen, of the vessel's stranding on " Corregidor." 
To heave the anchor, and sail on in the foggy 
darkness would have been as much of a risk as to 
remain where we were ; but daylight relieved our 
fears, showing that the anchor had been dragged 
only a short distance. Away we sailed under 
clearer skies, and congratulated ourselves upon 
the prospect of a speedy arrival in Manila. The 
track we had been making, as shown by Arthur's 
chart, was a labyrinth of zigzag lines, often re- 
crossing the same spot three or four times, and 



Manila. 323 

at the end of four days of constant "tacking " it 
reached the point where it began. 

The sun had gone down free from all clouds, 
saye a few gold and purple specks that lingered 
in his track, and a half moon began to whiten 
the sails as Marion and I walked up and down 
on the house, arm in arm, talking cheerily of the 
past six months' events, and planning a distribu- 
tion of presents among the friends at home. 
Arthur stood below on the deck, intently watch- 
ing the forward sails. " We are all right now, 
are we not ? " Marion called to him. " If this 
breeze holds until we pass the next island, 
'Caballo,'" — but almost as he spoke the light 
wind died away, and a strong current bore us 
toward an island that rose up from the sea in a 
steep bluff. Now, near enough to hear the 
waves roll up on the beach and crickets singing 
among the trees, our hearts stood still, for we 
knew that our ship was in peril. 

" Let go the anchor ! " rang out the captain's 
voice, sharp and strained, as we had never heard 



324 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

it, and in one moment more there was a 
bumping, grating sound under us, and the great 
helpless ship had gone on the sands. 

A commotion ensued; orders were shouted, 
and men rushed to and fro obeying them. We 
poor girls, bewildered, hardly knowing the ex- 
tent of the trouble, but believing that shipwreck 
stared us in the face, went below to be out of the 
way and calm ourselves as best we could by con- 
sidering the situation. Our ideas of the threat- 
ened shipwreck were vague, but we knew that a 
sudden gale of wind might easily drive the 
" Lyra " upon the beach, and our voyage thus be 
sadly ended. 

" What will become of us if we have to go 
ashore ? " Marion asked me. " There is a light- 
house there, and we should take refuge in it, I 
suppose, but it is well known that the Spaniards 
on these islands are not apt to be friendly to 
foreigners. However," I added, " we might as 
well be ready for what may come, and I can't go 
scrambling through woods and swamps with 



Manila. 325 

these thin shoes on ; " so I put on thick boots, 
and advised Marion to do the same. "Don't 
talk of boots," she said, dolefully. " Only think 
of losing all the lovely things we bought in 
China ! " " Oh ! they will save them probably, 
even if the ship never gets off again ; but our 
precious ' Lyra ! ' Think of leaving her to go to 
pieces here ! No, don't think of it while there is 
hope. Let us go up on deck and see what they 
are doing to save her." 

Some of the sailors had the small kedge 
anchor in one of the boats, with a rope attached 
to it, of which one end was around the capstan, 
and rowing off about a quarter of a mile, they 
dropped it into deep water, then the men on 
board the ship worked hard at the capstan, 
turning it round and round, singing mean- 
time to help them pull hard together. All the 
familiar songs which used to make us merry on 
happy evenings sounded at this time to our ears 
like dirges over a lost ship. Eagerly we 
watched the rope on which so much depended, 



226 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

fearful that it could not bear the strain, and 
almost imperceptibly the ship moved backward 
toward the buried anchor. At last, when nearly 
midnight, Mr. Duncan gave a joyful shout, 
" There she swings ! " and once more the " Lyra " 
was afloat. To raise a few sails and put a safe 
distance between ourselves and "Caballo" was 
the next action, and in the morning we looked 
back at its faint outlines with very thankful 
hearts for our deliverance. 

One more day and night of slow sailing brought 
us into the wide, open harbor of Manila, where 
the few vessels at anchor seem very far apart, 
not neighborly as in Hong Kong; and flowing 
into it, the Pasig river bears down myriads of 
drifting plants from the great Lake Bay in the 
interior of the island. The city is built along 
the river banks, and there is nothing beautiful 
in its aspect, yet even to live there, we thought, 
would be better than to remain in the harbor 
with nothing at all to see. Several American 
gentlemen came off at once to call upon us. 



Manila. 327 

One of them was Mr. Irvine, who told us that 
his wife had made preparations to receive us at 
their house in Santa Ana, and he hoped we 
would stay with them as long as the " Lyra " re- 
mained in port. 

Through a gateway in the massive city wall 
we drove into Manila, where are gloomy Spanish 
houses, with few windows high above the street, 
and gray old churches in every stage of dilapi- 
dation. " This one," said Mr. Irvine as we 
drove past a ruin, "was shaken down in the 
earthquake of 1843, and the one you see at the 
end of the street suffered from the earthquake 
of 1852," and so on, until we thought we had 
come to a very unsettled part of the earth. 
There were enough whole churches, though, 
most of them ugly and weather-stained. Tagal 
(native Indian) women in gay costumes walked 
the streets, or stood about shop-doors in the pub- 
lic squares. One fashion of dress is closely fol- 
lowed by all. It consists of a skirt striped in 
the brightest colors, and a piece of cloth of 



328 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

another color fastened over it like a tightly- 
drawn overskirt , a loose jacket, and a handker- 
chief above that, with the ends crossed in front, 
complete the costume. The men all wear their 
shirts hanging airily outside their trousers, and 
look as if it were the chief business of life to 
keep cool and lounge on street corners, amusing 
themselves with fighting-cocks. 

The Calzadas, a wide, shady avenue, leads from 
the dingy town into rural scenes, where on either 
hand stretch rice-fields of brilliant green, and 
thatched huts of the Indians are upon the road- 
side among tall bamboos, wide-spreading mango 
trees, and the great, glossy leaves of the plan- 
tain. There are the well-built and painted 
dwellings of the better class of Indians, or of the 
Mestizos, a race of people partly Tagal and 
partly European, many of whom are very wealthy, 
and in the midst of the luxuriant gardens are a 
few large houses occupied by foreign merchants. 
Into one of these we drove after coming to the 
suburban village of Santa Ana ; into it, literally, 




Tagal Women. — Page 328 



Manila. 331 

for instead of a front door is an archway through 
which the carriage passes into a stone-paved hall, 
and we, alighting there, were led up a flight of 
stone steps to the second floor, always the dwell- 
ing place in Manila houses. At the head of 
them stood a lady to receive us, and never, I am 
sure, did two sea-faring girls find themselves 
welcomed into a more beautiful home. 

From a wide hall that they call the " cayeda " 
open, spacious apartments on either hand, with 
polished floors and cane furniture, from any one 
of which we step into a tiled corridor where the 
sliding sashes are thrown back to admit the air 
and light. There are no glass panes in them, for 
in this region of earthquakes that article is gen- 
erally dispensed with because of its frailty, and 
its place supplied by oyster-shells, ground and 
polished, and each fitted into its own socket. 
They are not transparent, and light is subdued 
by them as much as if they were of thick ground 
glass, which must be an objection in the rainy 



332 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

season when the casements often have to be 
closed. 

Marion and I felt almost lost in the great room 
that was given to us, and were bewildered with 
so much space. In our adjoining dressing-room 
there were huge bowl-shaped tubs of stone or 
bronze, rilled to the brim with water, and after 
surveying these with some amazement we wan- 
dered out into our own especial corridor, and 
were charmed to find that it overlooked the Pasig 
river, flowing down beyond the distant city, and 
a peculiar rustle made always by a breeze among 
banana leaves mingled pleasantly with the mur- 
mur of its swift current. "It is more like a 
fairy tale than anything has been yet," said 
Marion in rapture, leaning out to gaze far up the 
winding river. " We are like two princesses in 
the Alhambra, with our lofty walls and marble 
pavements, and we are going to have a* great 
deal better time than any of those poor souls 
ever had." 

Arthur was unable to share with us the ele- 






Manila. 333 

gancies of shore life ; his presence being required 
on the ship, for Mr. Duncan was not at all well, 
and a new comer occupied the position formerly 
held by Mr. Fordyce, who left us in Hong Kong. 
(Did I tell you in my last letter ? He was sorry 
to leave, but had a chance to be mate in a home- 
ward bound vessel.) Our captain gladly avails 
himself of an invitation to be with us whenever 
he can leave his duties, and makes morning calls 
in our corridor to read and talk over home let- 
ters, or he appears at dinner-time and meets the 
foreign element in the evening. 

As we sit around the table, at the lower end 
of the " cayecla," enjoying fruit and coffee at our 
leisure, steps are heard upon the stone stairs, and 
we hurriedly adjourn to the parlor, there to re- 
ceive our callers ; American, Scotch, and Eng- 
lish, partners and clerks, elderly and young; 
so many gentlemen that it brings my mind into 
a state of confusion to try to remember their 
names and attach them to their proper owners. 
Our host is most diligent at all times and seasons 



334 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

to impress upon us the fact that our visit here is 
causing a commotion among this part of society 
(I mean the bachelors), because the coming to 
this island of young ladies from the United 
States is an event of more rare occurrence than 
an earthquake, and perhaps only less so than the 
appearance of a comet. We are assured that the 
" Lyra's " arrival, and the kind of passengers 
she would bring, had been matters of speculation 
in Manila for months before that vessel left 
Houg Kong, and any one who came here from 
the latter port was called upon to contribute his 
knowledge of the subject for the public good. 
One report that came before us was that said 
lady passengers were " both thirty-five years old 
at least, and blue stockings of the severest de- 
scription ! " What could we have done or 
looked like to deserve that ? On some evenings, 
when there are five or six callers at once, we do 
not have a chance for conversation with all, and 
so it was in the case of " the man who had great 
expectations," as Marion will call him. He sat 



Manila. 335 

at a little distance from us, conversing with Mr. 
Irvine, and would frequently survey us with an 
air of such — what shall I say? disapproval or 
disappointment — that we came separately to 
this conclusion : he had expected two extraor- 
dinary beings, and as his ideas were rapidly de- 
scending before the reality, was mentally ex- 
claiming, " What a fall is here, my countrymen ! " 
He has never made a second call. Those who 
pleased us the best on first acquaintance come 
here often, and we spend the evenings very in- 
formally when they are our visitors, often gather- 
ing around the piano for singing, or near the 
chess table, if Marion or myself have been chal- 
lenged to a contest with the ivory men. 

The days begin with a meeting of the family 
in the " cayeda " for " desayuno," or early break- 
fast, a light meal of toast, cold meat, guava jelly, 
etc., and then comes a drive into town while the 
morning breezes are refreshing. Not always 
into the city, really, unless there is shopping to 
be done ; oftener the carriage is drawn up on a 



336 Amy and Mariorfs Voyage. 

grassy common near the sea, where we look at 
the ships, and inhale the salt air, and after a 
pause go back to Santa Ana, glad to seek shelter 
in the cool house from heat that by ten o'clock 
is often intense on these December days. 

From eleven to one, a sewing and reading 
circle with our hostess, then "breakfast," which 
corresponds with "tiffin" in China, and a long 
afternoon spent in our corridor with books or 
writing, until the monotone of the river among 
the rustling plantains assists an overpowering 
drowsiness, and a siesta must be indulged in. 

As shadows lengthen we awake, and prepare 
for the pleasantest hour of the day — sunset, 
when every one goes out to drive, and in a 
barouche we roll toward the town again. If it 
is band night on the Lunetta, a lamp-lit park 
close to the water, the wide common is astir with 
countless barouches, and social intercourse goes 
on in Spanish and English. Dark-eyed ladies 
lean back on the carriage cushions, and wave 
their fans languidly as young cavaliers advance 



Manila. 337 

to pay their respects, and some of our friends, 
who are careering about on horse-back, ride up 
to bid us good evening, or those on foot invite 
us to alight and promenade the Lunetta with 
them, that we may hear more distinctly the 
plaintive music of the Indian band. 

Our bands at home generally play stirring 
music for an open-air concert, when crowds are 
moving about, but here it is soft and sad, the 
right kind to listen to if you are sitting in a 
quiet part of the park, looking out to sea, though 
not easy to appreciate while mingling in the 
chattering throng, and stopping to shake hands 
with somebody every few minutes. 

On other evenings we go out upon a mole 
that extends a long way into the bay, and forms 
a smooth stone walk, where a few people are al- 
ways sauntering up and down in the twilight. 
At such times the dreamy enchantment of the 
Lotus Eaters is upon me ; home seems very far 
off, unreal, and I feel that I would be almost 
willing to stay forever where " tropic stars look 



338 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

down," and let the "Lyra" return without me. 
But even if Marion would stay too, could Amy 
give up her brother Arthur, and all the attrac- 
tions of her native land for any charm in the 
Island of Luzon? I think not, Gussie. We 
drive quickly out to Santa Ana, for romancing 
on the mole has led us to forget invited dinner 
company, and among the dark foliage by the road- 
side the fire-fly trees flash out, sparkling all over 
like Christmas evergreens lighted up with little 
candles. I don't know the real name of this pe- 
culiar tree that is so attractive to fire-flies, but it 
forms the prettiest feature of a drive out of town 
when there is no moonlight. 

Last evening we drove to San Gabrielle and 
San Miguel, two "pueblos," or villages, on the 
outskirts of the city, and found our homeward 
way closed up by a torchlight procession in honor 
of the saints. It was composed of women, chief- 
ly, and large images were borne along on ele- 
vated platforms all ablaze with candles. 

In a recent drive after dark through a more 



Manila. 339 

distant " pueblo," we were startled by a sudden 
glare, of light that was from no fire-fly tree. 
Around an Indian hut twenty people were kneel- 
ing in silence, each with a lighted candle, for the 
Last Sacrament was being administered to some 
dying person within the hut, and these friends 
were keeping a solemn watch with the departing 
soul. 

At the sunset ringing of the church bells, all 
good Catholics here pause in whatever they may 
be doing to repeat a prayer. The men stand 
with uncovered heads, and some kneel on the 
wayside grass, while all talking and laughter is 
hushed for a few minutes. One instance of the 
peculiar way in which those of the Romish 
Church can glide from gay pursuits to religious 
performances and back again, was observable at 
the Christmas Eve balls. The 25th of Decem- 
ber occurred on Sunday, and before the stroke 
of twelve on Saturday night, all the dancers be- 
took themselves to church for devotional ser- 
vices ; then returned to the ball-rooms, and 



840 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

danced until the day was several hours old. 
Christmas Eve and the Sunday passed quietly 
with us. There is no Protestant church in this 
island, and Spanish rule has but lately allowed 
the existence of a regular burying ground for 
"heretics." Every Sunday evening there is a 
little meeting in Mrs. Irvine's parlor, and one in 
another house nearer town, attended by some 
who feel it a privilege for even two or three to 
gather together in Christ's name. There are 
very few who show interest in them, — only six 
young men come here for the service ; but it is 
always the pleasantest evening in the week, we 
think, and after prayers and the reading of a 
sermon, we all spend an hour by the piano, 
singing the dear old hymns. 

I must not forget to give you an account of a 
funny adventure that befell us last week. One 
afternoon Arthur and Mr. Duncan came out in a 
barouche for us to drive with them, and we took 
a romantic road that wound among rice fields to 
the Indian village of San Pedro, and through a 



Manila. 341 

narrow pass where the rocks were heavily draped 
with vines, and feathery bamboos growing on 
them far above ns, bent over in an arch, 
making a soft green gloom from which we 
emerged upon the Pasig river. There the road 
ended, and then it was proposed that we should 
leave the carriage to return through San Pedro, 
while we went down the river in a banca, or 
Indian canoe. Several of them were floating 
near the bank, and although Marion and I were 
unsuitably dressed for such an adventure, we 
could not refuse anything so jolly. Gathering 
up our white muslins, we crept into the long, 
narrow canoe with some difficulty, because of its 
very low roof, and were soon speeding down the 
river, apparently, in high glee at our situation. 
It might have been more comfortable, for the 
roof interfered with our view, and Mr. Duncan 
was obliged to sit in the stern where he could 
raise his lofty head, and let part of his incon- 
venient length hang over the side of the banca. 
With broad paddles our boatmen made swift 



842 Amy and Marion % Voyage. 

progress, and when we reached a place where 
the river branched, onr mirth was turned to 
anxiety, for we asked one of the men which way 
would bring us to Manila, and he pointed to that 
by which we had come. This puzzled us, for it 
was difficult to see how we could have been so 
mistaken, and at first we did not believe him, 
but we had lost all idea of locality, and at last 
allowed him to turn back, and go in the direc- 
tion that he declared was that of the city. By 
this time night had come upon us suddenly, as it 
does in the tropics, and we began to fear we 
should be carried beyond our landing place. A 
few lights twinkled from huts among the bam- 
boos on the banks, and every other minute a 
flash of lightning illumined the dark river. 

" We must have been on the way to Lake Bay 
when we first set out," said Arthur, " and I 
never had my head so completely turned before. 
Look out, shipmates, for Santa Ana church, 
because it is high time to see it, and I shall 
believe these Indians are taking us to the lake, 



Manila. 343 

after all, if we don't discover some familiar land- 
mark soon." " There it is now," said Mr Dun- 
can, his keen eyes first discovering the great 
building looming up in the dusk. Feeling much 
relieved, though rather guilty, we soon en- 
countered Mr. and Mrs. Irvine, who had been 
very much concerned for our safety, as the 
driver of our barouche had returned a long time 
before, leaving some indefinite message about the 
Seiiores, the Senoritas, and the river. 

" Not dinner time yet ! " I exclaimed in sur- 
prise, seeing the table in the " cayeda " had no 
adornments of damask and silver. "I thought 
we were very late." " And so you are," cried 
our hostess with a dismayed face. " My dear 
girls, have you forgotten our engagement to 
dine at the SeSora Barreda's to night?" Indeed 
we had, and with one glance at Mrs. Irvine's 
elegant costume, and at our draggled muslins, we 
rushed to our room, and arrayed ourselves for a 
dinner party in a flurry from which we did not 
recover until half way into town, when Marion 



844 Amy and Mariorfs Voyage, 

found that she had left her gloves behind during 
our excited preparations. 

We were guests of a Spanish lady that 
evening, and after saying " buenos noches " to 
her at first, I was at a loss for any more pure 
Castilian with which to address her until our de- 
parture, when I distinguished myself by bringing 
out "He tenido una noche muy agradable" (I 
have had a very pleasant evening). After all 
the studying during the voyage to San Fran- 
cisco, should you not have thought I might have 
had the language at my tongue's end ? But six 
months in China caused my learning to melt 
away like morning mist ; I was either too hot or 
too much entertained by other things to attend 
to my " Ollendorff 

There were people enough at the Senora's to 
talk English with, and the one whom we were 
invited especially to meet was a pleasant little 
bride, who came out recently to the Philippines 
on her father's vessel, and was persuaded by a 
Scotch merchant to remain here. We always 



Manila. 345 

have a good time at these dinner-parties, not- 
withstanding the disturbing consciousness that if 
a single lady converses more affably with her 
right hand neighbor than with the gentleman at 
the other side, it will be commented upon in 
various offices next morning, and the fact will be 
food for much speculation. Those who believe 
that gossip is altogether within the province of 
womankind should see how easily the stronger 
sex indulge in it, when their minds are not too 
much encumbered with weightier things. 

The best part of the evening to me is the 
homeward drive near midnight, when such 
moonlight as we never saw elsewhere illumines 
our way, for a half moon seems to give as bright 
a light here as the full orb does in the temperate 
zone. Banana leaves, half screening the thatched 
Indian houses, reflect its gleam from their 
polished surfaces ; the warm air is rilled with the 
sweet, heavy perfume of the Dama des JVoehes 
(Our Lady of the Night), and the three ladies in 
Mr. Irvine's barouche find little need for any 



346 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

head-covering, or even for thin shawls over 
their white dresses on these nights in mid- 
winter. 

The way that we were taken home after one 
dinner-party deserves to be described. We went 
to a house that stands so close to the river that a 
flower could be tossed into it from its back 
windows, and found, after leaving the table at 
half-past nine o'clock, that our host had a little 
steam-launch in waiting to convey all the com- 
pany who lived near the Pasig to their homes. 
This, at least, was his original intention, but it 
expanded into nothing less than a journey to 
Lake Bay, twenty miles above the city; and 
crowded together in the bow of the boat for the 
purpose of seeing at best advantage the moonlit 
scenery before us, we steamed on toward the 
lake, of which we had heard strange tales 
enough to make it seem like a fabulous place to 
Marion and myself. 

After many windings of the Pasig, our launch 
came to the entrance of a broad sheet of water, 



Manila. 347 

fifteen miles across, and about a hundred in 
circumference. In the distance were mountains, 
dimly seen, for the moonlight had become hazy, 
and after a brief pause we began our return trip 
at the witching hour of night. The chilly damp- 
ness of the air brought shawls into requisition, 
and jokes did not fly about with such startling 
yelocity as during our upward way, for some of 
the gentlemen were cold and sleepy, but a good 
deal of fun was kept up among a few of us until 
half-past two, when we arrived at Mr. Irvine's 
house. There the shallow water would not 
allow a near approach to the shore, and on went 
the boat to the domain of a neighbor, where 
they barely succeeded in making a safe landing 
for ladies by means of a narrow plank, down 
which we tottered into outstretched arms and 
found ourselves on dry ground, almost too stiff 
and tired for a walk of five minutes to our 
abode. 

" After so many gay evenings, one of you girls 
might have the charity to come off to the ship 



348 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

tonight and console two forlorn fellows," was 
our captain's plea when he came ashore to see us 
the next afternoon, and as I had visited the 
" Lyra " for that benevolent purpose quite re- 
cently, Marion said she would accompany him. 
Our kind host evidently thought she was making 
a sacrifice to exchange an evening on shore, with 
the social pleasures of his beautiful and brilliant- 
ly lighted " sala," for the melancholy harbor and 
a ship's cabin, and he followed her to the car- 
riage with persuasive words. "I am sure you 
would stay if you knew who are intending to 
call to-night, Miss Marion," was the last arrow in 
his quiver, but her firmness elicited from him 
the quotation : 

"When a woman will, she will, 
And you may depend on't; 
But when she won't, she won't,' 
And there's an end on't," 

which he delivered in a despairing tone as the 
barouche rolled out through the gateway. 

On the quiet upper deck of the "Lyra," 



Manila. 349 

watching the sunset facie from sky and water, 
and trying to cheer both captain and mate, who 
in truth were forlorn, as the former had said, 
being heartily tired of Manila Bay, Marion 
called their attention to a steamer that was ap- 
proaching them. As it anchored quite near, they 
recognized the English man-of-war " Hanover," 
from Hong Kong, among whose staff of officers 
is Lieut. Olney, the gentleman who discussed 
the Assembly's Catechism with Marion at the 
musical party in November, and did not appear 
to have had too much of it on that occasion, as 
Arthur surmised from the friendliness with which 
he pursued our acquaintance afterward. Dark- 
ness soon hid the steamer from the sight of the 
trio on the clipper-ship, but through it came a 
boat to the gangway of the latter, and by light 
of the deck lantern was revealed the jovial 
visage of the lieutenant. He was a walking 
news-bag on this occasion, and regaled them all 
with the substance of what had been said, done, 
and contemplated by the hundred (more or less) 



350 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

of our acquaintances in that mountain-walled 
city since we left it. Then he had to be told 
what entertainments Manila was able to afford, 
and declared it would be " a jolly lark " for 
Captain Roslyn to give a party on the " Lyra," 
and treat our city friends to a ship supper ; the 
novelty of which, at least, would be sure to 
please them. Acting on the suggestion we did 
have an impromptu party the next night, and 
the fun of it was no less than if it had been 
longer in contemplation ; but there was not quite 
such a merry-making as upon a similar occasion 
in California, for the etiquette of Manila would 
hardly allow ladies to mount the spanker- 
boom. 

Not believing in the proverb that advises one 
to do in Rome as the Romans do, we did not at-' 
tend a bull-fight given here last Sunday, and I 
do not suppose we missed any great enjoyment, 
or that you will regret that I cannot give you a 
description of such an entertainment. 

I could spin out this letter indefinitely were I 



Manila. 351 

to describe our visits to shops where the exquis- 
ite pina embroidery is sold, or to the old Spanish 
churches, where are seen the glittering altars 
and amazing pictures of the saints ; or to the 
houses of Mestizos, to watch torchlight proces- 
sions from their balconies, or merely to return 
civilities by a short call ; and at such times our 
conversation with the ladies of the mansion has 
to be held by means of an interpreter, who knows 
both Spanish and English. It is not fluent, but 
generally very funny. I might do better to follow 
the example of a young American gentleman 
who made calls with his pocket-dictionary, and 
would refer to it whenever he was obliged to 
pause for a word. Above all, I could lengthen 
this epistle (if it were not too long already) with 
sketches of many friends who are so agreeable 
that even Marion's confidence in mankind seems 
to be reviving. You can hear about them all 
when we come home, for it will take more stamps 
than I can well afford to secure the safe trans- 



352 



Amy and MariorCs Voyage. 



portation of these pages, and I will not add to 

their number, therefore 

Farewell, from 

Amy. 





CHAPTER XIII. 




EXCTJESION TO PAGSANJAN. 
MARION'S STORY. 

"At Sea" Jan. 21st, 18—. 

HE " Lyra's " bow is at last turned honie- 
Wy$- ward, and I, on deck this bright after- 
noon with my writing, have allowed the pen to 
rest idly in my hand for a long, long time, while 
watching the dim outlines of Luzon, now fading 
from our view. Not without regret have 1 sat 
here gazing back at that fair island, yet my 
reverie has been rainbow-tinted, for the memory 
of happy times is a treasure that cannot be 
wholly lost ; it is something laid up to be glad of 

and better for in future years. 
353 



354 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

We stop at Anjer in about ten days to get a 
pile of letters, as we fondly hope, and this 
one will be conveyed to you thence by steam, 
while the winds bear us onward more slowly. 
At least a hundred days of sea life stretch out 
between us and the arrival in America, and the 
sudden cessation of Manila gaieties, with this 
quiet prospect ahead, gives me the feeling of 
having suddenly awakened from a remarkable 
dream. 

Of all episodes in our Manila life, the crown- 
ing one occurred a week ago, and to ensure my 
peace of mind for the homeward voyage an 
account of it must be left at Anjer to speed on 
to you, or I shall rehearse it to you in imagina- 
tion both night and day. 

I have often watched longingly the little 
steamer u Dwende" from our corridor, as she 
came puffing up the river on her trips to Lake 
Bay, the great lake of which we had only a tan- 
talizing peep when we took that excursion to it 
after an evening dinner-party, and as we heard 



Excursion to Pagsanjan. 355 

descriptions of the great mountain Majajay 
(pronounced Mahahai) on the farther side, and 
of the tropic loveliness at its foot, it seemed hard 
to leave Luzon without going there. There 
appeared to be no prospect of such a trip, and 
the time of our departure was drawing near, 
when an unexpected proposal came from two of 
our friends, Messrs. Searle and Carleton. If it 
would be agreeable to Mrs. Irvine and her 
guests, they had thought of hiring the 
"Dwende" for an excursion across Lake Bay. 
In addition to the household at Santa Ana, and 
the gentlemen from whom the proposal came, the 
party would comprise Captain Koslyn, and 
Messrs. Wellington, Flanders, Emerson, Sydney, 
and Von Prockorofl. 

This was indeed a climax to the pleasures of 
seven weeks ! The answer returned was to 
assure those obliging young men that their 
design met with our cordial assent, and the next 
evening as the sun was throwing long, golden 
rays over the Pasig and its banana groves, there 



356 Amy and Mariorfs Voyage. 

were two expectant maidens out on the 
"azatere" that overlooks the river, .gazing 
toward the city for the first glimpse of the little 
"Witch," as in English we designate the 
steamer " Dwende." A faint strain of music is 
our first warning of her approach, and as she 
turns the last curve and stops before the house, 
we wonder what is that lively air, unknown, yet 
strangely familiar, which the Indian band on 
board play with increasing enthusiasm. " What 
is that pretty tune ? " I inquire of Mr. Searle, 
who is conducting me to the river bank, and he 
asks with some chagrin if I do not recognize my 
country's melody, "Yankee Doodle," which he, 
as a special compliment to the ladies from 
America, had taught to the band leader by 
singing it to him until he was hoarse. A convul- 
sion seizes me at this, and I nearly fall into the 
water. Is it the Englishman's imperfect knowl- 
edge of our time-honored tune, or the Indian's 
incorrectness of ear that has caused this air to 
improve so greatly upon " Yankee Doodle," and 




I 

iV 



Excursion to Pagsanjan. 359 

to be hardly more than fourth cousin to it? 

But if my friend's musical ability was at fault, 
I could do justice to his powers as a commis- 
sary, when, as the steamer went her way in the 
gathering darkness, we all repaired to a brightly 
lighted and bountifully spread dinner-table on 
the lower deck. The "Dwende" makes no pre- 
tensions to convenience or comfort in respect to 
cabins. She has one small room, which we 
ladies viewed with disfavor as a place to sleep in, 
and leaving our travelling-bags there, went to 
the upper deck after dinner, resolved to spend 
the night in our chairs rather than be stifled in 
such a den. 

Warmly wrapped in all the shawls and over- 
coats that could be mustered, our party of twelve 
steamed across Lake Bay, while Mr. Von Proc- 
koroff's violin music and Mr. Flanders' Scotch 
songs filled the pauses in our merry talk, and 
kept drowsiness at a distance until one o'clock in 
the morning. Then an elderly and lop-sided moon 
arose over the dark edge of the island Talim, 



360 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

near the middle of the lake, and somebody 
ventured to suggest that the few hours before 
sunrise might be profitably spent in sleep. 

Two sofas were brought on deck, and arranged 
in such a way as to form a convenient little nest 
for Amy and me. Mrs. Irvine dozed in a great 
chair near us; Arthur rolled up in a rug 
reposed on the deck, and the others made them- 
selves comfortable in various ways. It seemed 
as if no more than half an hour could have 
passed when I started up, and with half-opened 
eyes saw a great mountain. There was one 
white cloud floating below its level crest, and the 
sky was tinted with the soft, pink hue of dawn. 
The " Dwende " had come to anchor before 
Majajay, with the village of Santa Cruz at its 
base, and after an early breakfast we set out in a 
large banca in quest of adventures. Followed 
by our Indian band, playing merrily in another 
canoe, we turned into the Pagsanjan river, far 
too lovely a stream for such a name (but be sure 
you pronounce the j as if it were h), and 



Excursion to Pagsanjan. 861 

followed its winding course for hours. Its low 
banks were in some places covered with a thick 
growth of trees that bent over the water with 
their weight of luxuriant vines ; then we passed 
wide, level groves of the palm or mango, where 
opening vistas, bright with sunshine streaming 
through the branches, darkened, as they con- 
verged, into a sombre green, and there were 
glimpses of distant mountain-tops above all. 

Our banca was of sufficient size to accommo- 
date several chairs, which were occupied by the 
lady excursionists, while the gentlemen sat at 
their feet and made themselves so agreeable that 
we might have wished to sail on (paddle I 
mean) forever, if it had not been for feeling 
rather stiff and cramped after many miles of 
river-travelling. As it was, we were quite ready 
to land, when they proposed it, on a wooded 
knoll, by which the river makes a sudden turn, 
and dashes on in a series of wild little rapids 
between high, rocky walls. Indian boatmen were 
there with two small bancas, and it was the plan 



362 Amy and MariorCs Voyage. 

of our leaders to leave our large canoe for these, 
and mount the rapids. The two frail crafts 
could not carry all of the party with safety, but 
all did not care to go, and Amy and myself 
embarked in one with Mr. Carle ton and Mr. 
Emerson, while four others followed us in an 
equally small and more ricketty banca. 

On both sides of the narrow river steep cliffs 
towered to the height of three hundred feet. 
Ferns and moss clothing their rugged sides were 
kept fresh and brilliantly green by the mist of 
tiny cascades that leaped out from among them, 
and, with trailing vines and waving boughs, were 
reflected in the clear, quiet pools between each 
rapid, as if in a Claude Lorraine glass. After 
every one of these still places came a furious lit- 
tle torrent, where the water was shallow enough 
for the gentlemen to get out and push the banca. 
Mr. Carleton, armed with a paddle, made violent 
exertions to battle against the opposing force of 
the stream, and Mr. Emerson acted as pusher. 
We girls grasped the sides of our craft to avoid 



Excursion to Pagsanjan. 363 

being spilt out, and shrieked with fear and glee 
combined, thinking that in all our lives we had 
never been on such a "lark" before. 

The water dashed in, and we were getting a 
soaking, when, coming to a rapid that was more 
violent than the preceding ones, Mr. Carleton 
thought we had better get out and walk past it 
on the rocks — a matter of some difficulty, for 
they were wet and slippery ; but assisted, one at 
a time, by our guides, we made the pilgrimage, and 
then rested on a great boulder to watch Mr. Emer- 
son trying to drag the canoe through the rushing 
water, which almost swept him downward in its 
course. While we were waiting, the other party 
joined us, and by the time our banca had been 
taken through the rapid, and tipped over on one 
side to let the water pour out, Mr. Searle had 
concluded to take passage in it ; for the other 
one, he said, was unsafe if heavily laden. Mr. 
Searle is no trifling weight, and when we went 
on he bore down the end of the banca where I 
sat to such an extent that the water came over 



364 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

me in bucketfuls, I might say, and the little 
craft, turning broadside to the stream, narrowly 
escaped being swamped. 

Another landing on the rocks had to be made, 
and I proceeded to wring my dress, which had 
absorbed so much of the Pagsanjan river that its 
weight nearly dragged me over on my face. 
There stood poor Marion, looking like a drowned 
rat ; French kid boots, the delight of her heart, 
entirely ruined ; white dress stained a dark 
brown color about half-way up the skirt, and 
rivulets pouring from every ruffle. The gentle- 
men asked us if we would try another rapid, and 
I would have gone on with joy, for, being al- 
ready drenched, what did I care for a little extra 
dampness ? But there was a chance for Amy to 
be a good deal wetter than she was, and deciding 
to run no more risk, we shot down the river 
easily to the grove, where waited those of our 
party who had not ascended the rapids. 

" Well ! you are sights for an exhibition," 
were the words that greeted our return ; and ob- 



Excursion to Pagsanjan. 865 

viously the next thing to be done was to get dry. 
Mr. Carleton advised sitting in the sun, and Mr. 
Searle was positive that to walk up and down 
would accomplish our end more quickly. Now 
it is a curious fact that Mr. Searle generally 
makes me do just what he wants me to, though 
it may not be with a good grace, and this time 
we both promenaded the river banks, while, as a 
poem called the "Excursion" (but not written 
by Wordsworth) sweetly expresses it : 

"From sunstroke they were only saved by an umbrella's 

shade ; 
All stained with mud, a truly dismal spectacle they made." 

— M. Gilmer, Poetess. 

Soon the other boat-load arrived, even more 
drenched and muddy than we were, and a desire 
was felt by every body for the provisions that 
had been sent on before us to the village of Pag- 
sanjan. Therefore were all the excursionists, 
whether wet, damp, or dry, impelled by hunger 
to crowd into their large banca, and follow the 
"parvo y jamon" (turkey and ham) to the 



866 Amy and Marion's Voyqge. 

place where those edibles were waiting to be 
consumed. 

The house of the principal Indian in the vil- 
lage was hospitably open for our accommodation, 
and there the dinner-baskets were unpacked, 
and around the festive board our famished com- 
pany disposed themselves ; not too hungry and 
tired however, for much merriment during the 
progress of the meal. At its close graceful 
speeches were made relative to the ladies from 
the United States, whose visit to Luzon had oc- 
casioned this excursion ; and in their behalf Capt. 
Roslyn rose to make a polite reply. 

He gave our companions to understand that if 
the coming of said ladies to Luzon had given 
pleasure to any of them, it was in no wise beyond 
what they themselves experienced in making 
such delightful acquaintances. It takes Arthur 
to do up this sort of thing in style, and my 
opinion is he over-did it. I felt like sticking a 
pin into him, but unhappily the table was be- 
tween us ; for even if there was a fair amount of 




Kulu Girl. — Page 366. 



Excursion to Pagsanjan. 369 

truth, in his remarks, did I want those people to 
believe we thought so much of them that we 
should sail from Manila the next week with 
aching hearts ? 

After dinner came a stroll through the village, 
and into the venerable Catholic church (such a 
damaged set I don't think had ever honored Pag- 
sanjan before) ; then carriages were ready to take 
us to Santa Cruz, the town near which the 
" Dwende " lay at anchor. The wide, smooth 
road led through groves of tall cocoa palms and 
open paddy fields, and beyond them Majajay 
rose grandly in the twilight. That was a sober 
drive for me, because Mr. Searle was my vis-d-vis 
in the barouche, and we did not feel quite serene, 
or even cheerful. Good friends as we are, it 
seems to be a peculiarity of ours to aggravate 
each other every now and then, and during this 
day we had succeeded in doing it better (or 
worse) than ever before. 

My fault chiefly I knew it was, and felt re- 
morseful, for we owed this charming trip to the 



370 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

thoughtful kindness of Mr. Searle and his friend 
Carleton, and I had spoilt his enjoyment of it by 
my contrariness ! 

The pleasures of the day had been fatiguing, 
and when once more on board the steamer their 
effects began to appear in several of our number. 
First, Mr. Flanders grew pallid, and had to leave 
the dinner-table on account of faintness, but it 
would take something more than a slight indis- 
position to keep his tongue quiet, and on deck 
during the evening it made itself heard, perhaps 
a little more faintly than usual. Mr. Sydney's 
share of the Pagsanjan rapids had given him a 
violent chill, so that he shook from head to foot, 
and naturally could not be entertaining. Mr. 
Searle, enveloped in a huge blanket, with even 
his head buried in its folds, allowed it to emerge 
once while he favored us with a Spanish song, 
" Cual mariposa di rosa en rosa," after which his 
energies collapsed, and he retired from the scene. 
But my Amy's brilliancy, and that of a few 
others who vied with her in repartee, had not 



Excursion to Pagsanjan. 871 

been quenched by water or clouded by fatigue, 
and I sat on a cushion, resting my weary head 
in her lap, and listened to conversation that re- 
sembled an exhibition of fire-works, and some- 
times I had to start up and send off a feeble 
rocket on my own account when it became too 
inspiring for me to keep still. 

The next sunrise found us again in the familiar 
Pasig River, and at Santa Ana the " Dwencle's" 
pleasant party "broke up. It re-assembled in a 
few days to sit for a photograph, because every 
body wanted to perpetuate the excursion in some 
form, and we arranged ourselves on a green 
lawn, with banana leaves for a back-ground, 
while a Spanish artist fussed over us with his 
camera for the best part of one afternoon before 
he could produce a pictured group that satisfied 
the originals. 

Then came our sailing day ; it was yesterday, 
yet Luzon is hardly out of sight now, our pro- 
gress has been so slow. We were escorted from 
the Manila quay to a ship by a party of faithful 



372 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

friends who wished to see the last of us, they 
said, and then contradicted themselves by de- 
claring that they were sorry to do so. A steam 
launch conveyed us across the harbor to the ves- 
sel, where we all tried to be gay after our usual 
fashion until good-byes had to be said, and some 
of them were hard to say. It was proposed that 
all the Pagsanjan party, English, Irish, Scotch, 
American, and Russian, should meet in 1880 at 
Niagara Falls to renew their acquaintance, but 
that hope failed to cheer any body sufficiently, 
and as one after another descended the gangway, 
and looked up at us for a second farewell, we 
thought " it may be for years," but it is far more 
likely to "be forever." 

I trust that I am not growing sentimental, and 
for fear you may thus accuse me, I will close 
now with the words- that, looking up from my 
paper, I say to Luzon, sinking below the horizon, 
and to all those who remember us there, and 
have watched the " Lyra's " white sails go out 

to sea, " Adios ! adios ! " 

Marion. 



CHAPTER XIV. 



HOMEWARD BOUND. 




%f HE little settlement of Anjer nestles 

among the wide-spreading banyan trees 

on the southern side of Java. Its red roofed 

Dutch houses peep out from the dark foliage 

with suggestions of comfort to be enjoyed on 

their generous verandahs, where the blinds, 

shutting out the blazing sun, are drawn up at 

the day's close to admit the refreshing sea breeze. 

Mountains, green with never ending summer, 

form a background to the pretty picture of the 

town as seen from the water, and the eye follows 
373 



374 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

the curving white shore to the point of the island 
where a tall light-house stands to ensure the safe 
passage of vessels through the Straits of Suncla. 

On the afternoon of February 1st, 18 — , the 
good ship " Lyra " floated before Anjer, awaiting 
the return of her captain and passengers, who 
had gone ashore for their letters, and then, 
having driven to the lighthouse, were surveying 
sea and land from an altitude of three hundred 
feet. Looking downward from that dizzy height 
upon a garden of brilliant flowers directly below 
them ; and, beyond, on the land-ward side, over 
a verdant country, sloping upwards into moun- 
tains of velvet green, Amy and Marion stood 
entranced, taking a mental retrospect of nine 
months in the beautiful East, while below waited 
their noble vessel to bear them over the wide 
ocean to their far-off home. 

Amy, leaning on the iron railing, her brown 
eyes shining with deep happiness, sang softly the 
closing words of a grand oratorio, " We praise 
Thee now and evermore." 



Homeward Bound. 377 

With precious packages of letters the three 
voyagers left the shores of Java, as moonbeams 
were glistening on the waves over which their 
boat sped to the waiting ship, that, with her sails 
set, drifted slowly from them, as if impatient to 
begin the long homeward passage ; and as they 
climbed her gangway the girls said to each other, 
" When we go down these steps again it will be 
with a last leave-taking to the ' Lyra.' v ' 

For a hundred days, at least, their home was 
to be upon the deep, and that those days should 
be profitably spent was the determination of 
Capt. Roslyn's companions, and not only with 
regard to themselves. They meant that the 
voyage should be time improved to that young 
man as well. They knew he had the best of 
reasons for longing to reach American shores, 
where was a magnet toward which his heart 
turned as truly as the needle of his compass to 
the North, and those young females, with wis- 
dom beyond their years, determined upon a 
course of treatment for his case. With two ends 



878 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

in view — to keep him from thinking unduly 
about America, and themselves from indulging 
harmfully in Manila reminiscences, they set to 
work to improve their minds, and his, too. The 
captain had injured his eyes by taking lunar 
observations, and the days would have been very 
long to him had it not been for his indefatigable 
sister and cousin, who made him learn with the 
help of their eyes whatever they learned, and 
listen to whatever they wanted to read. Per- 
haps he might have chosen more romances than 
they considered profitable, but they always kept 
some light literature on hand to be taken like 
maple sugar after Peruvian bark, never treating 
him to it, however, until a good dose of deep 
reading and study had been faithfully adminis- 
tered. 

Captain Arthur could listen with equanimity 
to the "Life of Rufus Choate," and the "Me- 
moirs of Henry Crabb Robinson." His special 
dread was a book of general information that 



Homeward Bound. 379 

Marion insisted on his committing to memory 
with her as a mental tonic. 

"You can't feel romantic when I am cram- 
ming this book into both our heads at once," 
said Marion, in answer to his protestations, u and 
no more can I, so don't you say a word against 
it." 

In spite of. these afflicting circumstances Cap- 
tain Koslyn was not greatly to be pitied, for his 
girls had some compassion in their hearts, and 
amused him with zeal as great as that with 
which they gave him tonics. Exciting games of 
chess on deck shortened the afternoons so much 
that four bells (six o'clock) struck by the man 
at the wheel, and the prompt ringing of the tea- 
bell in the cabin often came as a surprise to the 
players. 

Lovely evenings those were in the Indian 
Ocean, famed for its sunsets, where the monarch 
of the day calls for admiring and oft-times awed 
attention as he sinks below the far blue water- 
line. One evening they must watch the snow- 



380 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

white cloud masses in the East glowing with re- 
flected crimson and then turning to gray ; at an 
other time they wonder at the deep, translucent 
blue, dotted with ashes of roses, while westward 
stretches a flaming sheet of red and gold, and 
when the sky has faded and moonlight whitens 
the sails, Amy brings her guitar, and with its 
vibrating cords the murmuring waves join in to 
follow her sweet voice. 

Or sometimes, instead of listening to ballads, 
they join in singing hymns, Mr. Duncan lending 
his deep bass to make up a quartette, whose 
music causes the sailors on the lower deck to 
tread softly and.. lower their tones. If a sudden 
shower disperses the singers, they gather around 
the cabin organ, and perhaps end the evening 
with a reading-circle under the swinging lamp. 

That no one need imagine these favored voy- 
agers to be wholly exempt from annoyance, it 
should be stated that their happy evenings ter- 
minated with a fierce warfare waged against 
cockroaches in their respective state-rooms. A 



Homeward Bound. 381 

cargo of sugar ensures the presence of these in- 
sects, who only keep quiet in the daytime to be 
livelier tormentors at night, and a black roach, 
measuring from one to two inches, who may 
spread his wings and fly at your head if the 
notion seizes him, is not the best company to in- 
duce sleep. 

Amy and Marion, in opposite rooms, are armed 
with slippers, which descend with resounding 
whacks upon the prey, and a shriek frequently 
testifies to the escape of some swift insect, while 
the captain dances about his little office, flapping 
a wet towel at one or two flying specimens. 
One night when they had all retired, Amy's 
door opened hastily, and she called "Marion, 
do come here — quick ! I've got a great worm 
with horns in my room." The intruder proved 
to be a centipede, but he was apparently without 
kith or kin on board the ship ; certainly none 
of his kind was seen again in the cabin. 

It will not do to omit mentioning the new pas- 
senger who sailed from Manila in the " Lyra," 



382 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

for she was considered a member of the family- 
party quite as much as Mr. Duncan. A small 
Spanish poodle, deaf, and rather stupid, yet 
very pretty, with her pathetic brown eyes and 
curly white hair, had been the parting gift of a 
friend, and Marion, who always denounced the 
folly of a woman's petting small dogs, could not 
resist the loving ways of this one, any more than 
the rest did who opened their hearts wide to little 
" Luna." When she was discovered one day 
with a family of four some dismay was expressed, 
and the question, " What can we do with so 
many dogs ? " was asked, but never answered in 
words. They were suffered to live, however, 
and when all were on their legs it was difficult 
to cross the ca,bin without stepping on a soft, 
woolly ball that squealed piteously at the atten- 
tion. The girls read, studied, and worked with 
Toddles and Poddies (named after the twins in 
" Our Mutual Friend "), and Fleecy and Posy 
actually swarming over them, and Luna gene- 
rally lying close to one of her friends with her 



Homeward Bound. 383 

nose on the book, or her paw on the sewing. 
Amy seemed to attract the quadrupeds more 
than any one ; they loved to gather round her, 
and nestle in the folds of her dress when she was 
sitting in a low easy chair, and it was a pretty 
sight when the row of sleeping poodles upon the 
hem of a certain blue dress, the captain's favorite, 
made it appear like a robe bordered with white 
fur. 

Calm days often tried the captain's patience, 
and he was almost ready to scold his girls for 
not being in so great a hurry as he was to get 
home ; but the springs of his good nature were 
too deep for him to be readily irritated, even by 
the flapping of the sails — that sound so trying 
to a sailor's nerves and temper — and any amuse- 
ment that they found to beguile these still times 
he would join in, whistling perse veringly for a 
breeze meanwhile. One afternoon, when the 
sea was like azure satin for smoothness and 
shining color, a fleet of nautili were noticed sail- 
ing along under the shadow of the vessel, and 



384 Amy and Mariorfs Voyage, 

designs quickly made upon them were only given 
up after long and patient fishing with a bucket 
and rope. Each tiny voyager in his fragile boat 
floated by the snare, and as the three heads 
bending over the rail were raised at last, a sud- 
den breeze ruffled the quiet deep, and bore to 
them something not quite briny — hardly an 
odor, but a suggestion of land. 

" Now, we smell Africa ! " cried Captain Ros- 
lyn, " and we are not far from it. Girls, take a 
long breath, and imagine forests over in the di- 
rection this wind comes from. The calm is over, 
and I'm a happy man again." 

It was over, indeed, for that time, and a gale 
in store for them. In two days the changeable 
ocean lifted up its waves and took on a wild ap- 
pearance, the heaving surface streaked all over 
with white, while great breakers came rolling up 
behind the stern, pitching the ship forward in 
the deep hollows, from which her bow rose tri- 
umphantly, shaking off the water from its figure- 
head, the nymph with a lyre in her arms. A 



Homeward Bound. £85 

strong, cold wind blew the spray like drifting 
snow in the faces of the girls as they stood by 
the tafrrail, finding it difficult to keep their bal- 
ance unless clinging with both arms, yet too 
much in the spirit of the scene to go below to 
safer and warmer quarters. The captain finally 
seized a rope, and passing it around their waists, 
bound them firmly to the railing. Finding them 
after dark sitting on the steps of the companion- 
way that led up on deck, and despatching enor- 
mous green pickles, he inquired what set their 
avaricious minds to covet the sailors' especial 
stores. 

" Won't the cabin pickles satisfy you, without 
stealing from the poor shell-backs?" he de- 
manded. 

" Oh, they can't compare with these ! " they 
cried. " Mr. Duncan got them for us, and on 
such nights as this we must have something 
sour." 

"Are my brave sailor girls sea-sick?" asked 
Captain Roslyn, suspiciously. 



386 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

"No, indeed; only 'kind o' funny,' as Nora 
the stewardess nsed to say ; and who wouldn't 
be on a ship acting as this one does to-night ! " 

The captain was forced to confess that even he 
was near that state of disturbance in which 
pickles are the first requirement, and he joined 
their feast on the steps. After this, when a gale 
came it was made an excuse to eat pickles, and 
the supply in the sailors' keg would soon have 
been low if fairer weather had not set in before 
they saw Cape of Good Hope light. 

On a pleasant Sunday morning Table Moun- 
tain appeared, and all day was plainly seen. 
No table could present a more level surface than 
that wide mountain top, as seen from a distance 
of several miles. " It would be nice to play 
croquet there if it were as flat and smooth as it 
looks," was the girls' comment upon it. 

The island of St. Helena was the next point of 
interest on the homeward voyage. Looming up 
from the horizon, the bare, rocky side by which 
the " Lyra " approached it gives the idea of a 



Homeward Bound. 387 

frowning fortress — a safe prison for the emperor 
who made Europe tremble. On that side there 
is one enormous square rock called " The Barn," 
more than a thousand feet high ; and far above 
it on green heights, is Longwood, where the cap- 
tive Napoleon looked out from among the trees 
upon the track of passing vessels. Rounding 
the corner of the " Barn," they saw Jamestown 
at the foot of towering hills, and a few vessels 
at anchor before it. Captain Roslyn set out in 
his boat to visit one of them, the English man- 
of-war " Rattlesnake," and returned after some 
hazard, caused by a rough sea and leaky boat, 
with London papers and a few cabbages and po- 
tatoes ; and then they sailed away from the his- 
toric island, leaving it bathed in a flood of after- 
noon sunlight. 

St. Helena passed, there was nothing for our 
voyagers to anticipate but the Highlands of 
Neversink, and they went on as before to 
improve the time, and enjoy each other's society. 
Services were held in the cabin every Sunday, 



388 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

and on Wednesday evenings the sailors' Bible 
class. Passengers were not admitted to the 
latter, but a deep interest in it, rather than idle 
curiosity, sometimes led them to look down 
through the skylight upon the cabin table, 
gathered around which the men pored over their 
Testaments, some whose knitted brows testified 
to the difficulty of their task in making out a 
few verses ; others, with earnest upturned faces, 
listened to their captain as he made the truths of 
God clear to them. Saturday evenings were fre- 
quently devoted to simple lectures upon such 
subjects as mariners must find it desirable to 
understand, though comparatively few have any 
but vague ideas of them — trade winds, for exam- 
ple, on one Saturday ; cyclones, the Gulf Stream, 
and astronomy on succeeding weeks, and all set 
forth so clearly that the youngest lad could not 
fail to understand what was said, while an 
occasional pleasantry of the captain's never failed 
to excite a broad grin upon the weather-beaten 
faces. Before the end of the voyage the series 



Homeward Bound. 389 

was closed by a temperance lecture, designed as 
a preparation for the temptations soon to assail 
them in, port. 

At last came a day, the one hundred and 
seventeenth of their passage, when the High- 
lands outside of New York harbor rose from the 
sea — a signal to the inmates of the "Lyra" 
that the end of their happy voyage drew near. 
Staten Island, covered with the fresh verdure of 
May, was a welcome sight to eyes long used 
only to the blue of water and sky; never had 
grass looked so green to them as that around the 
forts, and on all sides the land seemed rejoicing 
in Spring-time. What a change from ocean soli- 
tude was the busy life and stir of that wide 
harbor! The white pilot-boats, skimming by 
like fleet-winged birds, outward bound steamers 
crowded with passengers for Europe, puffing fer- 
ries, threading their way among the anchored or 
moving vessels, and beyond all, the great me- 
tropolis to which, nineteen months before, the 
girls had bidden farewell. 



390 Amy and Marion's Voyage. 

New York's tall spires were rosy with sunset 
as the "Lyra" moved slowly up to the dock. 
There Amy and Marion saw dear familiar faces 
watching the ship's approach with as much long- 
ing and eagerness as if she brought them the 
treasures of the East, and soon her cabins 
resounded with welcoming voices. 

So the girls' voyage ended, and they returned 
to home scenes and duties with a new song of 
gladness and praise in their hearts — a stronger 
desire to be useful and faithful in all future 
paths of life. 

Many a time they may realize that it is easier 
to go round the world than to go through it ; but 
believing the Divine Presence who led them so 
safely will not fail ' them, even unto the end of 
life's journe} r , they need fear nothing. May that 
. be true of them which was written of some dis- 
ciples long ago, who, having known that Presence 
with them on the deep — "when they had 
brought their ships to land, followed Him." 

THE END. 



ENTERPRISE. 

— «♦> — « 

We copy the following from The American Book- 
seller, New York : 

Few people can have failed to notice the great en- 
terprise, if they have not observed the scrupulous care 
with which Messrs. D. Lothrop & Co. have published 
a class of books adapted to the highest culture of the 
people. 

It is only ten years since they commenced the work 
of publishing, and their list now numbers more than 
six hundred volumes. 

We are glad to make record, that brave and persist- 
ent following of a high ideal has been successful. 

Messrs. D. Lothrop & Co. have given special atten-. 
tion to the publication of books for children and youths, 
rightly considering that in no department is the best t 
as regards literary excellence and purity of moral and 
religious reading, of so great importance. Yet the 
names of works by such authors as Austin Phelps, 
D.D., Francis Wayland, and Dr. Nehemiah Adams 
on their catalogue, will show that maturer readers- have 
not been uncared for. 

Of their work projected for the coming season, we 
have not room to speak in detail ; it will suffice for the 
present to say that it is wide in range, including sub- 
stantia} and elegantly illustrated books, all in the line 
of the practical and useful, and fresh in character and 
treatment. 

Their two juvenile magazines, Wide Awake and 
Babyland, are warmly welcomed in every part of the 
English-speaking world. 

We advise any of our readers who desire to know 
more about these publications, to send to D. Lothrop 
& Co., Boston, for an illustrated catalogue. 

All who visit their establishment, corner of Franklin 
and Hawley streets, will not only be courteously wel- 
comed and entertained, but will have the pleasure of 
seeing one of the most spacious and attractive book- 
stores in the country. 



SUGAR PLUMS. Poems by Ella Farman. Pic- 
tures by Miss C. A. Northam. Price, $i oo. D. Lothrop 
& Co., Boston. 

This collection of sweets, which the critics say is the 
best verse-book-published since " Lilliput Levee," will prob- 
ably prove to be one of the most popular Christmas-Tree 
books of the season. The poems are written from a child's 
own point-of-vievv, and some of them, like " Learning to 
Count," "Baby's Frights," " Pinkie-Winkie-Posie-Bell," 
will be perennial favorites in the nursery. While the book 
is sure to captivate the baby-memory, we will whisper to 
the mothers that there is not an idle "jingle" in the vol- 
ume, but that every verse will subtly give a refining and^ 
shaping touch to the little child-soul. The book is at- 
tractively bound, handsomely illustrated, and ought to be 
found in every Christmas Stocking in the land. 

Ask your Bookseller for it. 

POEMS IN COMPANY WITH CHILDREN. — By 
Mrs. S. M. B. Piatt. Illustrated. Price, $i 50. D. 
Lothrop & Co., Boston. 

A mother's book — one of those dainty, treasured vol- 
umes of poetry which naturally find a resting-place in the 
mother's work-basket, always at hand, to be taken up in a 
tender moment. It also contains many poems to be read 
aloud in the twilight hour when the children gather around 
mother's knee. Of its literary excellence it is needless to 
speak as Mrs. Piatt stands at the head of American women 
poets. 



Links in Rebecca's Life. By "Pansy." Price, $1.50. 
Boston: D. Lothrop & Co. 

"Pansy" has no rival as an author of the best class of 
Sunday-school books. Her " Ester Ried" and "Chautauqua 
Girls" series are models in that important line of literature. 
Her new book, " Links in Rebecca's Life," is worthy of a 
place in the same list. This book is an admirable one. Its 
tone is healthy and stimulating, without a trace of senti- 
mentalism or cant : and its characters are thoroughly natu- 
ral, such as any reader can recognize in the community in 
which be happens to live. The heroine, Rebecca, is intense- 
ly human, with a noble nature in which many weaknesses 
hide themselves and come often to the surface. But she is 
a Christian of the best type, and her aspirations and hard- 
fought battles inspire enthusiasm in a reader. The Com- 
mittee on International Lessons couldn't do a better thing 
than to circulate this book in every part of the land. It 
shows how the lessons may be made helpful in the daily 
life, and how the Old Testament may be taught with in- 
terest to an Infant School, or to men and women of every 
congregation. 

Echoing and Re-echoing. By Faye Huntington. Price 
$1.50. Boston: D. Lothrop & Co., publishers. 

It shows great ignorance of the Sunday-school literature 
of our day, when one calls it weak and namby-stuff, with an 
equal mixture of love-stories, and impossible adventures. 
The censure is just for a certain class of books, but a large 
library may be gathered of first-class works admirable alike 
in moral tone and in literary execution, books which every- 
body can read with delight and profit. "Echoing and Re- 
echoing" is a book of this sort, a well-told story, abounding 
with practical lessons, and inciting to a noble Christian life. 
The most intelligent opponent of religious novels will find 
his prejudices giving way in reading it, and a fastidious lit- 
erary reader will be thankful that children have such good 
books for moulding their literary tastes. 



THE CHAUTAUQUA GIRLS AT HOME.- 

By Pansy. Author of " Four Girls at Chautauqua,," &c. 
Boston: D. Lotheop & Co. Price, $1.50. 

The four brilliant young ladies, three from the highest 
social ranks, and one a teacher with infidel tendencies, who, 
having abandoned Newport and Saratoga for Chautauqua 
Lake and its Sunday-school Assembly, were there converted, 
and, having returned to their city homes, with their simple 
faith and joyous experience, they enter the First Church, 
seeking Christian help and a field for usefulness. Hesi- 
tatingly they enter the Sunday-school. Their presence there 
is almost resented by pastor and superintendent, who knew 
of their former lives of social vaporing, but did not know of 
their conversion. The rebuff does not wholly dishearten 
the young ladies. They go to the social meetings, where 
their persistent attendance brings about an explanation. 
They confess Christ, are received into the Church, enter 
into its work with zeal, and by their efforts and influence 
remodel the Sunday-school, stir up the social meetings, and 
help to bring about a great revival. 

These young ladies in their developing lives represent four 
classes of Christians, with which every pastor has to deal, 
and from studying these models pastors can learn helpful 
lessons, for they are here depicted with a masterly skill. 
The First Church is a representative dead Church. The de- 
cayed members and the cause of death are pointed out. The 
question of social amusements for Christians is discussed 
and answered from the Bible. The Sunday-school is dull 
and inefficiently managed. How to improve it and make it 
a success is indicated in a practical way. In short, the 
whole case of spiritually dead Churches is diagnosticated 
with the wisdom of a practical physician, and the revivify- 
ing remedies prescribed. Pastors, superintendents, teachers, 
Christians, young and old, should read this book. It con- 
tains help for all. "Pansy" has written nothing better 
— N. T. Christian Advocate. 



THE NAME ABOVE EVERY NAME. In sending forth a 

new and revised edition of this work the Publishers append a few of tt« 
many favorable notices which, from various sources, testify to its 
catholicity, and its adaptation to the wants of the disciples of our Lor** 
by whatever denominational name they may be called. 

The Name above Every Name, or, Devotional Meditations. 
With a text for every day in the year. By the Rev. Samuel Cutler. 

This little volume, which is a gem of typography, is just what it claims 
to be — "devotional and practical.* The pure gold of the gospel is here 
without the base alloy of man's wisdom. It accords with the teachings 
of the divine Spirit, and tends to exalt in the souls of men the Christ o\ 
God. 

The texts are fitly chosen, and the exquisite fragments of sacred poetry 
seem like jewels from a mine of inspiration. None can read this book 
devoutly without being benefited ; and all who read it in the spirit in which 
it appears to have been written, will lay down the volume with higher 
views of Christ's nature, and of His work, and reverently acknowledge that 
if His name be above every name in dignity and glory, it is also, as de- 
clared in the inspired canticle, "as ointment poured forth" in its heavenly 
fragrance . — Parish Visitor. 

From the Congregationist. 

The Name above Every Name, it bas a chapter for every 

week in the year, each chapter preceded with appropriate passages from 
Scripture and closing with a choice selection from devotional poetry. The 
whole book is eminently evangelical, and fitted to foster the growth of 
true and genuine piety in the soul. 

The Name above Every Name. By the Rev. Samuel 

Cutler. This has been carefully prepared by its author. The texts are 
for every day in the year, and have reference to the Scriptural titles of 
our Lord. The devotional and practical meditations are for every week in 
the year. The appendix contains five hundred and twenty five titles of 
our Lord, with the Scriptual reference; also a topical and alphabetical list 
of the titles, and of first lines of poetry with the author's name. 

The work is exceedingly valuable, not only for its meditations, but for 
the great amount of information which it contains. It is a book which 
the Christian would do well always to have at hand. Evagelical Knowl- 
edge Society. 
The volume is a precious vade tnecum, for all who love the "Name that 
is above every name"— Protestant Churchman. 
Plain Edition $1.00 Full Gilt $1.50 Red line Edition $2.00 

D. Lothrop & Co., Publishers, Boston. 



BOQKS -FOtt ^rOU^TG- HEBOES J^1<T1D BBAVE 

VIRGINIA. By W. H. G.Kingston. 16 mo. 

Illustrated . . . . . . . $i 25 

A stirring story of adventure upon sea and land. 

AFRICAN ADVENTURE AND ADVENT- 
URERS. By Rev. G. T. Day, D. D. 16 
mo. Illustrated . . . . - 1 50 

The stories of Speke, Grant, Baker, Livingstone and Stanley- 
are put into simple shape for the entertainment of young readers. 

NOBLE WORKERS. Edited by S. F. Smith, 

D. D. i6mo 1 50 

STORIES OF SUCCESS. Edited by S. F 

Smith, D. D. i6mo . . . . . 1 50 

Inspiring biographies and records which leave a most whole- 
some and enduring effect upon the reader. 

MYTHS AND HEROES. 16 mo. Illus- 
trated. Edited by S. F Smith, D. D . . 1 50 

KNIGHTS AND SEA KINGS. Edited by 

S. F. Smith, D. D. 12 mo. Illustrated . 1 50 

Two entertaining books, which will fasten forever the historical 
and geographical lessons of the school-room firmly in the stu- 
dent's mind. 

CHAPLIN'S LIFE OF BENJAMIN FRANK- 
LIN. i6mo. Illustrated . . . 1 50 

LIFE OF AMOS LAWRENCE. 121110. 111. 1 50 

Two biographies of perennial value. No worthier books were 
ever offered as holiday presents for our American young men. 

WALTER NEAL'S EXAMPLE. By Rev. 

Theron Brown. 16 mo. Illustrated . .125 

Walter Neal's Example is by Rev. Theron Brown, the editor of 
that very successful paper, The Youth! s Companion. The story 
is a touching one, and is in parts so vivid as to seem drawn from 
the life. — N. Y. Independent. 

TWO FORTUNE-SEEKERS. Stories by 
Rossiter Johnson, Louise Chandler Moulton, 
E. Stuart Phelps, Ella Farma?i, etc. Fully 
illustrated . . . . . . 1 50 



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.hH^" Y of congress 



021 650 950 A 



HHP 



